Author Topic: voltage drop at coil  (Read 13324 times)

0 Members and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline Deltarider

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 8,121
  • ... but some animals are more equal than others.
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #25 on: December 24, 2009, 03:44:06 AM »
Quote
why did my xs650 start so much easier with h.o. coil vs the stock one? i changed nothing else.  i know i didn't gain power...but larger plug gap and easier starting were worth the mod.
You wouldn't have changed the sparkplugs for new ones, would you?
CB500K2-ED Excel black
"There is enough for everyone's need but not enough for anybody's greed."

Offline eurban

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,625
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #26 on: December 24, 2009, 06:38:48 AM »
Hey TT,
Just to be a devil's advocate here . . . .What is your voltage drop to the coils on one of your bikes with well maintained switchgear and connectors? Is it less than .5 volts?  If there is indeed a significant drop, what would you think would be the effect of bringing increased voltage to the stock coils?  Would the bike's performance (whether it be cold starting, gas mileage, high RPM power delivery etc etc) be affected?

Offline Spanner 1

  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 4,092
  • CB 750 K0 ( always thought it was a K1!) + CB750K8
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #27 on: December 24, 2009, 12:02:36 PM »
FYI, guys.... just tested it...... stock 40 yr. wiring, connections cleaned once ( a year ago). My 1 year old battery voltage today is 12.6V, then with ign. on and no N light ( bike in gear ), i.e. the coils as the only load, supplied by stock wiring, voltage across the battery read 12.2V.... perfectly acceptable IMO..... Merry Christmas, Y'all !
If your sure it's a carb problem; it's ignition,
If your sure it's an ignition problem; it's carbs....

Offline eurban

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,625
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #28 on: December 25, 2009, 04:52:14 AM »
I believe you are missing the point sir . . . Test the voltage at the coil's power feed right at the coil.  Now test the voltage at the battery.  The difference is the voltage lost due to resistance in the wiring, connectors and switches between the battery and coil.
« Last Edit: December 25, 2009, 04:55:27 AM by eurban »

Offline Spanner 1

  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 4,092
  • CB 750 K0 ( always thought it was a K1!) + CB750K8
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #29 on: December 25, 2009, 11:10:38 AM »
Not missing the point Eurban. If you put the neg. lead of the meter at the battery neg. post and the pos. lead at ( for instance ) the fuse or the + wire at the soleniod or at the ignition switch or as you suggest, the + wire right at the coils the result will be exactly the same...i.e. you are measuring the voltage drop caused by the coils being turned 'on' with the stock wiring, doesn't matter where you choose to put the + lead of the meter. To achieve what you want you would need to compare the reading like I did above against the reading with a new peice of wire run straight from the battery+ to the coil + junction. If that reading is higher, say 12.4 v then your wiring is causing a 0.2v drop.....seewhatimean ?
If your sure it's a carb problem; it's ignition,
If your sure it's an ignition problem; it's carbs....

Offline eurban

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,625
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #30 on: December 25, 2009, 07:40:58 PM »
Not missing the point Eurban. If you put the neg. lead of the meter at the battery neg. post and the pos. lead at ( for instance ) the fuse or the + wire at the soleniod or at the ignition switch or as you suggest, the + wire right at the coils the result will be exactly the same...i.e. you are measuring the voltage drop caused by the coils being turned 'on' with the stock wiring, doesn't matter where you choose to put the + lead of the meter. To achieve what you want you would need to compare the reading like I did above against the reading with a new peice of wire run straight from the battery+ to the coil + junction. If that reading is higher, say 12.4 v then your wiring is causing a 0.2v drop.....seewhatimean ?

No . . . With current flowing to the coils, you will get a lower voltage reading at the coil (engine running, + lead to coil's power supply, negative lead to ground) than if you took a voltage reading at the battery (same conditions as before except + lead to the battery's positive, and negative lead to ground)  The difference in the two readings is a result of the resistance in the supply line to the coils.  In general, if you were to test at various convenient "steps" (for instance fuse box, ignition switch, kill switch etc etc) in the supply path to the coil you would find lower and lower voltage readings the farther you traveled from the battery.  Go out and test it for yourself!

