Topic: When I hit the start button it drains my new battery CB650c

[mikeF]

When I hook up the battery mytail light is on without the key in the ignition. Also when I try to start it the battery drains, I can hear the starter solenoid click. Anyone have any ideas?

[Duke McDukiedook]

Looks like you have some electrical/wiring issues to sort out.
Bust out some schematics and your manual and we'll try and help you.

[mikeF]

I have the shop manual, removed the ignition switch and tested it, looked at the gauges, fuses.
Next I am going to the headlight.

[Gordon]

You sure you're not just leaving the ignition in the "Park" position instead of the "Off" position when you take the key out?  I don't know for sure on the 650, but on other sohc4's that's one of the options on the switch.  It's designed so you can leave it on the side of a dark road with the tail light on but still be able to take your key with you.

[mikeF]

I double checked the key position and is in the off position and the brown wire at the tail light is hot with the key out of the ignition. I just probed the brown wire at the ignition switch and it is hot with thee key out, does this mean I have a bad ignition switch?

[Hush]

My thoughts too Gordon, being set on the park mode would leave the brown (lights) wire live with the key out.
For the 650 the key turns hard left and pushed in for locking and the key can be removed, next click right is "OFF" and the key can be removed, next click right should liven your green neutral light and generator red light, the next click right will bring on your park light and you can again remove the key.
If it was left for any length of time in this position the battery would drain and yes you would hear a clicking from the solenoid as the starter button was depressed.
Maybe the ignition was wired wrong at some stage, how long have you had the bike and do you know if it has had any work done on it?
Sorry to make this sound so basic but we have little to work on here to assist you....Hush.

[Hush]

If you click on that electrical diagram for the 650 and make it big enough to read you'll see that the brown wire does nothing but run from the ignition switch back to the tail light so pretty basic circuit.
If your key positions are right then I'd have to say your ignition switch has a fault and somehow the brown wire is being made live by connecting to the red "always live" wire.

[mikeF]

Thanks for the wiring diagram, I have the shop manual but your color diagram is much easier to read. my bike is a 1982
but I am thinking not to much changed between 1979 and 82. Jump started it and rode it earlier with the tail light unplugged. The charging system is a little weak at 12.5 - 12.7 V at higher rpm. This bike has been garaged and not started in 12 years. Runs like it was never off the road at only 14,500 original miles.

[scottly]

Recharge your battery, then check the charging system voltage with the motor running.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Recharge your battery, then check the charging system voltage with the motor running.

WITH a motorcycle specific charger, nothing bigger than 1.5 amps.

[mmtsquid]

Funny, every time I hit the start button, it drains my wallet.

[mikeF]

Well definitely my wiring problem is a faulty ignition switch. I did a continuity test with the key off there is continuity
between the battery terminal and the P terminal. I did this test with the switch out of the bike.

I understand Honda does not make a ignition switch for this anymore. If anyone has one to sell or knows where I can get one I would appreciate it. My bike is a 1982 CB650C  nighthawlk. 

Thank you

MikeF

[Ved]

http://www.google.com/products?q=1982+CB650C+ignition+switch&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=O_ryS--FPMH_lgf0_I2WDQ&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CCYQrQQwAg

[mikeF]

Thank you for the link to ignition switches. On another note since this bike sat for 12 years the valves sound a little clattery. has anyone ever used the product sea foam in a crank case? with 14,500 original miles on the bike I don't think it needs a valve adjustment ( feel free to tell me if I am wrong ).

Thanks,

MikeF

[Gordon]

On another note since this bike sat for 12 years the valves sound a little clattery. has anyone ever used the product sea foam in a crank case? with 14,500 original miles on the bike I don't think it needs a valve adjustment ( feel free to tell me if I am wrong ).

Some folks here put Seafoam in the crankcase shortly before changing the oil.  I'm not one of them, but I do use it in the gas tank occasionally.

The clattering you hear is probably the cam chain, but you should at least check the valve clearances.  That's the only way you'll know if they need to be adjusted.  Have you set the cam chain tensioner?   

[Hush]

Who leaves a perfectly good bike with low miles in a garage for 12 years....boy!!!!??
To adjust your cam chain here is the easy way, bring the bike to operating temperature on the main stand, let it idle at it's normal idle speed (probably 1000-1200 rpm) now losen the cam chain adjuster lock nut and screw the adjuster out about 3/4 of a turn.
(You'll find these at the back of the cylinder head just below the carbs).
This allows the adjuster slipper to push the camchain out a bit further and take any slop out of the chain.
The engine will probably get noisier but that's OK, now screw the adjuster back in until it is firmly seated (don't go caveman on it or you will be extremely sorry) .
Now lock the adjuster with the locking nut.....done.
If that failed to take some of the noise out of your motor then I would suspect the carbs need balancing (synchronising).