Topic: Documenting my factory one K1 restore

[Prospect]

Wow!  That was a rough looking K1 you started with.  The engine looked like it had been to war and back.  I'm working on a bottom end k1 rebuild at the moment. What did you end up replacing in the engine?

[mycb750k6]

Thanks, I appreciate that.

I was thinking about posting the process I had to go through for this bike here in Calif to get a new title and registration for this untitled salvage frame I started with that was out of the system for 30 yrs but not sure where to post it. The process is probably different in each state anyway.

[lucky]

Been fighting with the rear wheel as the PO just threw the rubber bumpers in there but it's OK now. I'm going to have to do something about those spokes but don't know what.

Use some very fine steel wool and WD40 on the spokes
Wipe down and make sure they have WD on the nipples too.

[fishslayeryo]

Great job on the restore! Very clean and meticulous... hope mine looks 1/2 as good when i'm done. Some good K1 porn in my books!

[mycb750k6]

You don't want yours to look half as good. You want it to look twice as good. K1 huh? You should start a thread in the projects section and take lots of pictures especially now if you've just begun.

[lucky]

OK roll the engine on it's side into the jig and then lower the frame down using a block and tackle.
There was a thin foam layer and a thin cardboard layer taped around the frame tubes so when I lowered the frame there was a snug fit and some resistance when I pushed it down so when it reached the mounting holes, it just stayed in place so I could put the bolts in. Took five minutes. No scratches or dings. Me thinks a little overkill. Loose the oil drain plug though. And for you H-man book owners, grinding the flange off before painting made things slip on easier. And I also had no water drain holes in the down tubes either. So I do now.

By putting holes in the frame you will have allowed moist air to enter and start the corrosion process. Tubes that are completely sealed cannot rust because there is NO oxygen present. I suggest sealing that hole that you made with silicone.
Make sure there is no way for water to get inside the frame tubes in the first place.

[mycb750k6]

Sorry, there are many ways for water to get into the frame. Just power wash the frame and see how much gets in when you tip it upside down. Anyway the holes are to let the water out and not accumulate and cause rust. This is all well documented in the Hondaman book. Do you have a copy?

[lucky]

Sorry, there are many ways for water to get into the frame. Just power wash the frame and see how much gets in when you tip it upside down. Anyway the holes are to let the water out and not accumulate and cause rust. This is all well documented in the Hondaman book. Do you have a copy?

I have been a welder most of my life.
I have cut many tubular structures apart and if the tube was sealed and we cut it apart years later there was almost no corrosion.
I have also built tubular aircraft engine mounts and studied the history of those structures too. Sealed tube - no corrosion.

Normally people do not power wash a motorcycle. It can force water into air boxes and electronics.
I would not power wash a motorcycle frame. But if water does get in the frame let it dry out completely and seal up any places that water can enter.
If the motorcycle is stored indoors it usually will not get pounded with water.

I would find out where the water is getting in and seal it. But I would not weld everything closed. as this can lead to other problems structurally(distortion and shrinkage).  Heat affected zones from welding must be carefully considered and unnecessary welding can actually weaken the frame over time.

[mycb750k6]

I don't care if you've been a welder or not, that's irrelevant. Water still gets in these frames and the only way to get it out is with drain holes. It won't dry up as you suggest. And it's not necessary to respond to every post out there. It'll be OK.