Author Topic: cb350f running issues + pics (new video on page 5) (Read 17107 times)

fletcha221 · « **Reply #75 on:** February 02, 2010, 06:04:00 AM »

yep........I bought my bike for $150.......so far I've spent $3890. I think I might be able to get $2000 if I ever sell it.

davis96 · « **Reply #76 on:** February 02, 2010, 12:29:34 PM »

Aint that how it goes... Cars, bikes, women.. Pay out the ass to get 'em where you want 'em.. And if you decide to get rid of 'em, you lose money there, too

davis96 · « **Reply #77 on:** February 02, 2010, 12:37:49 PM »

Ok so got the carbs off, switched thE bowls back, and unstuck any stuck floats. But the bike runs like #$%* now (misfires, need full choke to run etc)... When the bike ran pretty good before i cleaned the carbs, cylinder 3 slide was a good bit higher than the others... Do you think i just need to sync the carbs or could i have screwed somejing up?? Help!

fletcha221 · « **Reply #78 on:** February 02, 2010, 01:29:14 PM »

hahaha yea dude, you need to bench sync them! 1/8 drill bit clearence on the intake side. Make sure the spark wires are on firmly. If you need full choke either you petcock is off? or your floats are set too low. Got enough gas? I mean, these are simple things, but I know ive been low on gas and the damn thing wouldnt keep a prime.

fletcha221 · « **Reply #79 on:** February 02, 2010, 01:33:39 PM »

the more I think about it....if you havent changed anything on the ignition and spark side, it sounds like you dont have enough fuel in the bowls?? is she coughing? Thats a tell tale sign that shes starving for fuel.

davis96 · « **Reply #80 on:** February 02, 2010, 01:37:43 PM »

Floats are set to factory specs and i did bench sync using a high E guitar string ( Even smaller than 1/8th inch drill bit)... I did it on the exhaust side though i think (side without butterfly valves)... But all the slides are the same height, that im sure of.

I should mention that after trying to get it going, the battry read only 11 volts (new battery, Holds a charge just fine)

fletcha221 · « **Reply #81 on:** February 02, 2010, 01:55:23 PM »

Sync'd on the wrong side homie. I did the same thing, and the idle was way way way high. Maybe too much air and not enough fuel. Does she still mis-fire when you slowly give it some throttle? You didnt touch the air screws, right? Did you adjust the flux capacitor? or ahhhhhhhhF*ck THESE CARBS.

davis96 · « **Reply #82 on:** February 02, 2010, 02:08:15 PM »

Damn. Nah i didnt mess with the air screw (brass flathead screws on the side, right?) if i synced on the wrong side, and the exhaust side is at less than an eitght inch, where would that put My intake side? So when youre idling, the intake side of your slide is at approx 1/8th of an inch?

HondanutRider · « **Reply #83 on:** February 02, 2010, 04:04:18 PM »

Davis,

Don't get discouraged and don't get too focused on one thing (i.e. the carbs). What you've done already to them is all sounding good. As far as those airscrews just make sure they all are set the same initially - 3/4 turn out from a gentle bottom. (And, I assume you had them out and cleaned when you were doing the carbs.)

Now for some other things to check - if you haven't already: The tappets need to be set according to spec, and that's not too hard to do. Also, check the timing, which you can do without a strobe light and without the motor running. (Just need a multimeter or a lamp with battery to check their setting.) Doing those items should eliminate further run problems.

davis96 · « **Reply #84 on:** February 02, 2010, 04:12:16 PM »

Quote from: HondanutRider on February 02, 2010, 04:04:18 PM

Davis,

Don't get discouraged and don't get too focused on one thing (i.e. the carbs). What you've done already to them is all sounding good. As far as those airscrews just make sure they all are set the same initially - 3/4 turn out from a gentle bottom. (And, I assume you had them out and cleaned when you were doing the carbs.)

Now for some other things to check - if you haven't already: The tappets need to be set according to spec, and that's not too hard to do. Also, check the timing, which you can do without a strobe light and without the motor running. (Just need a multimeter or a lamp with battery to check their setting.) Doing those items should eliminate further run problems.

Thanks, its so damn easy to get angry at the old girl, and in a fit of fed up rage, I may or may not have took a bunch of #$%* apart in the back so I could remove the airbox and intake without removing the carbs themselves to re-benchsync them (I synched them on the exhaust side, which Ive been informed is not correct). Now, everyone goes "wtf are you doing you bum, removing the carbs isnt that hard!"... I knoww, I was just fed up with them, and now that ive got them to a point where theyre stable, everythings hooked up, and there are no leaks, I figure why mess with it now..