PS:  Perhaps the issue is that the coils need to be drawing current in order for the voltage drop to be observed.  I am not sure as to whether or not this requires that the motorcycle to be running or simply the ignition turned on. If there is no current there will be no voltage drop and by the same token, the more current being drawn the greater the voltage drop.  My EE wife tells me its Ohm's law . . .

Offline Tnutz

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 160
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #31 on: December 25, 2009, 07:47:08 PM »
Quote
It is the spark gap that determines the firing voltage.  They fire at the same voltage whether driven by H.O. coils or stock coils.

Lower input voltage also lowers secondary voltage.   If you use a ballast resistor and it drops the coils + terminal to 10volts it will make lower secondary voltage.  if a coil is rated 75,000 volts at 12 volts....it won't make that at 10 volts.  

I know coils are affected by saturation and other factors too...but don't tell me output voltage is strictly based on gap...

If you have a coil with a 3.5ohm primary and you need 4.5 ohms to work with your points you can add 1 ohm ballast resistor in series with the + and it will work fine.

Quote
The coils don't deteriorate with age.

insulation does with heat and will eventually break down causing breaks in the windings.

XS650's were notorious for stator windings failing due to poor varnish insulation used in the 70's.  Not abuse...heat and age combined with pooer technology.
« Last Edit: December 25, 2009, 07:53:01 PM by Tnutz »
2004 Ducati 999 mono posto.
-Full Termignoni exhaust
-Lots 'o' carbon fibre


1973 Honda cb500/4
-Motor Rebuild
-Has clubmans
-Paint is sub par
-

Offline Tnutz

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 160
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #32 on: December 25, 2009, 07:54:44 PM »
Quote
why did my xs650 start so much easier with h.o. coil vs the stock one? i changed nothing else.  i know i didn't gain power...but larger plug gap and easier starting were worth the mod.
You wouldn't have changed the sparkplugs for new ones, would you?

no.
2004 Ducati 999 mono posto.
-Full Termignoni exhaust
-Lots 'o' carbon fibre


1973 Honda cb500/4
-Motor Rebuild
-Has clubmans
-Paint is sub par
-

Offline Spanner 1

  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 4,092
  • CB 750 K0 ( always thought it was a K1!) + CB750K8
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #33 on: December 25, 2009, 08:47:17 PM »
You can't do the test with the engine running as the alternator now in charging mode will raise the voltage to overcome any wiring resistance and produce a larger voltage at the battery or coils or anywhere you care to test. Must be done with known battery voltage ( motor 'off' ) and against a straight wire to coils comparison....test anywhere along the circuit + wire of the circuit = same result....again the voltage drop on the battery caused by the ignition being turned on can be measured anywhere on the circuit, from right at the battery or at the coils if you want to take off your tank for no reason..!! Were talking voltage drop, not amp. draw on the circuit......amp draw will vary at different points of the circuit, largest at battery ( all the wiring included ), least if tested at the coils .....
If your sure it's a carb problem; it's ignition,
If your sure it's an ignition problem; it's carbs....

Offline Deltarider

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 8,121
  • ... but some animals are more equal than others.
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #34 on: December 26, 2009, 12:38:05 AM »
Quote
Quote
why did my xs650 start so much easier with h.o. coil vs the stock one? i changed nothing else.  i know i didn't gain power...but larger plug gap and easier starting were worth the mod.
You wouldn't have changed the sparkplugs for new ones, would you?


no.

There are not many who do not renew their plugs when they "upgrade" their ignition. Now we've found one and you even went through the trouble of widening the gaps of... your old plugs... You are one of a kind.
CB500K2-ED Excel black
"There is enough for everyone's need but not enough for anybody's greed."

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #35 on: December 26, 2009, 02:07:07 AM »
Hey TT,
Just to be a devil's advocate here . . . .What is your voltage drop to the coils on one of your bikes with well maintained switchgear and connectors? Is it less than .5 volts? 
Anything above a 0.5V drop indicates a problem in the wiring, connectors, switches, fuse terminals, etc.  I don't know what all my bikes are at as I haven't checked each one.  When something causes me to investigate, then I track down what is outside tolerance and fix it.  If I see that that there is general corrosion or resistive material, then that is corrected or switches rebuilt, in order to the restore the original low resistance.

