Got a work stand so you can work on the bike upright?
Which carb is leaking?
If it is an outer carb you can pull the bowl off for a look-see inside. Note that the bowl has molded stops for the float pins so they will stay in place.
Any crud in the bowl? Stand pipe cracked? If you hold the float up and turn on the gas, does it still leak fuel?
If not, how far down can you move the float before gas come out? 22mm?
Are you using the stock Honda float needles?
Some bikes leak when on side stand, but not when on the center stand. Block your stand so the bike is upright. Still leaking?
Throttle stumble:
How far are you turning the throttle to accelerate. (Not going to accelerate if you snap it wide open from idle.)
What position/turns are the air screws set to?
What air filter are you using?
What is the hand signal for a right turn?
the stand is off. The right carb is leaking now.
Um, the bike has two right carbs.
The bowls were clean when i pulled them out last nite. Two 120 pilot jets were clogged. ..i cleaned them out.
One of us is confused. The stock pilot jets are #38. How did you get 120 there?
If you meant the 120 as the main jet and it was clogged, the the smaller #38 has almost certain;y clogged, too.
Yes stock needles.
I have to ask this, mostly becasue of the lack of detail you are providing and perhaps directing toward your bike.
How do you know you have stock slide needles? Because you didn't replace them? Have you checked each spring pin for relative rebound pressure?
I turn the throttle just a bit and wants to cut out.
Was this in association with the cold head pipes or before jet cleaning?
The idle is loud and high and its still smoking the air screw meaning the rpm screw?
I dont know what this airscrew is? ?
Have you no manuals at all? Even the crapy Clymer has a picture for those on the side of each carb.
Bent elbow arm up. ...then repositon arm to its regular position.
COOL! That's right!
You are near the end of your project where details are very important to sort out all the changes you've made to the bike. There is a running commentary in engineering circles that the last 10% of the project takes 90% of the time to sort out.
You are going to have to get detail oriented to sort out the remaining issues with your project.
We can only help if you share the details. You are our eyes, ears, and trusted detail reporter.
I expect that once you have all the cylinders firing, the remaining throttle response will be corrected and possibly improved with an air screw/idle screw/pilot screw adjustment.
However, a 120
Main jet is likely too rich a mixture for your set up, once you are able to operate above 3/4 throttle position. And, I wouldn't be a bit surprised to learn that it causes the spark plugs to soot up and foul, preventing spark. Dead spark plugs are going to really interfere with fine tuning carbs for throttle response issues.
With the stock air box and paper filter, I'd expect a 105 (maybe 110) to be more in line with expectations. I'd also project that the slide needles would work well at the 4th clip position from the top, and the idle air screws set to about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from seated.
This is where *I* would start the tune process. But, I would require that all cylinders be working before doing any "fine tuning" of the carbs.
Did you check for a cracked stand pipe, yet?
Do you have ANY sort of stand to work on the bike in an upright position?
Cheers,
