Author Topic: Removed Killswitch, Wont Start. Wire Around? (Read 10615 times)

hondachopproject · « **on:** April 25, 2005, 02:20:26 PM »

Hello and Help,
Here's the story
I have a 76 cb 550, wire broke on start button, soldered it..something happened... lost small parts to button.. so decieded to just elemenate(?) start button and kill switch (cut wires)...now bike won't start.... no spark.
I am sure it is connected to removing these switches.
Building a chop, trying to cut down on unneeded wires and switches.
Is there a way to wire around the kill switch so that I can run without it and still start bike?
Thanks for any help,
Lee

Zeke · « **Reply #1 on:** April 25, 2005, 03:14:35 PM »

Lee:

Most motor cycle kill switches are the "Normally Open" type. That means the circuit is open and the engine is allowed to run.

If you wire them together it won't run.

Try just capping the wires with a wire nut as opposed to wiring them together.

Zeke

scout18 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 25, 2005, 04:32:52 PM »

Now wait a minute. On my 350 the kill switch is Normally closed to run. If you take out the kill switch it makes the bike not run. You need to wire the two wires that went to your kill switch together so when you turn on the key it runs.

Zeke · « **Reply #3 on:** April 25, 2005, 04:44:31 PM »

Quote from: scout18 on April 25, 2005, 04:32:52 PM

Now wait a minute. On my 350 the kill switch is Normally closed to run. If you take out the kill switch it makes the bike not run. You need to wire the two wires that went to your kill switch together so when you turn on the key it runs.

Well, whatever is opposite of what he did in the first place is what needs to happen to make her run.

The only kill switches I've fooled with in any detail were for dirt bikes -- with a magneto they worked on the "ground out" principle just like an old lawnmower. You connect the spark to ground and it dies -- that's why I was thinking normally open.

I suppose if the spark is dependent on battery then it could surely work the other way.

Zeke

cben750f0 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 25, 2005, 05:12:37 PM »

find the junction where the switch bloke joins the wireing loom, and put the male kill switch plug into the place were the blake ground wire for the kill switch would go. just means that instad of the power going to the switch it just goes straight to the coils, this is what i did to check that my kill switch was working... and goodness sack get your self a color wireing diagram.... will save you some headaches... peace

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #5 on:** April 25, 2005, 05:14:32 PM »

Am I the only one here would not ride without a functioning kill switch.

hondachopproject · « **Reply #6 on:** April 25, 2005, 05:42:19 PM »

Tried just unplugging all wires going to switch..of course did not work.
For start button (for test only) just touching the two wires toghther.
but still no spark
cben750f1... what is a switch bloke? I will try this.... makes sense.
Lee

heffay · « **Reply #7 on:** April 25, 2005, 09:20:44 PM »

no kill switch here! but, i do have a key to turn, a clutch to grab, a couple of brakes, and when all else fails becuz your bike is posessed and wont die... ride hard!

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #8 on:** April 26, 2005, 03:19:39 AM »

Well, guess I just feel more comfortable with a kill switch. Biggest reason could be I've done all the work on this thing so far. $:-\$

eldar · « **Reply #9 on:** April 26, 2005, 07:54:03 PM »

I wish I had a kill switch. It is damn near impossible to find replacement switches for a 78k. Even used on ebay is a rarity.

cben750f0 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 27, 2005, 01:00:11 AM »

on my F1 the black/white wire is the power to the coils,and one of the black wires is the earth for the kill switch, both these wires go to the kill switch, if you find the junction for the switch block, then the black/white wire that would have normally plugged into your switch, can be plugged straight into black ground socket on the bikes main lume, there should be either a spare black position, or remove the black that would normally have gone to the kill switch, and plug the black/white straight into that, basically all you have done is turned the kill switch permanently on.. this then tests weather or not its your kill switch or something in the wireing...again you need a wireing diagram,to be cirtain, the colors i have quoted are for the F1....be warned....peace

hondachopproject · « **Reply #11 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:02:08 PM »

It worked...It worked... its alive! Now new problems to tackle... need to get some type of push button to start, Currently just touching to wires together.
Also carbs act like they are getting to much air...No air cleaners at moment, exhaust is stock down pipes with mufflers removed, waiting on drag pipes that I have ordered.... looking to get pods..any suggestions? Size of carb openings?
Thanks for the help,
Lee

cben750f0 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 28, 2005, 04:25:34 PM »

glad the rewire worked.... should be able to get pods anywhere.. there are some sellers mentioned elswhere on the forun, as for you start button, you should be able to get an automotive push button at your local auto store, but you need to get it the right amps... it is for starting, and you could mount it out of the way on the frame or something so you can leave you bars clear, i would mount it on the left side, so your right hand is free to use the throttle. cant think of any particular button type, but you auto store should be able to help, just plug it into the loom where your starter switch wwould have plugged in.... peace

scout18 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 28, 2005, 07:09:33 PM »

Ok, so for a starter switch you are looking for something called a momentary contact switch. It should make contact when you push it in and not make contact when it is out.

Dennis · « **Reply #14 on:** April 28, 2005, 09:50:48 PM »

Does it operate the headlight or is it just a starter button. If it is start only, you can get away with a 1 amp switch since it's only activating the starter solenoid. I haven't measured the current draw on a solenoid coil but it can't be much.
If it switches the headlight off when you are starting, it's a whole different animal.

cben750f0 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 29, 2005, 05:19:50 PM »

would only be a strt button..peace

Bodi · « **Reply #16 on:** April 29, 2005, 06:17:29 PM »

All the Honda bikes I have use black as the +12V ignition power wire. There's rarely a ground wire (everything grounds through the frame) but when there is, it is a green wire.

cben750f0 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 30, 2005, 12:42:04 AM »

you are probably right, i tend to take black as ground... but NEway, the black white, had to got into a black... appologies if i got ppl confused..peace

mrbreeze · « **Reply #18 on:** May 01, 2005, 04:14:55 PM »

DAMN!!!Everytime I get into readin' posts here, you guys remind me of another problem on my bike!When I first got mine(K5750) It had no starter button so I went to my friends boneyard and got the whole righthand control but it was a 350 or something and the button wouldn't fit so I did my Mickey Mouse routine and hooked the whole 350 control to my 750. Anyhow...Now I have a starter button,throtle,...Everything but the kill switch...(Anyone know where I can find a righthand control for a K5-750 that has every part working?) No matter what you have to do in there though,you should get awiring diagram and have a working knowledge of auto electrics before you start fiddling around....Good Luck...MRBREEZE

CHUNG · « **Reply #19 on:** May 01, 2005, 05:52:46 PM »

Open pipes and filters will need at least a #120 main jet, maybe 125+? Perhaps a #45 pilot too?
The switch mentioned in the other post is to short the mag and kill the motor on dirtbikes that run no battery. (and lawnmowers ;-) You have to supply power to the black w/white stripped wire to heat the coils.
If you are trying to eleminate electrical stuff??? pitch the whole electric starter system. Most 750s will start with the slightest push on the kicker, even some fairly "hot" motors. Battery, cable, Starter motor, solonoid, starter clutch/drive even the huge ground cable all add upto a pretty hefty bucket full of iron.

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Author Topic: Removed Killswitch, Wont Start. Wire Around? (Read 10615 times)

scout18

eldar

scout18

CHUNG