Topic: Not a SOHC, but a project for sure! '66 BSA Lightning

[putnaja1]

I hope you guys don't mind an occasional non-SOHC build in here.  I've had a SOHC before- does that get me in the door? 

Some of you may recall, I sold my CB550k a little while ago.  I was getting to be a chicken about riding it in the overpopulated area that I live in so I cut it loose, but later I missed having a motorcycle.  Mostly I think I missed having a project bike to work on.  One day while out and about I came across a bookstore selling a coffee table book about British motorcycles, and when I came to the BSA section in that book, I knew I wanted to find one to fix up.  A quick search on Craigslist, a phone call, and an hour drive away from my house was all it took;  Next thing I knew, I was loading up the "rolling chassis" of a 1966 BSA Lightning.  Here's a picture of it stuffed into the car for the ride home..



Buyer's remorse set in as soon as I got it home and looked it over.  For $365.00, I got a frame, forks, triple clamps, swingarm, rear shocks, front rim/brake, rear rim and brake/sprocket, and oil tank.  I knew damn well that, unless some sort of miracle happened, this would be the most expensive and difficult way to acquire a complete motorcycle.  Also, considering I've never worked on a British bike before (I've never even sat on a BSA before) this would be a really ambitious project.  To top it all off, after cleaning some 30+ years of gunk from the rims, I found that the chrome on both of them is shot (rust through to the steel in several spots)..  Damn- I know better than to buy a bike like this- no title even!!  What was I thinking?!  Only one thing works out in my favor- the frame is straight, and upon further research, it turns out both brakes/hubs are the proper type for this model/year. 

I later lucked out big time by finding a British bike show nearby, and when I went it was raining heavily.  I think the guys selling parts were anxious to sell what they could to the few people that were crazy enough to look for parts in the rain, and because I was one of the crazy ones, I think I got a price break on some major components needed for this project:  I bought a complete motor and carb (1 carb setup- so this will now be an A65 Thunderbolt instead of an A65 Lightning), a gas tank with decent chrome, a seat, a headlight bucket with ammeter, Smith's magnetic tach/speedo, and side panels- all for around $500 bucks.  The motor turns over and goes through all the gears OK, and isn't missing any bolts or cooling fins.  The seller of the motor has a title for that motor, and all-around I think I did pretty well.





Jason

[zzpete]

I like it. I always wanted a Beezer. I've owned Nortons in the past. I think you have a good shot at it with parts you got. Beware of Lucas, Lord of Darkness!

[Stev-o]

Looks like a nice project, I've always liked the old BSA's.

You may want to replace that front tire!

[number13]

I have owned two hard tails, both with
Lightning engines in them.
They are just about bullet proof.
Good luck!

[putnaja1]

Thanks for the positive words, guys!  Yes, the tires are definately toast!

On the plus side, careful searching, using an official 1966 BSA parts manual that I picked up as my guide, is yielding parts, slowly but surely.  Sure, there are some parts gougers out there charging top dollar, but if I am patient, the $20.00 replacement rims do come up (opposed to the $300.00 replacement rims)..  I've always wanted to try my hand at rebuilding a rim too- now I'm gonna get my chance.



On the learning side- I had no idea there were other bolt/thread standards besides metric and "standard".  This bike uses all BSW (British Standard Whitworth?)  Anyways, this is going to be the next phase for me- figuring out who/what companies sell this standard of nuts and bolts new, finding a set of tools that will work with them, finding a tap/die set for it, etc.  Or, if it looks like it might be impossible to get these items anymore, I might have to think about converting over to something easier to get.  

Jason

[zzpete]

Ah yes the old Whitworth tools. I still have a set of wrenches and sockets. I did a search and it looks like there are plenty of places to get them.

[gane]

P, as an owner of multiple engish 650 twins, offer this. While with effort, these bikes CAN be made to be "reasonably" reliable, they are what they were. BSA's & Triumphs of the day used a "centrifical" sludge trap, in essence a tube located within the crank. (usually impossible for the Casual wrencher to access). make BFSURE it's clear... 2nd, crank end play is critical. another task which is diffecult for the novice. asside from these, reading & comprehending manuals are often a task. period bikes make modest HP, have poor brakes/suspension, & I imagine you've heard electic's. All this asside, there is something about the "LOOK" of a Brit Twin's  engine... The smooth contours of the BSA's crank covers, Having it's pushrods enclosed within barrels, generally make it's powerplant look like the profile of a duck... Fit trhe largest C/S sprocket you  can find, and try to limit your' top-end blasts to @ 80 mph. Avoid prolonged high-speed riding (exhaust valves stick) have fun. luck G

[dakota]

Great project!
If you need a manual or a parts list, just let me know!
Dakota

[Zig]

Walridge Motors has the parts you need and these bikes have a sound all their own.

Pre unit??? Do you have a gearbox??

[putnaja1]

Thanks for the info guys- please keep it coming, this will help me get this thing going!

@dakota - thanks man! I have a Cylmer manual, and an official BSA parts guide.  I'm looking around- someone has the official BSA shop manual on CDROM.  