If there is indeed a significant drop, what would you think would be the effect of bringing increased voltage to the stock coils?  Would the bike's performance (whether it be cold starting, gas mileage, high RPM power delivery etc etc) be affected?

The expected symptoms of low voltage to stock coils would manifest under several conditions.  Probably the most notable would be in cold conditions with a weak battery during electric start, with bike in need of a tune-up.  Large current draws lower the battery voltage, as does a cold battery, or a battery that's been sitting for a while (doing the self discharge thing).  Further conditions, would be old spark plugs that require more spark voltage to arc, old points that have resistive material on their contacts that prevent rapid coil charge, and/or leaky condensers that siphon power away from coil charge times.  If there are extra gaps in the HT circuit such as open plug cap resistors, this also raises the firing voltage requirement.
All these condition can cause the original coils to not develop enough voltage potential to fire a given spark plug.  All can be addressed without requiring a coil change, an additional relay, or High Output coils.

After the bike starts, the voltage loss is less critical as the alternator should begin to recharge the battery to higher levels and the 120 amp starter load is no longer dragging down the battery voltage. 





Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #36 on: December 26, 2009, 02:36:08 AM »
Here, I'll address the coil voltage drop measurement.
There are two ways to measure the voltage drop at the coils.  One is to compare the voltage reading at the battery terminals with the coil power wires.  This way is slightly less accurate, as the battery may be depleting and lowering the voltage during the time it takes to move the probes.  A better way is to place one voltmeter probe on the coil power wire and the other probe on the battery POS terminal.  This reading tells you the voltage lost between those two points, and the sum of all losses in the power path.  If you happen to insert an amp meter into that same circuit you can actually determine the resistance in that current path as well (using ohm's law).  This test should not be confused with the normal lowering of battery voltage when a load is placed upon it.  A battery load test expects a voltage drop, and a used up worn battery cannot maintain a usable voltage when placed under a significant load.

In the stock bike, the current to the coils is only part of the load and shares some connectors, fuse terminal, and switch losses with other using devices, such as headlight.
For any fixed resistance, the voltage lost through a connection is directly related to the current flowing through it.
If, for example, the key switch (red to black) had a resistance of .3Ω with 5 amps of current through it, it would lose 1.5v across it's terminals (and consume 7.5 watts in the process).  At 10 Amps, it would lose 3V across the red and black Key switch terminals, and consume 30 watts!!).  The significance is that every device attached to the black wires would see it's presented voltage vary according to load placed upon those black wires, or whether the headlights were on or not.  As you might also imagine, this example key switch would likely be heating itself toward destruction.

The same scenario with a Key switch that only presented 0.05Ω would lose 0.25V @ 5Amps and .5V @ 10 Amps.  So very small resistance changes in the power pathways can make a large difference in the voltage seen, not only by the coils, but all the electrical devices connected to those black wires.  This is why it is important to clean off 30 years of oxidation on bullet connectors or any other mechanical device in the path relied upon to forward current to the devices on the bike.


Edit: added some overlooked clarification.
« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 01:57:10 PM by TwoTired »
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline dave500

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 17,001
  • WHAT?no gravy?
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #37 on: December 26, 2009, 03:07:24 AM »
a fully charged battery should show 1.2 volts per cell,static voltage,,as soon as you load it with any amount of load or current ,it will drop,,depending on the charge and condition of the battery this will vary,,a buggered battery may read say  12.3,,but as soon as you twist the key it drops to 9,,then if you hit the starter button zero!!a brand new fully charged one may drop to say 11 on the key twist,and 9 on the start button and actually start the engine in a lively fashion,,this is all temperature variable and the age of the battery as well,,any lead acid batteries not in daily use or cycling ,,must be on a low amp charger ,battery keeper,or be charged from time to time,,,its a use it or lose it thing!!just because the static voltage shows say 12 volts (which is a flat battery)is no indication of its cranking ability,even when you buy a new wet cell ,,it should be charged a little.

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #38 on: December 26, 2009, 03:22:06 AM »
Quote
It is the spark gap that determines the firing voltage.  They fire at the same voltage whether driven by H.O. coils or stock coils.

