Topic: 1971 CB500: Project "Yokai" - Lots of Pics

[Syscrush]

Quick question.  Does anyone know where I can get plugs to plug the intake holes and exhaust?  I am just using really tightly packed towels right now but think plugs would probably be easier.

That's what you use - tight packed shop towels.

[Zaipai]

Do a search on the forums, I seem to recall some one explaining how to get the jugs off using 2 wood boards. If I find it I will post a link here for you. It wont be easy tho.. However you have it this far might as well go all the way.

Those exhaust parts look great!! What that set you back?

.: Scott :.

[joshuanagao]

Do a search on the forums, I seem to recall some one explaining how to get the jugs off using 2 wood boards. If I find it I will post a link here for you. It wont be easy tho.. However you have it this far might as well go all the way.

Those exhaust parts look great!! What that set you back?

.: Scott :.

They were $15 each so really not that expensive.  I asked the guy how much it would be to do the tappet covers though and he said since they are aluminum (and apparently much harder to nickel) that they would be 200 for the 8 caps alone!

[HedNut]

Cool Build! Just found it...and you're givin' it a good overhaul!  Those carbs were KAKA! I'm hooked in!

[Godffery]

   joshuanagao

To remove the head, you will need to make sure you have not only removed the 12 main nuts, but the 2 smaller 10mm bolts located center front and center rear; your manual should show you exactly where and what pattern to use when torking them for reassembling.
Also; from your pix, it looks like your cam chain tensioner is still in place.  You should have that out at this point. BTW; taking the load off the tensioner would have helped you remove the cam.

When cracking the head loose from the cylinders, you can use a short screwdriver or pry bar but look for an area where the fins are strongest and only apply 2 fingers worth of leverage. If it doesn't come loose with that, you've missed something.

As for the cylinder, it will require a little more force to crack that one. I use a rubber mallet in a slightly upward direction on each end of the cylinder.

For Tappet covers, check out 400FOURstore.com
http://www.400fourstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=4&Product_Code=TTR-400-044&Category_Code=E

[Zaipai]

Here is the link..

http://www.400fourstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=4&Product_Code=TTR-400-044&Category_Code=E

You need to use the icon that says Insert Hyperlink Godffery...

I think you using the one that says insert FTP link when you hover over it.. See the picture below...

[Godffery]

Thanks Zaipai.
I'm allways getting those confused.  = /

[Zaipai]

Its cool, any one with building chops like yours (see bike of the year thread) is allowed to mix up computer buttons. If you saw what I have done with some bike parts you would cringe I am sure!

 

.: Scott :.

[joshuanagao]

Did some work when I got home from work.  Not a lot but got some good things done.  I couldn't for the life of me get the jugs off so I took a screwdriver, filed it down so it was sharp and jammed it between the upper and lower sections and went to town with a hammer trying to wedge the thing off.  Finally got it!  I would say that it is looking pretty dirty but in overall good shape.  I think I am going to buy a larger bore piston kit.  Anyone know how much difference taking it to about 550cc will increase power? 







Anyone know if this will actually fit the engine? 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970s-HONDA-MOTORCYCLE-CB550-CB500-605cc-BIG-BORE-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e60217446QQitemZ130461824070QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2999wt_1167http://

If that thing will fit it is MINE!!  Just so I know what I am getting into, what parts will I have to change out by putting a large bore kit in like that? 

Here are some pics of the current pistons.  They are now out and sitting on the workbench. 

[joshuanagao]

Zaipai-

How far is Paddock Lake from Milwaukee?  I just got into the Dental School at Marquette and will need someone new to ride with!

[Godffery]

   Yes, that 605 kit will work fine; you just need to find a set of 12 heavy duty head studs to replace your old thin ones.  They should have come in that big bore kit but must be MIA.
You'll also need a good machine shop to do the cylinder sleeve swap.

   As for Milwaukee too Paddock lake; it's about 45 mi south west and I'm about 10mi from him.
If you dig vintage bikes, you'll be right at home in Mill'Town.  Check out the Mi'Vin'Moto :
http://milvinmoto.com/  

[Zaipai]

Yes Godffery is correct about 45min depending on traffic. The link is a good place to start, thanks for that Godffery (it worked!) and there are some nice twisties between here and Milwaukee..

TTYS,

.: Scott :.

[joshuanagao]

Got a chance to work in the garage for a little bit today.  I had to rip the old shocks apart, get rid of a bunch of buildup, lube those babies up, and put them back together with my new forks from Frank.  I want to buy some gold emulators from Race Tech but that may have to wait for a while.  Does anyone know if the off brand emulators like this work as well as the Race Tech ones? 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110596234745&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_829wt_892

On to the pics!  Got the front wheel mocked up on the forks.  Will have to get some rubbers on them tomorrow.  But here's how it looks so far.

[Syscrush]

Does anyone know if the off brand emulators like this work as well as the Race Tech ones?

The RT emulators cost what - $300?  So if the off-brand emulators cost only half as much, you're looking at a savings of $150.  For that amount of money, I would not roll the dice.  If they don't work well, then that means taking the front end back apart and still having to shell out the $300 for the RTCE's.

This advice is coming from a guy who has wasted lots and lots of money over the years doing this kind of penny-wise, pound-foolish thing - buying my 2nd or 3rd choice and then having to replace it when it breaks or doesn't work as advertised.  If the RTCE's really are a budget-buster, I'd suggest sticking with stock until you can manage the funds for the RTCE's.

Even if the product is comparable, the support won't be.  You can call up RT to ask any question about the install, setup, or maintenance of your forks/emulators and they'll help you out.  Well worth the money IMO.

Of course, someone else might step up and rave about one of the off-brand dealies, but I would really tend to go with the proven product on something as important to performance, comfort, and safety as suspension.