@Zig - Thanks- I'll look them up.  This one is a unit twin, gearbox in the casing (but I think it still uses it's own gearbox oil?)  It's got the gearbox, and shifts through all the gears..

@gane - Thanks for the tips- I'll probably pick your brain frequently if that's Ok!  I've got a book that talks about the need to clear out the sludge trap, change oil frequently (and probably fit an aftermarket spin on filter), and the importance of the timing side bush shim/crank location.  I might even see about getting the crank converted to timing side roller bearing/through crank oiling (but this sounds awful pricey- might just leave it stock)..  Brakes I'm on the fence- I'll see how good I can get the drums, and if they are scary whatsoever there will be a disc conversion in the front.  What will a larger countershaft sprocket do for the bike- I've heard they want to take off at 10mph so you need to slip the clutch alot..  Will a larger countershaft sprocket tame that some?

**=->  EDIT =->  Whoops- I had that backwards again!  So, bigger C/S sprocket would lessen RPM at highway speed, for less RPM (and therefore less vibes at speed?)

Thanks!
Jason

[gane]

J,Free advice is generally worth what you pay for it, But, In my opinion, you would do best to keep as close to stock (engine wise) as is feasable.I see little reason to search for a couple HP  when there is no competion. period Brit... manufacturing  was marginal at best, High compression pistons/titanium pushrods/high lift cams etall, add stress to what is/was a Quirky mill. Metalurgy has come a long way since the '60's. Cast iron barrels/aluminim pistons/composite push rods, all required clearances goofy by todays standards. Keeping this in mind, make your' build as proper as you can, & ride with these constaints in mind. the Japanese unseated the Brit. bikes not only because they made more power, but were dependable... Build your' BSA, & enjoy if for what you make it.    Oh Yeah,  Riding a vintage bike "compresses" reality... I figure it requires @ 4 times the concentration  to ride one when you have to pre-think braking distances/shift points/exit speeds etc. have fun G

[putnaja1]

Gane, the thoughts are much appreciated!  I'd already decided from the start that any mods to this bike would be for reliability/improved safety only..

For example, unless I can get the stock electrics restored bulletproof, I will go the electronic ignition, new rectifier/charging equipment route to vanquish any electrical gremlins.  I don't even have a wiring harness- none came with the bike.  I'm going to get the proper thickness/type of wire and build my own harness, with no splices if possible.

Modern tires will be what is going onto the rims.  I ran Pirelli Sport Demons on my CB550, and they worked great.  I plan to run the stock brakes at first, but if it is found to be totally unsafe- I'll see about some type of disc conversion..  And this all will be just to get something that is fun/relatively safe to ride- this won't be a daily commuter bike..  Just a recreational ride kinda bike.  I also won't be looking to squeeze more power out of the motor or anything like that- even though these bikes are old, this thing will still feel like a rocket ship compared to the family car..  Plenty fast for me!   :-) 

Jason

[gane]

J, By all means, eliminate stock points/advance unit...I like the boyer/bransdon unit w/a single dual output coil . so far as wiring,  do yourself a favor. study the stock wiring diagram,  It's really quite simple, and reproduce it with either new wire , or better yet the corpse of a jap four's harness. as this will allow color coding...Make yourself a wiring diagram, & copy it. Keep 1 copy w/ bike, & 1 for reference. Retain stock charging system/zenerdiode, & don't bother trying to change the positive ground. (it can be done, but isn't worth the effort). Oh Yeah, If using a "Gasket set,(of the era)", which has paper gaskets...(sometimes folded) spray 'em with water & let them soak 'til supple before unfolding...then skim lightly with 3bond, Yamabond #4,Hondabond whatever (the grey #$%*) & allow to get "tacky". this will not only "relax 'em " enough to fit properly but ease fitment, & aid sealing. G

[Zig]

Missed the part where you said your motor goes thru the gears, so is unit construction, kool.
Boyer/Phazon/Tri Spark all make ignition modules for the twins, a worthwile investment when you get there. Left my Zener up there for show but run an electronic reg  underneath.
Clutch is single dry disc?? Inexpensive to replace, dont trust the old one.
What model is the Amal? If slide is sloppy in bore can be re-machined and sleeved but a single Amal isnt very expensive. I had mine sleeved, worked out ok.
Inside of the tank good?
Zig.

[putnaja1]

@gane - awesome tips, thanks man!  Yes, I plan to pull off a full on McGuiver- reproduce a stock wiring setup, with same color scheme, with cloth jacket.  I'll keep the positive ground- stock schematic will work and make sense when I am done. 

@zig - Amal carb that came with the engine is not the monobloc, but is the concentric one.  I know this may sound cheesy, but I always thought the monobloc looked the business- but if the one I've got works, I will be happy with that.  Hope it works!  If it is worn out (I haven't looked at it's guts yet) I need to compare the price of re-sleeve/overhaul versus Japanese replacement carb.  Haven't looked at the clutch yet, but that is good advice on the disc replacement.  Inside of the tank has rust, but doesn't look too bad.  I've been wrapping on the bottom of the tank, and it feels solid.  I'm gonna fill it with nuts and bolts, wrap it in some foam/eggcrate, and put it in my clothes dryer on air/no-heat setting.  Someone told me this is a good way to get the rust out.  I better seal it in a garden/leaf bag and tape first, or my wife will put me in the dryer!