Lower input voltage also lowers secondary voltage.   If you use a ballast resistor and it drops the coils + terminal to 10volts it will make lower secondary voltage.  if a coil is rated 75,000 volts at 12 volts....it won't make that at 10 volts.  

I know coils are affected by saturation and other factors too...but don't tell me output voltage is strictly based on gap...
You do seem to be confusing coil output voltage >potential< with the actual firing voltage.

Here are the basics of the how the Kettering system employed on the SOHC4, actually functions.
When the points close, current flows through the primary and a large electromagnetic field develops in and around the metal core of the coil.  At some point the core becomes saturated and the magnetic filed can develop no larger with the given voltage. This is the minimum required dwell time and is stored energy.  When the points open, the magnetic field collapses and as the collapsing lines of flux cross the many turns of the secondary (which also shares the metal core with the primary windings), a voltage is induced.  This voltage builds until it is large enough to ionize the atmosphere between the spark gaps of the plugs and turn it into conductive plasma.  The formation of the plasma bridge across the electrodes completes the coil output circuit allowing current flow.  This rapidly dumps the energy stored in the coils preventing any further voltage buildup.

While "H.O." coils may have the potential to induce higher voltages, unless the gap atmosphere or the gap distance between the electrodes changes to require a higher output voltage, no increase in actual firing voltage will occur with only a mere coil change.

Similarly stated, if both HO coils and stock coils are both fed 12V, neither will develop more spark voltage at the spark plug tips using the Kettering scheme, even though HO coils are capable making higher voltages, the spark event limits the voltage development to what is needed to jump the gap.

Although there are similarities between transformers and Kettering ignition coils, they are not used under the same types of stimulus and load configuration, therefore actual voltage multiplication behavior is not identical between the two devices.


Quote
The coils don't deteriorate with age.
insulation does with heat and will eventually break down causing breaks in the windings.

XS650's were notorious for stator windings failing due to poor varnish insulation used in the 70's.  Not abuse...heat and age combined with pooer technology.

I think both your assumptions are faulty and ill-advised.  In addition, they are based on an irrelevant comparison between two different devices.
You assume (without support) that the insulation used in the two devices as being the same without foundation.  

Copper windings will maintain properties both physical and electrical a very long time, so long as exposure to atmospheric contaminants is avoided.  First layer of protection is the job of the individual wire strand insulation.  There are many materials that can be used during manufacture to provide that insulation.  Acrylic, vinyl, varnish, Polyurethanes, epoxies, and myriad plastic compounds have been tried and employed.  The selection is tied to the manufacturing process, material cost, application technology, as well and breakdown voltage requirements.

I don't actually know what material was used inside the Honda coils.  (A likely candidate is Formvar.)  But, I do know that the selection is interactive with the mil diameter of the wire core.
Stator windings have comparatively large diameter wire in them, say 14 gauge or 64.1 mils.  Adding a wire insulation layer can increase the diameter to 66.6 mils or even 68.2 mils if it is heavy build, making the insulation account the 4 mils of wire diameter.
By contrast, size 36 magnet wire is only 5 mils core and may have only .7 mils insulation.

To achieve the desired thickness, it is common to use a different insulation material to achieve uniformity along with the design handling capabilities used with a more delicate wire core.
Wild assumptions that the insulation material is the same on both products seems highly contrived and speculative.
To me, this is like saying all drinking vessels must have the same container material, and thickness of a beer keg, because that is the only similar vessel you were able to observe.

Still, there is concern over the individual wire insulation breakdown characteristics.  Certainly, enough heat to melt the copper will damage the copper and the insulation.  End of coil.  However, I classify such heat as abuse.
Next, is enough heat the damage insulation without melting the copper.  Some may be familiar with Formvar, which was a common material used for coating magnet wire.  This was a "modified polyvinyl acetal resin".  Today the same thing is manufactured und the name of Vinylec.  This product lists its heat distortion temperature as 84-93C, which is about 195F.
Given the coils are mounted under the gas tank As opposed to inside a hot engine case of an XS650, I don’t see the coils reaching this or higher temps as routine.
I have no doubt that you can cook an air cooled engine with no airflow and have its heat radiate to the coils to over temp them.  But, is this not abuse?