PLUS I've been under the suspicion that I may have a charging issue of some kind, so now is a great opportunity to pull the electrics and check connections, continuity, etc. before the full tune-up tomorrow.

I'll let you know how it goes!

davis96 · « **Reply #85 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:06:57 PM »

So I check the intake side of my carbs and in all actuality they are pretty much exactly 1/8th of an inch each, and since theyve already been synched (be it through the wrong side).. my bench sycnc job must not be the culprit

... im going over the electrical systems now

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #86 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:15:08 PM »

Quote from: davis96 on February 02, 2010, 05:06:57 PM

So I check the intake side of my carbs and in all actuality they are pretty much exactly 1/8th of an inch each, and since theyve already been synched (be it through the wrong side).. my bench sycnc job must not be the culprit ... im going over the electrical systems now

Did you look at the things I mentioned earlier in the thread?

davis96 · « **Reply #87 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:59:01 PM »

Quote from: fmctm1sw on February 02, 2010, 05:15:08 PM

Quote from: davis96 on February 02, 2010, 05:06:57 PM
So I check the intake side of my carbs and in all actuality they are pretty much exactly 1/8th of an inch each, and since theyve already been synched (be it through the wrong side).. my bench sycnc job must not be the culprit ... im going over the electrical systems now

Did you look at the things I mentioned earlier in the thread?

I havent yet, but I have been just trying to get a smooth idle so i can try those suggestions. Do I need a timing light (will be officially the 1000000th 'cheap' part/tool i've bought trying to get this thing back in shape) I am in the process of a tune up as we speak so ill let you know the result

davis96 · « **Reply #88 on:** February 02, 2010, 06:46:29 PM »

Quote from: HondanutRider on February 02, 2010, 04:04:18 PM

Davis,

Don't get discouraged and don't get too focused on one thing (i.e. the carbs). What you've done already to them is all sounding good. As far as those airscrews just make sure they all are set the same initially - 3/4 turn out from a gentle bottom. (And, I assume you had them out and cleaned when you were doing the carbs.)

Now for some other things to check - if you haven't already: The tappets need to be set according to spec, and that's not too hard to do. Also, check the timing, which you can do without a strobe light and without the motor running. (Just need a multimeter or a lamp with battery to check their setting.) Doing those items should eliminate further run problems.

Ok I am a total amature here, but do you have a simplified set of instructions for adjusting tappet clearance? I have a shop manual but got stuck at step 3, how am I supposed to know if cylinder 1 is at TDC just by looking through the tappet hole?

HondanutRider · « **Reply #89 on:** February 03, 2010, 05:47:48 AM »

To know TDC position you really have to take off the timing/point cover on the right side and rotate to the marks indicated on it. Its a lot easier to rotate and hold at TDC if the plugs are out and no compression is generated in the cylinders. Don't know what manual you are using, but the official Honda manual has fairly explicit and accurate description of these procedures.

For setting/checking the timing, you really don't need a timing/strobe light, nor do you need to have the motor running. There are timing marks under the points cover (where the TDC marks are) that are set with the points just opening as the crank is rotated. I find that an Ohm meter (those test meter boxes that are an indispensable tool in many situations where-ever electricity is involved) is good to hook across the points contacts (with ground) and see the slight increase in resistance when the points start to open. That point should be just as the timing "F" mark (not the "T" TDC mark) crosses the indicator for the appropriate point set as the crank is slowly rotated in the correct direction (i.e. not backwards).

davis96 · « **Reply #90 on:** February 03, 2010, 08:36:53 AM »

Quote from: HondanutRider on February 03, 2010, 05:47:48 AM

To know TDC position you really have to take off the timing/point cover on the right side and rotate to the marks indicated on it. Its a lot easier to rotate and hold at TDC if the plugs are out and no compression is generated in the cylinders. Don't know what manual you are using, but the official Honda manual has fairly explicit and accurate description of these procedures.

For setting/checking the timing, you really don't need a timing/strobe light, nor do you need to have the motor running. There are timing marks under the points cover (where the TDC marks are) that are set with the points just opening as the crank is rotated. I find that an Ohm meter (those test meter boxes that are an indispensable tool in many situations where-ever electricity is involved) is good to hook across the points contacts (with ground) and see the slight increase in resistance when the points start to open. That point should be just as the timing "F" mark (not the "T" TDC mark) crosses the indicator for the appropriate point set as the crank is slowly rotated in the correct direction (i.e. not backwards).

