When I measure the resistance between any of these black wires and any of the green ground wires in the bucket I get 2.3 ohmns. This is done with the ignition off.
As I explained earlier, this is no surprise. I can find no established norm or specification for the measurement you are intent upon. Please explain why you are so focused about having a reference number for this test.
All the black wires are normally attached to resistive loads. All the loads normally have an attachment to the green wires.
What is it you expect when measuring between the black and green wires?
With the key on and measuring voltage I get 11.3V at all of them. Battery is at 12.9V.
You measured this voltage difference between both places with the key on? If s,o losing that much voltage means you have resistive connections on the power path, possibly the switch itself. Either rebuild it or replace it.
It is unlike, however, this is not the cause of your present lack of function problems. Bit, you'll have to fix it for later reliability.
When I switch to measure continuity on the meter, why am I getting continuity between any black power wire and any ground wire or the frame as well? Does this not indicate a pathway exists between the positive and negative circuits? I am not blowing any fuses.
I already explained this. ALL the loads are resistive and wired in parallel. A bulb filament is simply a piece of conductive wire attached to the black and green wires (possibly through/via switches). If you had no resistance, then the lights won't come on when you apply power, the coils won't work, etc. The black wires are always attached to the loads. The black wires are energized when the key switch connects them to the battery power source, and that makes the lights or other power using device operate.
If you measure the resistance of light bulb terminals, don't you get a resistance reading?
Are you familiar with ohm's law? E=I/R
The solid brown wire in the bucket is indeed the same wire for my tail light. But what is doing in the headlight bucket? Not on the wiring diagram It is only supposed to run from tail light to fuse then to ignition switch.
Where did you get your wire harness? Are you certain it is for a 73?
There were requirements in Europe to have a front running/parking lamp that was powered from the brown wire.
This Brown wire to the headlight bucket also shows up on the K6 model.
This is the wiring diagram I have been staring at for days.
Personally, I'd trust a real Honda source rather than clymer.
But then, now there is a question about whether your wire diagram accurately defines your wire harness.
Turn signals
I thought the blue and orange wires with the white stripe were not used at all if you wanted to run without front running lights, I will try connecting them and see what happens.
At this stage I'll be thrilled with any minor success.
You are flailing about with only hope guiding you, IMO. The white stripe wires you mention do not have to be connected as you originally suspected. Electrics are not hard with a basic understanding, mystifying without. You need to take one firm step at a time to gain knowledge and confidence. The big picture is seldom revealed instantaneously.
Why did you replace the original harness? Did that old harness have the brown wire in the bucket?
Cheers,