The stock coils are encapsulated with yet another plastic coating, possibly epoxy.  The point of encapsulation is prevent damaging atmospheric contaminants, as well a destructive UV light from reaching the inner coil components, including the wire insulation coating.  Damage to the outer encapsulation I would also consider abuse.

The encapsulation coating can be damaged by UV in sunlight.  Since the stock location is under the tank out of sunlight, any owner that exposes them to sunlight would be abusing the coils.

I classify the HT leads as separate from the coil proper, even though they are cast into the coil’s encapsulation.   It is well known that the HT lead insulation (Vinyl based, I think) becomes hardened and brittle with age as this material has no protection from out-gassing/de-polymerization effects.
Old leads need be treated with care to avoid sharp bends which can lead to cracking.  The HT lead’s cut back stubs can be spliced onto new wires and the old coils will continue to function as they nearly always do.  But, if the technician is incapable or unwilling to do such work then the next viable alternative is to replace the entire coil/lead assembly.   And that is a matter of personal choice, rather than an unavoidable imperative.


Edited: For clarification and to address coil aging and various typos.




« Last Edit: December 28, 2009, 07:09:49 PM by TwoTired »
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #39 on: December 26, 2009, 03:27:32 AM »
a fully charged battery should show 1.2 volts per cell,static voltage,....
Whoops  Dyslexia?
6 cells @ 1.2V is only 7.2V.  And a fully charged, rested battery is 12.6V or 2.1V/cell.
But then, I'm nearly asleep...
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline dave500

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 17,001
  • WHAT?no gravy?
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #40 on: December 26, 2009, 04:06:15 AM »
yes two tired ,,im 2 tired ,,,good number crunching!!!now ,,lets say i had four beers ,,times 1 bourbon,divided by two more beers ,,oh my calculator batteries have gone flat!!(im an idiot!!why didnt i fathom that into the equation?)well spotted.hey mystic1,,if you turn on your key,,,,you are abusing the coils!!!!what is this ?? how can you abuse coils???been throwing them at barking dogs?,tried running them on a diesel truck??(where do you plug them in?)um dont boil them or deep fry them ,,thats bound to void your 35 year old warranty,,mine still work!!!im not satisfied untill mine fail!!!!mine havent reached their pinnacle!!!they still work..
« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 05:10:41 AM by dave500 »

Offline Deltarider

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 8,121
  • ... but some animals are more equal than others.
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #41 on: December 26, 2009, 05:44:57 AM »
Aren't we all sleepy these days? Actually a 6V batterie has 3 cells (6,6V in theory), a 12V 6 cells (13,2V). Hope to report soon about deterioration of stranded copper wire due to vibration.
CB500K2-ED Excel black
"There is enough for everyone's need but not enough for anybody's greed."

Offline mystic_1

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 6,071
  • 1970 CB750K
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #42 on: December 26, 2009, 06:27:24 AM »
yes two tired ,,im 2 tired ,,,good number crunching!!!now ,,lets say i had four beers ,,times 1 bourbon,divided by two more beers ,,oh my calculator batteries have gone flat!!(im an idiot!!why didnt i fathom that into the equation?)well spotted.hey mystic1,,if you turn on your key,,,,you are abusing the coils!!!!what is this ?? how can you abuse coils???been throwing them at barking dogs?,tried running them on a diesel truck??(where do you plug them in?)um dont boil them or deep fry them ,,thats bound to void your 35 year old warranty,,mine still work!!!im not satisfied untill mine fail!!!!mine havent reached their pinnacle!!!they still work..


Heh, I dunno, I was responding to TT's statement:

The coils don't deteriorate with age.  They can deteriorate with abuse.  The copper windings don't change properties or their physical relationship, and as long as the outer cover of the coils remains undamaged, the internal wire insulation doesn't change either.  The 40 year old coils are capable of delivering the same voltage as they did when new. 

I know of plenty of 40 year old coil sets that are still working just fine.  In fact the main point of failure on these coils is not the coils themselves at all but the high-tension spark plug leads.    The insulation fails, usually at the point where the leads exit the coils, and since the leads are molded into the coils you need to replace the whole coil pack (or splice in new ones which, while doable, seems dodgy).

