Topic: Bench syncing my carbs, a couple questions

[xfactor]

I have read through some previous posts about bench syncing carbs and I have a good idea how to do it, as well as the time today, but I did have some questions I was hoping some people could anwser some questions for me.

My bike is a 76 750f

When bench syncing do I need to pull the throttle linkage off of the carbs as well, or would I be fine just removing the crabs and not removing the throttle?

Do I need to start with a specific carb when bench syncing or can I just start with anyone?

I am bench syncing them only because I cant afford to get them synced nor do I have the money for the gauges, I plan on getting them synced, but for now I was just hoping bench syncing will solve some of the high idle and back firing issues I am having.

Thanks in advance,

Croix

[Gordon]

Bench-synching is really only for getting them somewhat close just to get the engine running after doing a total rebuild of the carbs.  If they're not super out-of-synch you could actually make things worse by bench synching them. 

Have you already gone through all the other steps of a full tune-up?  If not, you shouldn't be thinking about synching the carbs yet, anyway.  Check for intake leaks at the carb boots, too.  A leaky boot can cause some of the same symptoms of unbalanced carbs. 

[xfactor]

Bench-synching is really only for getting them somewhat close just to get the engine running after doing a total rebuild of the carbs.  If they're not super out-of-synch you could actually make things worse by bench synching them. 

Have you already gone through all the other steps of a full tune-up?  If not, you shouldn't be thinking about synching the carbs yet, anyway.  Check for intake leaks at the carb boots, too.  A leaky boot can cause some of the same symptoms of unbalanced carbs. 

yeah went through the tune up, just waiting to have money before vacuum syncing my carbs. I pulled them and checked, they are all at 1/16 so I was fine there, found out my number 4 slide sticks a bit, sprayed some wd40 and it was doing better, checked that the needles were set to the middle, they were, then adjusted my air screws, again. I have to wait till tomorrow to see if it made any difference, I think i just need them synced.

[wannabridin]

see if you can find out where that #4 slide is sticking.  if it's because of some loose grit, then blow it out.  if it's because of some form of corrosion or something, then you need to address that issue.  the wd-40 is just a band-aid until you can determine the real problem

[xfactor]

see if you can find out where that #4 slide is sticking.  if it's because of some loose grit, then blow it out.  if it's because of some form of corrosion or something, then you need to address that issue.  the wd-40 is just a band-aid until you can determine the real problem

Yeah I was looking and cant see any corrosion, truth be told I cant really figure out why its sticking. One thing I noticed was this, that my slides had the number 102 or 120 on them (I forgot, i think it was 120). Is this the stock configuration? The needles were set to the middle so I know that isnt a problem.

[ekpent]

It can only take  a very thin film of rusty coating and or varnish to cause a carb slide to become sticky and balky.Tracked that down on a high idle K4 problem once,wanted to stick at 2000-2500 rpm unless I blipped the throttle.Did you notice any rust or crud in the bottom of your float bowls? Remove the slides and clean well.