Topic: What is the right order for Tune Ups?

[750goes]

Engine out, would like to do or check as many adjustments as necessary while being at work height for my poor back.
cb750 k6.. have read the manual
History - bike resurrected from the dead
New Plugs, cleaned carbies, clean fuel, new battery (no oil change yet)
Set points, set static timing, start the beast - she runs she runs..albeit a little rough..
brief ride indicates its got plenty left in it...smoke from breather - contaminated oil/fuel mix/ routing of breather pipe
Decision - motor and frame are less than desirable in present condition, and other items badly need work, chain,sprockets, wiring etc etc. Pull motor and do a total rebuld or give it a good clean up and service and turn it into a daily ride...

Decision made - fix er up and turn into daily ride...... now comes the pointy bit...

My order
1. Cam chain adjustment
2. Valve adjustment (OHC covers off)
3. Points opening
4. points timing (static) but check with timing light after reinstallation for further adjustment
5. drop sump, flush out oil strainer, check oil pump operation -reinstall pump, sump etc
6. reinstall engine and go from there

your thoughts and comments greatly appreciated

[Bob Wessner]

5. drop sump, flush out oil strainer, check oil pump operation -reinstall pump, sump etc

The only thought I have on this item is, do you know if in the past the engine was prone to wet sumping? Mine was. I pulled the oil pump and gave everything a good cleaning. One thing mentioned here by others (after I had reassembled  ) was to de-glaze the check valve and cylinder. The cleaning helped my wet sumping some, but have often wondered if de-glazing the piston, etc. would have cured it.

[750goes]

Bob,

When I drained the oil tank - about a cupful out
when i drained the sump - about 3 plus litres..so a wet sump is definitely up there on things to look at..
I am definietly going to give the oil pump a thorough cleaning, check tolerances, and as you suggest- deglaze check/valve and components at the same time..

thanks for input and advice

[toycollector10]

Bob,

I'm no mechanic..how much is involved in getting the oil pump and scavenge pump out? I want to clean the gauze on the bottom in case detergent oil has been used and it's cleaned all the oilways and left the muck blocking the filter.

I have lots of tools and am sure I can do this limited sort of job, are there any pitfalls or tips you can advise me of?

Wet sumping? is that where the oil pump is not doing it's job properly and the oil pools?

Basically, I want to be sure oil is flowing properly as it's probably the most important thing.

[750goes]

Toy Collector,
Oil pump won't be a big problem 4 me, the motor is already out,, just remove the sump, and take it from there...
wet sump condition appears to be caused by pump not sealing correctly after engine shut down,, whether due to a clogged or stuffed ball bearing on the end of a spring thingey (according to the manual)....will be looking into mine in a few weeks, after I get lots more suggestions from this post........

[Bob Wessner]

how much is involved in getting the oil pump and scavenge pump out?

It's not difficult, even with the engine still in the frame (mine was). You're just working down low as apposed to at a nice comfortable height. Just get your self a new gasket in advance and when removing the bolts, note which ones are from what position around the perimeter as they they vary in length because of how much material they pass through. As I recall, my check valve was a cylindrical piston affair with a rubber tip. I found nothing really wrong, no debris or anything. The part isn't available any more so, you pretty much have to work with what you have.

[kaysystems]

how much is involved in getting the oil pump and scavenge pump out?

It's not difficult, even with the engine still in the frame (mine was). You're just working down low as apposed to at a nice comfortable height. Just get your self a new gasket in advance and when removing the bolts, note which ones are from what position around the perimeter as they they vary in length because of how much material they pass through. As I recall, my check valve was a cylindrical piston affair with a rubber tip. I found nothing really wrong, no debris or anything. The part isn't available any more so, you pretty much have to work with what you have.

The rubber tip (seal) for the anti-return valve is still listed here

http://www.cmsnl.com/

That's where mine came from. Will install it over the winter.

David

[Bob Wessner]

kaysystems,

Hunted through all the parts for K0, never found it. 

[kaysystems]

It's called a 'seal-oil leak stopper

15166-300-000

Item 11, if it's the part we are talking about. Service Honda lists it, but don't know if they have any in stock

David

[Bob Wessner]

Yup, got the parts list and no, couldn't get it through the dealer and ServiceHonda doesn't have it either so I was interested in your reference to CMS, couldn't locate it there either. Maybe I just need to look there again.

[toycollector10]

Thanks guys, I'm going to have to give this some thought and research...

[kaysystems]

Yup, got the parts list and no, couldn't get it through the dealer and ServiceHonda doesn't have it either so I was interested in your reference to CMS, couldn't locate it there either. Maybe I just need to look there again.

Looks like they don't have any left either.

Western Hills Honda. Bought some K0 needle & jet kits from them. You will have to send them as email.

David