[Godffery]

Does anyone know if the off brand emulators like this work as well as the Race Tech ones?

I would not roll the dice.  If they don't work well, then that means taking the front end back apart and still having to shell out the $ for the RTCE's.
I would really tend to go with the proven product on something as important to performance, comfort, and safety as suspension.

Totally agree...!

[Tintop]

Does anyone know if the off brand emulators like this work as well as the Race Tech ones?

I would not roll the dice.  If they don't work well, then that means taking the front end back apart and still having to shell out the $ for the RTCE's.
I would really tend to go with the proven product on something as important to performance, comfort, and safety as suspension.

Totally agree...!

+1 on the RT emulators.  I had Todd at Mission Cycle near me do the install.  The shop is an RT certified installer, and has an area specifically for rebuild / testing of shocks and forks.  I supplied new tubes (Frank's), & seals, along with my old forks.  Not only did he do the disassembly, and emulator install, but he also tested, and matched the springs.  I also got instructions on pickup about adjusting compression if needed.  All for $369 cdn including tax, which I thought was a very good deal.

[Syscrush]

+1 on the RT emulators.  I had Todd at Mission Cycle near me do the install.  The shop is an RT certified installer, and has an area specifically for rebuild / testing of shocks and forks.  I supplied new tubes (Frank's), & seals, along with my old forks.  Not only did he do the disassembly, and emulator install, but he also tested, and matched the springs.  I also got instructions on pickup about adjusting compression if needed.  All for $369 cdn including tax, which I thought was a very good deal.

WOW - why the hell did I ever screw around with installing my own?  TWICE? 

[Tintop]

+1 on the RT emulators.  I had Todd at Mission Cycle near me do the install.  The shop is an RT certified installer, and has an area specifically for rebuild / testing of shocks and forks.  I supplied new tubes (Frank's), & seals, along with my old forks.  Not only did he do the disassembly, and emulator install, but he also tested, and matched the springs.  I also got instructions on pickup about adjusting compression if needed.  All for $369 cdn including tax, which I thought was a very good deal.

WOW - why the hell did I ever screw around with installing my own?  TWICE? 

We also talked about new springs.  RT spec'd 80's for my application, and the stockers are about 67/70.  Given my weight (130), he tested the stock ones, and then shimmed them to both match & and be slightly stiffer.  So his approached saved me more $'s.

[joshuanagao]

Sent the rotors out to Scott aka Formulasuper to have them drilled and deglazed.  He did an amazing job.  The centers were powdercoated before and they came back without a scratch. 



and installed on the rim.





The rims are in to get tires installed so I should have those next week sometime.  I should also have the remote oil array from Terry in Australia soon.  I also just got some clubman bars from my brother in law for christmas.  Bike is coming together!

[tweakin]

Great work, I am looking forward to seeing this one come together.

[Tintop]

That rim and disk setup looks really nice.  The drill pattern looks good in that it gets all the pad surface.  Nice build.

[joshuanagao]

Thanks TT and Tweakin.  I just hope it comes out looking half as good as your bikes do!  TT quick question, I know you got the lines from Aeroquip Startlite for your remote oil setup, did you order them from the online catalog or get them done at an Aeroquip shop in your area?  Regardless, can you give me some more info as I have my remote setup coming from Terry?  What were the lengths you used? Which hosing did you go with? 

[Tintop]

Thanks TT and Tweakin.  I just hope it comes out looking half as good as your bikes do!  TT quick question, I know you got the lines from Aeroquip Startlite for your remote oil setup, did you order them from the online catalog or get them done at an Aeroquip shop in your area?  Regardless, can you give me some more info as I have my remote setup coming from Terry?  What were the lengths you used? Which hosing did you go with? 

Hey joshuanagao thanks for the compliment on my build.  I've been assembling my own aeroquip lines for years, so making those was easy.  They are not hard to do, just need a pair of good wrenches that fit snug, so you don't mark the fittings.  I invested in an alloy set years ago, that are made specifically for these fittings, but their not necessary.  I've also got some steel ones that I've cut down, and ground thinner to get into tight spots on race cars.

I ordered all the stuff for this setup from www.murdockindustrial.com , as my usual supplier doesn't carry the Startlite hose, and the fitting(s) I needed for the oil pressure guage.  The oil lines to / from the filter are #6 (pn FBU0600).  I got 6 feet.  The line to the gauge is #4 (pn FBU0400), also got 6 feet there.  If your running a remote gauge like me, you could also use the smaller dash 3, but the hose & fitting selection is very limited.

Note that you can not mix Startlite hose with the normal Aeroquip fittings, they have their own.  I choose the Startlite because it is 45% lighter than the SS braided, and I wanted to use the black lines vs the SS.  That said, the SS braided type is easier to maintain, and more abrasion resistant.  Hope that helps, if you have any other questions, give me a PM.

tintop

[joshuanagao]

I haven't had much time to do anything on the bike but I did get out to the garage the other day to do some engine paint.  I am slowly but surely getting the paint done.  I am using the POR-15 engine paint kit that Godffery recommended in black.  It is a great kit and seems like its basically indestructible once it's on the metal and fully cured.  (It sure takes a long time to get off your hands once it is dry).  Here are some photos of the parts that I have done so far.

Speedometer assembly


Rocker Cover


Oil Pan






I have an engine bolt kit from alloyboltz.com that I will be putting on.  In addition to the other new bolts that I put on the engine.  I should be getting my wheels and tires back soon, so expect some pictures of a rolling chassis (finally!).

[joshuanagao]

Has anyone ever seen a headlight set up like this?



The dude says he put 2 LED strips inside the glass and that they function as running lights only and when you turn the headlight on that they turn off. How difficult would it be to do this?  Any ideas of where to start?