But if the dyna coils draw more then the stock coils is it possible that they could upset the charging system at low rpm? And if that is true then I would think taking them off the main circuit and running them directly off the battery would help. I totally agree on establishing a good baseline before making any changes- my bike has a brand new wiring loom and I replaced most of the old connectors- though I have not checked the regulator to see if it is working properly. I'll do that and then give it a try both ways and see if it makes a difference.
Power doesn't get any extra manufacture by changing the wire connections. The Alternator is power limited to about 210 watts at 5000 rpm and about 1/4 to 1/3 that when the alternator is at idle RPM. It makes no power when it is not spinning.
The alternator is the ONLY source of electrical power for the bike. The battery simply stores the power. If the bike pulls more power overall, the battery supplies it (depleting), whenever the alternator can't keep up.
However, the alternator takes power from the battery to make itself put out power. This voltage output is tapped off the key switch black wire distribution. If your black wire supply line from the battery loses battery voltage in transit, then yes, it makes the alt produce less power (even while telling it to make more). However, so will turning on the headlight or other electrical devices using the Black wire supply distribution as its power source. Bypassing coil power around this source won't fix the problem (voltage loss on Black wire distribution), it sidesteps it (like a band aid doesn't fix a wound, only hides it from sight). The original problem (Black wire distribution voltage loss) will get progressively worse (deteriorated connectors, fuse contacts, switch contacts, etc.), and your charging system will again make less power, the lights will be dimmer, and the battery will charge at lower average levels, until one of the failing connections gets bad enough to go poof (5 PM, in the rain, on a busy street, or anywhere that will make you the most miserable).
Anyway, the Black wire voltage loss wasn't a problem when the bike was new. If it loses voltage now, it points directly to a failure mechanism. A coil bypass relay simply ignores the failed components, leaving them to fester into larger ones later on.
If your gas tank rusts through, do you fix (or replace) it, or add another one to the bike that doesn't leak, on top of the failed one?
The regulator tries to limit (regulate) battery voltage, keeping it charged, when alternator power is available to do so. When the power isn't available, the regulator tells the alternator to run flat out. Putzing about with the "regulator" doesn't make power availability higher. Its function is to limit the power output of the alternator when the bike's battery is full (14.5V) and make the alternator back off (when spinning 5000 RPM). Pretty much anything below 2000RPM and the alternator should be "all it can be", particularly if you have increased electrical loads on the bike. The "Vreg" adjustment isn't a power control, it is a voltage trip point adjust to monitor battery state and protect it from overcharge conditions.
Relays just add unnecessary complexity. It is also likely undocumented. So, in 5 years, someone will look at the mod (maybe even you) and look at the Honda wire diagram, and say WTF is this kludge?
