Author Topic: fmctm1sw 75 CB550K (Read 21520 times)

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #50 on:** January 26, 2011, 03:19:28 PM »

.... and the motor after siting overnight drying. And starting to reassemble.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #51 on:** January 29, 2011, 07:02:57 PM »

Coming together. The plan is to mount it into the frame now. I figure the lighter it is, the less chance I have of scratching everything up...

*edit* I did manage to forget the seal for the kickstarter. No harm though since it's in the cover and not the casings...

Zaipai · « **Reply #52 on:** January 30, 2011, 08:29:10 PM »

Nothing like a fresh clean motor.. You have to be loving this part of the build.

.: Scott :.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #53 on:** February 05, 2011, 06:48:51 PM »

At a crawl here lately. Cleaned up the clutch cover and the sprocket cover. The picture doesn't do them justice, they look pretty good. Not polished or anything but clean, front and back...

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #54 on:** February 14, 2011, 03:28:43 PM »

I installed the motor yesterday. Used a technique I picked up in another thread. Will work great with the 750 when I get started on that too. Also mounted the tire. You notice the rear tire is conspicuously absent. That's because I poked a hole in the tube when I put the tire on. Adding insult to injury, I scratched up the rim a little as well. That one is off to the local shop.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #55 on:** February 15, 2011, 05:17:01 PM »

Got my rear tire fixed today. Under $30 (including the new tube) in less than 90 minutes. I don't know why I continue to torture myself by trying to change them myself...

theofam · « **Reply #56 on:** February 15, 2011, 07:37:22 PM »

What a cool idea for installing the lower end of the motor. Not sure if it'll work on a 750, though, unless you've installed a kit that allows you to remove/reinstall the top frame tubes. Otherwise, with a stock 750 frame, I've read you can't take the top end apart while in the frame. So, I'd presume the opposite is true, too - that you can't install the top end if the lower end of the motor's already in the frame. Have a 750 guru confirm this for you before you try it!

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #57 on:** February 16, 2011, 10:17:55 AM »

Quote from: theofam on February 15, 2011, 07:37:22 PM

What a cool idea for installing the lower end of the motor. Not sure if it'll work on a 750, though, unless you've installed a kit that allows you to remove/reinstall the top frame tubes. Otherwise, with a stock 750 frame, I've read you can't take the top end apart while in the frame. So, I'd presume the opposite is true, too - that you can't install the top end if the lower end of the motor's already in the frame. Have a 750 guru confirm this for you before you try it!

I'd like to claim it but I ripped it off from another thread here. I think I'm the only one to use soda crates though on top of those little furniture moving things! The 4x6 was probably overkill. Yeah, the 750 has to come out in one piece. I decided to assemble the 550 in the frame so it isn't all over my garage. This was a "proof of concept."

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #58 on:** February 21, 2011, 06:42:06 PM »

I didn't take many photos but I got all the valves out of both heads I have and cleaned them real good. I lost a set of those little cotters when my tool slipped and sent them into orbit. Got the oil filter together and the oil pan on too. Also freed the oil pump, it was completely galled. That was the good news...

The bad news is that something is up with my harness. I think I may have put a 550F harness on it because I have a handful of wire colors that don't match anything. I'll have to do some research but this sucks considering I sold all extra 550 stuff I had. The road is full of potholes but I'm still grinding away....

Zaipai · « **Reply #59 on:** February 22, 2011, 06:16:13 PM »

Great job getting the motor in the bike, cool way to do it.

.: Scott :.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #60 on:** March 17, 2011, 04:45:47 PM »

I've been totally deficient updating the progress. Long story short, I think my wiring issues are resolved. I neglected to remember the horn and the brake switch, those need to be wired up too

I got my gasket kit and was taken aback at how huge the package is. It could really be about half the size. I also noticed those little rubber head bolt plugs didn't come with it. Good thing I didn't trash them when I took the top end apart. Hopefully I can get the top end back together this weekend and get a compression check accomplished. I had the cylinders honed and have a new ring set. The head is painted as well. Looks better than the pictures are portaying it...

I have a nice seat cover but am I supposed to screw holes right through it for the strap? I really don't see how else to get the strap on it. Am I missing something?

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #61 on:** March 21, 2011, 06:24:34 PM »

Here's my seat coming along. I used a set of clothes pin looking things I found at Harbor Freight and I borrowed a bunch of binder clips from work. The instructions say to take a few pins off and glue it. I tried a couple and it seems to be working ok. I'll check it tomorrow and if the contact cement held ok, I'll finish the rest...

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #62 on:** March 26, 2011, 07:38:52 PM »

Finishing up the seat. The contact cement held good and I bought trim for the bottom of the seat from Autozone (black was all they had $:-\$ ). Letting it sit overnight. Those binder clamps are the way to go. Got all my piston rings on and should get the jugs onto the case tomorrow. One concern I have is the cam chain. I have a new chain but I have to fish it through the case....

Stev-o · « **Reply #63 on:** March 27, 2011, 11:03:24 AM »

Is the old cam chain still in there?

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #64 on:** March 27, 2011, 12:04:56 PM »

Quote from: Stev-o on March 27, 2011, 11:03:24 AM

Is the old cam chain still in there?

