Author Topic: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!  (Read 5901 times)

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Offline DavePhipps

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!
« Reply #25 on: November 06, 2010, 12:30:14 PM »
Looking at these pics and thinking about my 500 makes me want to get the spare 550 bottom end and frankenbike them together. I shouldn't think pof these things. I'm too broke these days for another project.
BTW, the broken parts you have are unfortunately, very common on used and neglected old 500s
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90 FZR600 RA
74 CB550k
78 GL1000
72 CB500K

Offline brycegp

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. Answer: Snapped Lifter Rod
« Reply #26 on: November 06, 2010, 01:31:35 PM »
What i did to get mine out was remove right footpeg, kickstart lever, brake lever,remove all screws from clutch cover and remove the cover. Have something to catch the oil.

no problem

Remove the 5 bolts on the clutch pressure plate, remove plate

Uh...only 4 bolts...


I removed them and this is what I see...


This has no bolt holding on the clutch plate craddle...I assume I have remove the center ring clips to get it off...that just scares me.   i don't like getting this deep into the clutch...
« Last Edit: November 06, 2010, 01:34:25 PM by brycegp »
1971 CB750K/F - El Toro
El Toro Build Thread - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=73552.0

Offline dave500

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!
« Reply #27 on: November 06, 2010, 01:45:37 PM »
the broken clutch adjuster is number 22841-266-000,dont remove the circlip,just pull that centre thrust disc out and youll be able to push or pull the other half of the broken rod.

Offline brycegp

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!
« Reply #28 on: November 06, 2010, 01:57:30 PM »
dont remove the circlip,just pull that centre thrust disc out and youll be able to push or pull the other half of the broken rod.

ha...just realized that after this post. thanks tho...







rod is pretty chewed up after all...

the clutch plates seem good..all have good surface...

1971 CB750K/F - El Toro
El Toro Build Thread - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=73552.0

Offline DavePhipps

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!
« Reply #29 on: November 06, 2010, 02:00:34 PM »
Sorry about the 5 bolt thing. Was awake too late, and brain was not funtioning well.
Soes anyone know if those are the stock plates? I thought the stock ones looked a bit different.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2010, 02:03:04 PM by davephipps »
Bikes:
90 FZR600 RA
74 CB550k
78 GL1000
72 CB500K

Offline dave500

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!
« Reply #30 on: November 06, 2010, 11:06:36 PM »
that die cast zinc adjuster is the weak link,its still available though,the steel male thread isnt ,heres some photos,i have a few damaged ones,they wear and let the steel thread crank over and snap the fragile opening,ive broken one in two the same you have,my fault though, i was trying to improve the clutch and squeeze an extra plate into it,it assembled ok but as soon as i pulled the clutch it bottomed out early and i have strong hands and it went like an egg shell in half,another thing to check is the peaned or flared over crank arm on the steel thread,it can be a little sloppy and have some slack or backlash to it,if it has try and pean it over again with a big centre punch,i have two different types off peaning,one is a full circle the other looks to be a pair of flats.   thats surfers paradise in the background there,the Q1 building is the tall one on the right.,i live in great riding area.ive just noticed those dots on my left thumbnail are growing out,ive posted a couple of pics with my left thumb in them now and have noticed nature take its course,i forget how i caused that.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2010, 11:11:59 PM by dave500 »

Online bryanj

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!
« Reply #31 on: November 09, 2010, 07:03:33 AM »
Those plates with the angled slots are 500 original but can be replaced with 450 ones
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline brycegp

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - Still Problems
« Reply #32 on: November 13, 2010, 04:24:37 PM »
so I got my parts in and replaced:

1. Clutch Lifter Rod
2. Clutch Adjuster
3. Clutch Adjuster Seal
4. Kick Starter Shaft Seal
5. Clutch Cover (right side) Gasket

So I replaced all those parts. And started putting it back together.  New problems...

1.  When I was putting the Left Side Cover back on after fixing the clutch mechanism and lifter rod, the casing piece was very hard to sinch down.  I noticed that as I sinched down the cover the clutch on the other side was disengaging.  I  also realized that the cable had been adjusted some time ago to compensate for the wear on the old parts.  Now with new parts the clutch cable was far too tight...so I let out the adjuster nut as far as it would loosen.  And that made the cover go on.  But now that its all back together...the clutch slips under throttle.  How do I adjust it further?  Can I turn the Clutch Adjuster counter clockwise to let out some of the preload on the clutch lifter?  See pic...



2.  The right side casing piece is leaking oil now....even with the new gasket.   >:(  WTF?  I even torqued down the screws and still it leaks.  It didn't leak before and shouldn't leak NOW!!



Thoughts???
« Last Edit: November 13, 2010, 04:35:25 PM by brycegp »
1971 CB750K/F - El Toro
El Toro Build Thread - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=73552.0

Offline dave500

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!
« Reply #33 on: November 13, 2010, 04:47:00 PM »
remove all the slack from the cable,then remove all the slack at the adjuster,turn the adjuster in till it contacts internally,then back it out a bees dick and lock in,adjust the cable last,and use a bigger screw driver on the adjuster,youve already shagged it a little.

Online bryanj

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Re: Clutch "popped" - won't engage. - MORE UPDATE!!
« Reply #34 on: February 07, 2011, 09:00:03 PM »
If the casing is leaking with a new gasket chances are you missed a bit when cleaning the old gasket off OR you got a 550 gasket which is different and dont fit right
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!