Author Topic: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in  (Read 4658 times)

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Online dave500

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Re: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in
« Reply #25 on: March 04, 2011, 01:26:50 AM »
if its an old cable it might have stretched after a million gear changes?and not quite give the stroke it needs,now its snapped it might be why?see what its like with the new cable,you might drop the clutch cover,dissemble/inspect and reassemble the clutch and it might come good?the thrust washer at the basket might be worn?expands with heat and takes up slack maybe?,with total cable slack the notches on the case and arm should line up as you lift the arm by hand into the declutch position,try adjusting it one way then the other as you watch the marks come close and apart,stop and lock the nut when you think its on the dot,have the handle bar end about two or three threads out,then take up slack at the bottom end of the cable,work the lever from time to time to settle the cable as you do it,see how it is and adjust further at the handle bar end if needed,the adjusters at each end of the cable do the same job,the handle bar end needs no tools though and is used for on the go adjustments,you should be able to pull the outer say half a millimeter from the adjuster at the handle bar end,a dragging clutch is a real pain,is the cable routed correctly?
« Last Edit: March 04, 2011, 01:31:19 AM by dave500 »

Offline Nortstudio

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Re: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in
« Reply #26 on: March 04, 2011, 03:58:57 AM »
I'm going back to it later today.  Glad you got it close.  That's about where I am.  Been that way since before winter.  Just never felt like it was perfect.

Thus new cable makes a world of difference though.

Anyway OneWheel, can you clarify for me where you are going for the 1" play?  What should be happening withe the lifter arm?

Thanks
1976 CB550K...in progress
1975 CL360...eventually custom
2009 Husqvarna TE610

a blog about wrenching in Brooklyn, NY

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Offline OneWheelDrive

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Re: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in
« Reply #27 on: March 05, 2011, 10:45:00 PM »
Sorry for the late reply.  So the 1/2 inch of play should be at the end of the clutch lever.  I define "free play" as being as far as you can pull the lever with just your pinky.  The actuator arm will lift just a bit (1/4" or so?), then at the 1/2" mark (at the lever) should start feeling tension as the lever inside presses the clutch lifter pin.

If you have more or less free play than you need, adjust with the nut on the clutch lever end.
1975 CB550 cafe
1971 CB500 stocker
2008 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S *sold*
1973 CB350F *sold*
1975 CB550K Project "Keeper" *sold*
2010 Ducati Monster S4RS *sold*
1976 CB360T *sold*
1974 CB550K *sold*
1973 CB750K *sold*
1978 CB550K *sold*
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Online dave500

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Re: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in
« Reply #28 on: March 05, 2011, 11:18:28 PM »
i pull the free play at the cable outer from the adjuster nut at the handle bar end,if the cable has slack of about half a millimeter its good,bugger trying to measure at the end of the lever.

Offline Nortstudio

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Re: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in
« Reply #29 on: March 06, 2011, 04:15:36 AM »
My big (hopefully last!) frustration has been, no matter how many times I go back and forth, adjusting on either end, my clutch action is only in the last bit of "throw" of the lever. 

Especially on stop and go streets like we have here, it would be nice to be moving a little earlier when I'm letting out the clutch handle.  At this point, if there is a bunch of traffic pressure, I feel like I am almost going to pop wheelie.

 Thanks for the responses.
1976 CB550K...in progress
1975 CL360...eventually custom
2009 Husqvarna TE610

a blog about wrenching in Brooklyn, NY

“Success is dependent on effort.”
~Sophocles

bollingball

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Re: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in
« Reply #30 on: March 06, 2011, 05:58:02 AM »
Nort you did notice you said (1") of free and OneWheel said (1/2") of free play did you? I am a 750 guy so mine is not the same but my gut is telling me it is your adjustment procedure that may be the problem.

Offline Nortstudio

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Re: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in
« Reply #31 on: March 06, 2011, 06:25:24 AM »
I'm all ears for tips on adjustment (specifics I mean). 

I have been trying to follow the directions on this post (and many others), and for some reason my brain melts with this particular issue.  It's starting to worry me :)

I don't think I have ever gotten to a place where I could worry about the 1/2" or 1".  I think the 1" referred to the arm, but at this point I could be totally wrong. 

I guess my specific question would be: If I now have the arm lined up to the dot on the case, and the cable feels good (in terms of ease of pull resistance, and (man!!!) so much smoother because of the new cable and fresh lube, how do I get the clutch to engage/disengage more in the middle of the throw?

Is it simply fiddling with the adjusters on both ends until it get s correct?  If so, any tips on which way i should be turning the adjustment bolts to achieve this?  ie less or more handle threads showing?  Nut on the case side toward the ground or toward the sky?  Sorry to be so thick with this.  I really can't believe this has taken me so long to get this right.  For Pete's sake, I did my first ever full tune-up in less time!


1976 CB550K...in progress
1975 CL360...eventually custom
2009 Husqvarna TE610

a blog about wrenching in Brooklyn, NY

“Success is dependent on effort.”
~Sophocles

Offline fastbroshi

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Re: '76 CB550K wants to creep in 1st with Clutch lever pulled in
« Reply #32 on: March 06, 2011, 06:35:16 AM »
   I know mine's adjusted correctly.  The adjustment nuts on the cable itself down by the case are on top of the bracket.  The threaded part of my cable doesn't protrude at all from the bottom of this bracket.  Brand new cable.  Like I said before, the manual COULD be incorrect on the direction you should turn the slotted adjustment stud, depending on which one you're using. 
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