Topic: Wheels not balanced and brake super firm and dragging

[Anti-Johnny]

Before I dig into the bike on my own, I need a little bit of assurance in my search ability.

My bike has had a very stiff brake lever since I got it. I never paid it much mind, but someone told me the last couple days that it shouldnt be that way. I saw in another thread that another members lever moves a little over an inch, mine perhaps a third an inch.

In my ignorance, I did not notice either that the brake seems to be touching my rotor at all times.

I have read that the clearance is very slight and that I should be able to take my piston apart and clean everything and put it back together pretty easily. Is that correct. I havent tried tapping my MC or the caliper with my rubber mallet yet. My brake fluid is clear, if that makes a difference.


I think I am going to get the wheel balancer at HF for $50, anyone have experience with this?

ok, last question. Riding on the highway, I feel very unsure of myself. not because of lack of ability, but because it feels like my rear wheel might be a bit squirrelly. Is this an indication of the bushing or bearing needing to be replaced?

I am hoping that after balancing the wheels that this last issue is cleared up. I am pretty upset that I paid someone to do it and it was not done.

[Spanner 1]

Brake dragging/stiff lever......... If you crack open the bleed nipple on the brake caliper and release a small amount of fluid and the lever softens-up some until you pull it a few times ( shut-up, perverts  ) then the return hole in the master cylinder is blocked.
Rear wheel 'squirrelly '..... that very well describes worn swingarm bushings. Put the bike on it's mainstand and grip the rear of the wheel, under the tail light and push and pull sideways firmly, any movement = worn bushings......

[seanbarney41]

a dragging brake and an unbalanced wheel are gonna make your whole bike squirrely imo...it really may be difficult to tell exactly where the squirrels are coming from!  Get rid of the known squirrels first, makes it easier to catch em all

[Anti-Johnny]

thanks guys. Ive found this motorcycle wheel balancer on Harbor Freight. Does that look like a decent investment? I cant post the link at work, but if you google "harbor freight Motorcycle wheel balancing stand" it comes up. Its like $50. has decent reviews on the HF site and on other motorcycle forums.

[Duke McDukiedook]

What Spanner said about the swingarm is good info, read the FAQ section on brakes to get info on a caliper rebuild, you will want to do this since your caliper probably hasn't been rebuilt or touched since it came from the factory.

If you paid someone and they knew what they were doing don't sweat buying a static stand quite yet, it will be a few years until you have to replace those tires if they are new.

Zero in on the swingarm and rebuilding the caliper first.

[Anti-Johnny]

I paid the guy to do it, but the bike wasnt running at the time. I was at home for winter and trailered it back. Well I noticed when we were about to leave that there were no weights or anything on the wheels. And as the guy is 450 miles away I cant really stop by and ask him if he did it. I read that pirellis usually need a few weights in at least one spot. The bumpy ride up front, I was told is indicative of unbalanced wheels?

[Duke McDukiedook]

Yeeeeeaaaaaah, if there are no weights at all on your spokes I think you might have got took.

Check to make sure your rims don't have any hop in them, you can make a makeshift static balancer stand-thing with a v-block supported off the ground to check this.

[Anti-Johnny]

i rolled by a shop on the way to work and the owner put it up on a stand and spun my front wheel. he told me it doesnt look like the wheel is trued. would this affect my handling in the way ive described? Bumpy at lower speeds around 30-40 and bad handling at higher speeds? he recommended getting comstars or mag wheels.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Bumpy ride usually means your wheel has a hop in it- bent wheel.
A wheel out of true (or dished) would get wobbly and more wobbly at higher and higher speeds.

As long as the wheel is not horribly dished tightening some spokes up will bring it to true.

[Anti-Johnny]

i havent looked yet to see how difficult it is to true. I dont have any tools for it. I have tried reading about non spoke wheel options I might have. The comstars came out in 77 right? will they fit a K? what other options for wheels do I have here?
 

[Anti-Johnny]

Brake dragging/stiff lever......... If you crack open the bleed nipple on the brake caliper and release a small amount of fluid and the lever softens-up some until you pull it a few times ( shut-up, perverts  ) then the return hole in the master cylinder is blocked.
Rear wheel 'squirrelly '..... that very well describes worn swingarm bushings. Put the bike on it's mainstand and grip the rear of the wheel, under the tail light and push and pull sideways firmly, any movement = worn bushings......

how do I unblock that hole?

I went to take my caliper off, and I guess I need to take my wheel off to get to it?


While trying to take the whole arm off, I noticed this bolt is just spinning freely. What do I do about that?



I was going to take the caliper apart and clean it up and hope that fixed the problem, but this bolt started spinning and the one beside it would only come loose about 3/4 of inch out.

So, what do I do about that and is there a trick to get the caliper off without taking the wheel off? I dont have a jack, but I guess now I have an excuse to get one.

[Duke McDukiedook]

It would be easiest removed with the wheel off.

[Really?]

Will that bolt tighten up?  I sure hope so!  You might be looking for another lower unless it is ok to mount it to the other fork or switch around the lowers and mount it to that one.  The caliper will be behind the right lower.

[Anti-Johnny]

I think its borked. I have a guy from the co op coming by tomorrow to inspect it. Its only gonna cost me a couple beers.

So I am looking into a tap and die set and a helicoil just in case.

I should have gone by autozone for the hex ratchet attachment.

Starting to think I picked too delicate of a bike to learn on. Or I might be a bit of a moron 

Ill make sure to spraypaint it pink before I put it on Craigslist so no one here recognizes me.

[Really?]

Forget the pink, just bring it to my house and leave the delicate thing here.


PS.  bring the title with you. 

[DYSKORD]

No need to take the wheel off or arm. Just unbolt caliper from arm. Mine (F model) is two 17mm on caliper A side passing through arm and then threading into caliper B.

If you need some help rebuilding it and are in Austin ever, hit me up. I have the necessary assembly lube and Dow grease. Just bring some Lone Star or other "party favors."