Topic: Electric start quit

[lowmileage]

Hi buddies,  

I got my bike running last year after a 20+ year storage.  After I preped it by going thru the electrics, new plugs, etc, etc., I went to electric start it.  It was spinning just fine   .  I repeated the procedure a few times, letting it rest between tries in the hope of it firing up.  Then   the starter stopped  .  I pulled the starter and while it was out, put in new brushes (since I had them) even thought the originals were well within limits.  Put it back and the same result - no electric start.  I did though, finally kick started it.  The solonoid "clicks" when the starter button is depressed so I assume that is OK.  Any "hints" about what could have happened since I'm not exactly an electronic wiz?  Maybe if someone could give me a "kick start" on this problem I can get it working (I know, bad joke).

Thanks, Fred  

ps.  Battery is new and fully charged

[mystic_1]

Got a voltmeter?  Test for voltage at the "in" terminal on the solenoid (big wires) and then the "out" terminal while pressing the start button.  If you see 12V there, check for voltage at the starter's main terminal while pressing the start button.

If you don't have a voltmeter, you can wire up a spare taillight bulb as a test light.

After sitting that long, there's a good chance that the wiring terminals are corroded.  Clean them with a wire brush.  Also clean the battery terminals.

mystic_1

[lowmileage]

Got a voltmeter?  Test for voltage at the "in" terminal on the solenoid (big wires) and then the "out" terminal while pressing the start button.  If you see 12V there, check for voltage at the starter's main terminal while pressing the start button.

If you don't have a voltmeter, you can wire up a spare taillight bulb as a test light.

After sitting that long, there's a good chance that the wiring terminals are corroded.  Clean them with a wire brush.  Also clean the battery terminals.

mystic_1

Thanks Mystic,
Sure do have a voltmeter.  I assume the "starter's main terminal" is the end of the heavy wire running from the starter?  I did clean off all the terminals but I could have missed one (or 2).  I'm just suprised it was cranking and then suddenly stopped - but I guess it could quit anytime.  Thanks again and will do these tests tonight.
Fred

[strynboen]

even you got 12 volt on both terminals,,,it is not shure it can take amps inof,
pull starter and set it direkt to battery..or try to direkt start on soloniod terminals

[mystic_1]

That's a very good point Strynboen.  Sometimes dirty terminals can pass low currents but not high currents.


lowmileage,

Yup, I meant the large main cable running to the starter from the solenoid.

Pulling out the starter and testing it directly off the battery as Strynboen suggests is a good idea too, that'll tell you for sure if the problem is the starter or the wiring, but that involves pulling out the starter.  Your call on which approach to take.

Another possible source of problems like this is the internals of the solenoid itself.  Inside, there's a plate that gets pulled into contact with the terminals of the main cables when you energize the solenoid, this bar can become corroded or scorched and stop passing power.  You can test for this by testing resistance across the main terminals (big wires) when you press the start button, resistance should be very low while you're pressing the button.

mystic_1

[scottly]

That's a very good point Strynboen.  Sometimes dirty terminals can pass low currents but not high currents.


lowmileage,

Yup, I meant the large main cable running to the starter from the solenoid.

Pulling out the starter and testing it directly off the battery as Strynboen suggests is a good idea too, that'll tell you for sure if the problem is the starter or the wiring, but that involves pulling out the starter.  Your call on which approach to take.

Another possible source of problems like this is the internals of the solenoid itself.  Inside, there's a plate that gets pulled into contact with the terminals of the main cables when you energize the solenoid, this bar can become corroded or scorched and stop passing power.  You can test for this by testing resistance across the main terminals (big wires) when you press the start button, resistance should be very low while you're pressing the button.

mystic_1

Do not try to measure the resistance of a circuit with voltage applied; you will get erroneous readings at best, and may damage your meter at the worst. I ruined a good meter once! Measure the voltage in and out of the solenoid to determine the voltage drop, like mystic first suggested. 

[mystic_1]

Yup, I should have said "disconnect the big cable that leads from the solenoid to the starter before measuring resistance".

But yes, voltage in versus voltage out should pretty much tell you what's going on inside the solenoid.

mystic_1

[lowmileage]

  Thanks again and will do these tests tonight.

[/quote]

Sorry - didn't get to it last night but will over the weekend.

[lowmileage]

Ok, I'm getting full juice at the "in" solonoid hookup wire but only 4.5 volts at the output (when the starter button is pushed).  I took the solonoid apart and cleaned the internal brass "bottom" piece top and the internal brass "top" piece bottom - there was carbon spotting.  Put it back on and got the same result.  Is this a simple matter of just now replacing the solonoid or could something else be the cause of the low output on the "solonoid out" connection?    

[strynboen]

try to mess on battery at same time ,,if battery alså falls to lov volt,,its dead battery..but klean terminals on battery first

[lowmileage]

Battery is new last summer.  Has 14 volt output- which is the voltage on the solonoid "in" terminal.

[strynboen]

yes but try to mess  the battery at same time at solonid is aktiv,,and have light on..and see hvat happend,,lights must not get lover??? just try..

[scottly]

Ok, I'm getting full juice at the "in" solonoid hookup wire but only 4.5 volts at the output (when the starter button is pushed).  I took the solonoid apart and cleaned the internal brass "bottom" piece top and the internal brass "top" piece bottom - there was carbon spotting.  Put it back on and got the same result.  Is this a simple matter of just now replacing the solonoid or could something else be the cause of the low output on the "solonoid out" connection?    

(I'm assuming you mean full juice at the in lead with the starter button pushed)
edit: Come to think of it, if you have "full juice" going in, and 4.5V out, it's your solenoid. You may want to open it up again: make sure the plunger is free to move up and down. You should be able to pull the lower plate up, and it should return freely by the spring. Also, look for steps worn in all the contacts. If there are deep steps, the contacts are worn.