I just bought some Whitworth wrenches and sockets, handlebars (couldn't resist, chrome clubmans for the "Goldstar" look), levers, throttle, and grips..  Darn bank card glowing red from use now..  Need to switch to elbow grease for a while!  :-)
Jason

[kerryb]

Here is the fender I PM'd you about. 

[Zig]

check clutch pullrod for wear as well as it bearing.

[putnaja1]

Here is the fender I PM'd you about. 

Kerry- can't tell from the pic- is the back end of the fender (the bottom edge) rounded?  The rear fender I am looking for has the very trailing end rounded- almost like a half-circle at the bottom.  Can't tell from your pic or not- the fender you have certainly looks very nice- great condition!  I'm looking for a chrome one if I can find it, but will keep yours in mind!

Jason

[putnaja1]

Update with some pics..  Finally broke in my new BSW wrenches/sockets, and removed the swingarm/shocks, and also the forks/triple clamps.  Good old WD-40 and light tapping with a hammer (and sometimes heat from a propane torch) have so far avoided any stripping/butchery during disassembly.  There's an inspection sticker on the front that says 1974- wow..  Here's what the bike looks like now:



Also, some eBay madness has been going on.  I got a choke lever assembly, headlamp glass (pretty neat- has a pilot light bulb in addition to main bulb!?), and also the trim ring and "W" clips.  I haven't received them yet, but when I do I'll have the complete headlight assembly- the clips apparently hold the glass to the trim ring, and the ring attaches to the bucket.

Here's the handlebars, grips, throttle, and levers that came in:



Now I need to find a place that will sand blast the frame.  I'm considering pro-paint on the frame- should be much more durable than rattle can..  Of course- rattle can is easy to touch up.  We'll see..  Maybe I can find a good blast/prime/paint combo price somewhere.  That's it for now.

Jason

[putnaja1]

Just put the head back on the motor, and put the carb on- I'll have to take it back apart to rebuild, but didn't want it sitting opened up too long for fear of losing parts, wanted to see what else was needed, etc.  Plus, this way it just looks cool!  The frame is a lightning, but I got a motor from a Thunderbolt.  The difference?  Lightning has a two carb head, the Thunderbolt a one carb head.  Supposedly, the cam is the same.  I am not too bummed out- I hear performance is fairly close, and I figure this will be easier to tune and get running.  Should I decide I want more juice (or more authentic to the Lightning model) I can try to find a Lightning head and carbs later.  The carb is an Amal "concentric" 936.  I believe the concentric is newer than what came with the '66 model year, which is what year my frame is.  While I think the older, "monobloc" Amal carbs look better, the concentric is supposed to be a little more reliable..  

Check it out:



Jason

[eideteker]

It's going to be beautiful...keep us updated!

[argie69]

Good luck with the project, I had a 69 Triumph T100C I sold and picked up a 78 CB550 with 1800 orig miles. I also really liked the 71-72 BSA A65 Lightning 650 and was going to look to pick one up til I settled on the CB550. They are right about the Sludge Trap, on the Triumph you had to split the cases and hope that you didn't have to drill it out! And if you changed the points and went with a Boyer you better be damn sure your battery and charging system was good or you were pushing, pot metal Amals, etc.. Very good looking bikes though.

[putnaja1]

PROGRESS REPORT:

Got the frame sanded finally- I tried to find a local sandblaster, but apparently they have no interest in money..  So, I resorted to paint removal via elbow grease (ala power drill, course wire wheel, then fine wire wheel, then sandpaper.)  Someone here once said, "you're not serious about a project until you get sanding dust in your butt-crack".  I have finally gotten serious about a project then!  Lots of work, but I gotta say, after the primer went on, it looks fantastic- smooth as glass.  This weekend I will spray a few coats of gloss black, and then after it hardens I'll apply multiple coats of wax.

Here the frame is about 1/2 way sanded:


Here is the frame after about 20 hours of work- almost done:


Here is the frame, primer applications complete:


Also, I have obtained some hard to get parts- side panel mount bracket, rear brake rod, motor mounts, and also the entire taillight assembly.

Stay tuned, more after this commercial break!  :-)

[putnaja1]

Now after a few coats of paint.  I used Rustoleum Gloss black.  I learned long ago that, despite the instructions on  the can to only use thin coats, you don't get a glossy finish unless you put the paint on a bit thick.  Too thick and you get orange peel or runs of course.  It's a balancing act.  BUT, not bad for rattle-can finish, what do you think?





I think I will follow this up with some ultra-fine sanding and multiple coats of wax..  But, I need to let this paint cure a bit for now..  Now I need to start working on the swing arm and forks, get the wheels rebuilt, and put this thing on it's feet!

Jason

[zzpete]

  Looks GREAT!! What primer did you use?