Yeah, it's in there. The master link I have a is the rivet type so I can't attach it to pull it through. I plan on putting the link in it and yanking it through hoping the link doesn't fall off...

hoodellyhoo · « **Reply #65 on:** March 27, 2011, 02:54:55 PM »

Guys like you need to stop making engine work look so easy. I need fresh gaskets and paint on my 350 motor but I'd be too afraid of mucking something up.

Otherwise great job so far!

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #66 on:** March 27, 2011, 05:50:37 PM »

This SUCKS! Getting the last piston to settle into the jug and... snap. Broken compression ring. Down into case. That's the bad news. The good news is I can see it. If I had a magnetic tipped tool, I'd be ok but I don't. So, I'm stuck until I get one...

Elniniomuchachos · « **Reply #67 on:** March 28, 2011, 11:30:19 AM »

Quote from: fmctm1sw on March 27, 2011, 05:50:37 PM

This SUCKS! Getting the last piston to settle into the jug and... snap. Broken compression ring. Down into case. That's the bad news. The good news is I can see it. If I had a magnetic tipped tool, I'd be ok but I don't. So, I'm stuck until I get one...

Try a magnet with string tied around it.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #68 on:** April 10, 2011, 05:38:02 PM »

Updating... I looked all around for that piece of ring. I fished a magnet down in there and blew around with my air nozzle. Took oil pan back off too. Nothing... It didn't help that my wife swept the garage that day before I realized I was missing a piece. If it was on the floow I would never know now. I'm pretty confident it isn't down in my case.

Anyway, today I worked the electrics and brake caliper pad. The pad I bought off ebay was slightly too large and was hanging up in the backing plate. I grinded it down with a dremel tool. All good now.

Wired up a battery and figured out the neutral, oil, and turn signals lights for the instrument cluster. I found out my low beam doesn't work

Once I realized I had to ground that green lead near the coils (the coils aren't on it yet), I had my taillight and rear turn signals. So, high beam, all turn signals, horn, and turn signal buzzer all checked out.

Now waiting for my new ring set since I broke one installing it...

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #69 on:** August 19, 2011, 06:01:01 PM »

It's been a long time since I worked on this project. I ran into problems with my cam chain as described in this post: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=87518.msg983989#msg983989 I ended up buying a new cam chain after getting assurance form the seller that the chain had "219H" stamped on it. I got the same EK chain along with a "you don't know what you're talking about" response from the seller when I brought it up. I ended up trying to move the chain to get my money back but didn't find a buyer. I began to think something wasn't seating correctly in the top end (perhaps the cam chain tensioner was obstructing the top end from seating the whole way). I decided to remove the cam chain tensioner and reassemble and then the two dowels. But since I chewed up my head gasket (and probably base gasket too), I still couldn't tell if there was some kind of obstruction. Out of desperation, I pulled the new cam chain through and initially fitted it around the sprocket. It seemed to fit. I put the tensioner and dowels back in and it lined right up. A little tight but since the head gasket is chewed up I figure it will drop another 1/2 mm or so when I get a good gasket and tighten it down. But... over the sprocket and lined up with the two sprocket bolts; problem solved. I originally found the EK chain issue over on the Honda twins site. My original chain was 128 links long and I just cut it down. I don't think it was a mater of the number of links since the pitch is (should be) the same. Anyway... the project is back on.

Danno · « **Reply #70 on:** August 19, 2011, 07:14:01 PM »

diamond grit sandpaper (cubic zirconum) norton blue (norzon) on a random orbital will deglaze the disc without changing its flatness I usually follow it up with a polishing disk (coarse) for a random directional finish

kendo57 · « **Reply #71 on:** August 20, 2011, 02:48:19 AM »

I had the same cam chain problem with my 550 engine build. I was using an endless DID chain
but when i tried to put the cam sprocket back on i needed to lever it on slighty with a small screwdriver. This made the camchain very tight even with the tensioner backed off.
I can only think the pattern head/base gaskets are a little thicker than standard so i am hoping
once i run the engine and re torque the head everything will settle slightly .

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #72 on:** August 27, 2011, 09:18:11 AM »

Oh well.... So much for "progress." I bought a CB500 top end gasket set thinking I could use the head gasket on my 550 for some reason. Nope... I am relieved the cam chain issue is over though. Compression with the old head gasket was around 120 psi, so I figure with a new one and properly torqued head bolts I should be ok.

Elniniomuchachos · « **Reply #73 on:** August 27, 2011, 02:56:51 PM »

Just a tip for installing the cylinder block over the pistons. Turn the crank so that the outer pistons above the 2 and 3,place a 2x4 on top of the cylinder block, then use your finger nail to press the rings in and lightly tap the block to move the cylinders down over the pistons. This way you have less rings to worry about. The cylinder sleeves should be tapered (at least they were on mine) so it makes it much easier to get the rings in. Go slow and take your time, it will pay off in the end.

When I did my 550 motor I ended up having a major leak. Anyways... USE A SMALL AMOUNT OF GASKET SEALER ON THE STUD RUBBER "PUCKS"! It will save you a major headache. Took the head cover off, put some gasket sealer on the inside of the pucks, and no leaks

Just giving you some tips for the engine build.

-Elninio.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #74 on:** August 27, 2011, 03:20:28 PM »

I'm planning on just doing the head gasket so the jug won't have to come off. Good tip on those rubber pucks, I wouldn't have done anything with them....

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Author Topic: fmctm1sw 75 CB550K (Read 21520 times)