Ok yea, I mean I do have the Honda shop manual, but when I line up the T 1,4 marks, I just need to be able to determine if 1 is at TDC (as opposed to 4), same with 2 and 3

flybox1 · « **Reply #91 on:** February 03, 2010, 09:25:47 AM »

if all your tappet covers are off, it should be easy to see if #1 is TDC, compared to the position of #4. if its not, rotate the "special nut" 1 full turn clockwise stopping at "T" 1,4 to get #1 at TDC, and do the valve adjustments for 1 int & exh, 2 exh, 3 intake. then another full rotation clockwise back to T1,4 to get #4 at TDC, and do the others (2 int, 3 exh, 4 int & Exh).

davis96 · « **Reply #92 on:** February 03, 2010, 10:01:40 AM »

Quote from: flybox1 on February 03, 2010, 09:25:47 AM

if all your tappet covers are off, it should be easy to see if #1 is TDC, compared to the position of #4. if its not, rotate the "special nut" 1 full turn clockwise stopping at "T" 1,4 to get #1 at TDC, and do the valve adjustments for 1 int & exh, 2 exh, 3 intake. then another full rotation clockwise back to T1,4 to get #4 at TDC, and do the others (2 int, 3 exh, 4 int & Exh).

Yea thats what the manual says to do, but I dont know, its just readily apparent to me if 1 is at TDC. I mean I can see them moving up and down, but then i cant look to make sure the T mark is lined up, by the time I look back up through the tappet holes, they all look basically the same to me. What should I specifically be looking for once I get the T marks lined up?

davis96 · « **Reply #93 on:** February 03, 2010, 12:11:53 PM »

I think i may have found the issue guys. My coils tested fine, but when i tested tested the continuity of my spark plug caps, #1 and 4 gave a reading of around 19 (on the 20k ohm setting), and #2 and 3 didnt even register, displaying a read of "1"...

Think this could be it?

HondanutRider · « **Reply #94 on:** February 03, 2010, 01:06:52 PM »

With the T1,4 mark lined-up, either both the tappets for #1 will be loose (as there should be play in their adjustment) that you can feel by wiggling them, or else the #4 tappets will be loose. That will indicate which one (the loose one) is at TDC on the compression stroke. The other one (tight) will also be at TDC, but it will be on its exhaust cycle.

You may have found a problem with your caps, but you can confirm by putting a plug into the cap and hold it (the thread of the plug) against the metal of the engine while turning over a few times with the starter. In dim light (or darkness) you should be able to clearly see the plug sparking - if not, then you have a problem with that cap (or a bad plug...try it in another cap that you believe is good to confirm). You might want to wear gloves or be very careful what/where you are holding, otherwise you might be in for some enlightenment of another kind.

socalenduro · « **Reply #95 on:** February 03, 2010, 02:22:51 PM »

watching and learning.....

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #96 on:** February 03, 2010, 06:12:35 PM »

look around for my coil mod post and spark photos... some spark examples there...

davis96 · « **Reply #97 on:** February 03, 2010, 07:04:06 PM »

ookkk I bought 4 new plug covers at a local motorcycle shop and got everything buttoned up and was about to start it when I realized that the tappet covers were only on hand tight from the night before when I was checking tappet clearance... so, remembering how incredibly hard they were to remove (took a LOT of force), I began tightening back up when one of them sheared off, leaving the threads behind

.. SOOO now I'm trying to get my hands on a new one. I send an inquiry to my local Honda dealer, I'm sure they'll be able to order one for me.. but while I'm here, does anyone have an extra one they can throw in an envelope and mail to me out of good will for a poor college student?

.. if not, no biggy, just thought I'd check..

camelman · « **Reply #98 on:** February 03, 2010, 10:41:36 PM »

Wow, you just aren't having much luck. I have an extra tappet cover. Call me with your addy. PM sent.

Camelman

davis96 · « **Reply #99 on:** February 03, 2010, 10:54:57 PM »

Quote from: camelman on February 03, 2010, 10:41:36 PM

Wow, you just aren't having much luck. I have an extra tappet cover. Call me with your addy. PM sent.

Camelman

Thanks Camelman,
I called and left a message with my address. I appreciate it!

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Author Topic: cb350f running issues + pics (new video on page 5) (Read 17107 times)