Topic: Carb cleaning today

[vegasvic]

After getting into this i hope i can put it back together again, and then 3 more times!  More complicated than my little 125cc that's for sure.

The PO tried to use make-a-gasket to seal this up instead of a regular gasket, then let it set for 3 years, so it is quite a mess.  I do have a question though, taking this apart i don't see a way to remove the float valve seat, is it not to be removed?

I've looked at 3 diagrams for Honda carbs and none look like mine, I've looked but can't find a model number on them even following perfectly good directions. I don't suppose somebody could explain it to my 4 y/o so he could explain it to me?

thanks
vic

[Frostyboy]

The numbers on mine at least are on the top of the mounting flange that is screwed to the rack.
I'm sure the float valve seat will come out, but it might help if you tell us what bike you're working with.

[vegasvic]

You're right, details are important.  I've a 1975 CB550F.  And since the thread began I tried to push a screwdriver thru my left hand then dipped and cleaned my first carb. It is, if I remember correctly 069A.

Pulling everything out of the dip I noticed there were probably 2 gaskets I missed removing. I ordered new gasket kits for these carbs, hope these are part of the kit.

Anybody have a diagram on putting this back together?  The one in the service doesn't match this set of carbs.

vic

[Frostyboy]

Mine is a '76 550F. I found everything I needed in the Honda Manual. You can download it from here.
CB500 CB550 Workshop Service Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/?uznwn3ihx0i

There is a section on the carburettors on page 57. It seems there is a page missing in Maintenance section for tuning the carbs, but you should find more info in the seperate maintenance manual here.
CB550 Owners Maintenance Manual 1974:  http://www.mediafire.com/?j0mmwzqmgom

There should be a plate screwed to the body that secures the float valve, when that's removed grab the seat & pull it out

[KingCustomCycles.com]

It is not necessary to remove all the carbs from the rack unless one is damaged beyond repair. I don't know of a single cleaning operation that can't be done with the carbs, linkages, and cross tubes intact. If they won't fit in the pan for boiling, buy a bigger pan.  

[dave500]

i always dissemble them fully,if you want to replace the fuel tee o rings and the like,its not a proper job otherwise in my eyes,if your that far into it.

[Deltarider]

It is not necessary to remove all the carbs from the rack unless one is damaged beyond repair. I don't know of a single cleaning operation that can't be done with the carbs, linkages, and cross tubes intact.

+1
Personally I haven't encountered leaking O-rings at the T-joints yet. Leakage here is  unlikely: both ends have double O-rings. If it's leaking there however, you have to separate carbs. But first check if your fuellines have the right internal diameter, are in good condition and are properly fitted.

[dave500]

id be pretty keen to replace 35 plus year old o rings.,especially when fuel is involved,with all due respect delta you dont get the high temperatures we get here,and neglected stored bikes will have perished o rings in this area(of the carb),even if i got hold of a going good old bike id do those o rings.,a dry old carb is a nasty old carb,often the root of trouble further down the line,an old aussie saying,,do it once,,do it well.your not saving any money by not doing them,if you have have to redo your work for simple o rings later,, +1 on the hoses,or lines,if the carbs are off use the best money can buy,your mad if you dont.

[going4speed]

I replaced my orings and they came off in pieces.

Texas heat 

[vegasvic]

Thanks for the help guys! 

Here is a pic of the "is it suppose to come out and how" thing, my awl is pointing at it.  I believe it is the float needle seat and its not budging. It looks brass and it damages easily.  Found that out as I attempted to pull on it with the needlenose. 

I could not find a plate anywhere to remove, everything is removed.  There is a brass tube on the other side but I've never removed one of those before, I don't think you need to.

Also there are a couple felt looking things that i think i destroyed, they "cleaned" the throttle shaft?  Anyway the Honda guy couldn't find that part, i don't suppose anyone reading this could give me a part number?

Thanks again.
vic

[Alan F.]

....I tried to push a screwdriver thru my left hand....

I really hated it when that happened to me.

Lessons: a screwdriver is not a prybar, never pry on anything that must be held by hand.

Ouch, thanks for the flashback!    Hope you're doing alright with that.

[vegasvic]

Alright, let me try again....

[JBMorse]

I have a pair of pliers whose jaws I've wrapped in masking tape, to make soft jaws pliers.  I use them on stuff like this.  You can gently pull that needle jet out that way. It's not super tight, just hard to get out with your bare hands (even with my bony fingers).

[vegasvic]

If a needlenose will mar this soft brass won't I crush this if I grab it with a pliers?  If I do wreck this, they are replaceable right???

vic

[Frostyboy]

If a needlenose will mar this soft brass won't I crush this if I grab it with a pliers?  If I do wreck this, they are replaceable right???
vic

Yep, they sure are. When you buy your kits, the needle & seat is generally included. Don't be afraid to give em a good twist on the way out.
Just be a bit careful when you buy your kits, an F has smaller mains & idles than a K. There doesn't appear to be any difference in the float valves though (needle & seat).
Advice from long term posters here say to stay with original jets & just fit the new 'o' rings to the mains.