I do wonder, however, what the average lifetime of the coils themselves are, under normal operating conditions.  It's gotta be pretty long but nothing lasts forever.

mystic_1
"A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for."
- John Augustus Shedd

My build thread:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=68952.0

Offline Yoshi823

  • Biker to the bone.
  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 205
  • Never too old to be a biker
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #43 on: December 26, 2009, 11:56:53 AM »
When I worked on radio and radar in the Navy we were taught all about copper losses and skin effect...the same applies in coils, so I googled it for you all rather than try and explain it...
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&channel=s&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-GB%3Aofficial&hs=lSI&q=copper+losses&btnG=Search&meta=&aq=f&oq=
Bikes...they're in the blood.

Yamaha 2001 R1
Yamaha 1990 FZR1000R EXUP
KTM 2004 450 EXC RFS
Honda 1997 XR400R
Honda 1988 CB125T2

http://www.cb750cafe.com/bikes.php?cat=3&id=67

Offline mystic_1

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 6,071
  • 1970 CB750K
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #44 on: December 26, 2009, 01:07:35 PM »
Very interesting, thanks!

mystic_1
"A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for."
- John Augustus Shedd

My build thread:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=68952.0

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #45 on: December 26, 2009, 01:41:50 PM »
Aren't we all sleepy these days? Actually a 6V batterie has 3 cells (6,6V in theory), a 12V 6 cells (13,2V). Hope to report soon about deterioration of stranded copper wire due to vibration.
Some of us may admit that Yuasa knows something about batteries.  From their FAQ:
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=14

"How do you determine whether a battery has been charged?   
 
The following characteristics will tell you if a battery has been properly charged:

1. The specific gravity of the acid is over 1.275 (conventional type batteries only).

2. Maximum voltage output across battery terminals can be maintained at constant level for two hours.

3.Open circuit voltage is stabilized @12.7v or higher @ 6.3v or higher for 6 volt batteries."

21.7 / 6 = 2.1166667 volts per cell.
Forgive me. I rounded down instead of up to get 12.6 V for a 12V starting battery that has be resting for 2 hours.

I do not count the surcharge of a freshly charged battery, immediately removed from a charger, to represent the true battery charge state.

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline The Mayor

  • My Gallery
  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 108
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #46 on: March 29, 2010, 12:30:55 PM »
Wow did this thread get heated! Sorry to hijack it; but I was wondering what TwoTired thought about the Hondaman Ignition? I'm considering one for my 350F and was looking at this thread earlier for some general coil insight...

Offline Nikkisixx

  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 839
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #47 on: March 29, 2010, 03:28:09 PM »
Wow did this thread get heated! Sorry to hijack it; but I was wondering what TwoTired thought about the Hondaman Ignition? I'm considering one for my 350F and was looking at this thread earlier for some general coil insight...

You may not get a reply, tt went awol:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67745.0

he went awol
It is a proven fact that modifying a SOHC Honda in any way will bring on the apocalypse.

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #48 on: March 29, 2010, 04:52:26 PM »
Wow did this thread get heated! Sorry to hijack it; but I was wondering what TwoTired thought about the Hondaman Ignition? I'm considering one for my 350F and was looking at this thread earlier for some general coil insight...

Hondaman ignition concept is brilliant!    I don't have any, though.  I'd have negotiate fleet rates!  Otherwise I'd have one grinning bike and the rest would glare at me.

Still, maybe someday....
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline bucky katt

  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 4,564
  • i am a pastafarian!
    • facebook
Re: voltage drop at coil
« Reply #49 on: March 29, 2010, 06:09:44 PM »
Wow did this thread get heated! Sorry to hijack it; but I was wondering what TwoTired thought about the Hondaman Ignition? I'm considering one for my 350F and was looking at this thread earlier for some general coil insight...

Hondaman ignition concept is brilliant!    I don't have any, though.  I'd have negotiate fleet rates!  Otherwise I'd have one grinning bike and the rest would glare at me.

Still, maybe someday....


best money i ever spent was my hondaman ignition!
Of all God's creatures there is only one that cannot be made the slave of the lash. That one is the cat. If man could be crossed with the cat it would improve man, but it would deteriorate the cat.
Mark Twain - Notebook, 1894