Author Topic: FFJMOORE CB550 BIG bore engine build. (Read 82608 times)

bwaller · « **Reply #275 on:** June 08, 2012, 03:56:15 PM »

Quote from: ffJMoore on June 07, 2012, 11:44:51 PM

A member on another forum suggested to
Quote
"counter-bore oil feeds in block and head and fit hollow dowels, then use slightly larger diameter 'o' ring.It cures all the oil leak problems when 'o' rings get hard"

Has anybody done this or have any reason why it would be a bad idea?

I believe I remember TT saying he doweled the head/cylinder oil passage. Makes sense to me and there S/B enough material in that area of both parts.

crazypj · « **Reply #276 on:** June 08, 2012, 05:20:13 PM »

I did mine around 1980.
It cures the oil leak problem

Flying J · « **Reply #277 on:** June 08, 2012, 05:24:33 PM »

I would like to try it but i don't want to dump any more money and machine work into this thing. When i rebuild my other 550 i think I'll give that a shot. i have a small mill but lack the abilities at this point.

crazypj · « **Reply #278 on:** June 08, 2012, 07:13:56 PM »

If you measure the oil way in end of block, I think it's just under 3/16"?
Bolt block to head, run 3/16" extra long drill through from bottom to make sure everything is lined up, counter bore for dowel same as the ones on alternator cover, half in head, half in block then use end mill to make recess for "o' ring
The dowels on rear studs will keep everything in correct position.
The amount of stuff you've learned doing the motor so far, I doubt you'll have any issues doing this, it really is as simple as it sounds
It doesn't have to be super high precision, the dowel is to support the 'O' ring rather than locate block/head

Flying J · « **Reply #279 on:** June 08, 2012, 09:18:59 PM »

OK, i think i might try this.
I need
PIN, DOWEL (8X14)
94301-08140
so i then need a 8mm end mill bit.
and a 8x? o-ring.

I will try and go to buy bits Monday. I need a few for my accelerator pump conversion project as well.

This is basically the mill I have. I'm sure i do not even come close to using its full potential.

crazypj · « **Reply #280 on:** June 09, 2012, 11:03:03 AM »

I thought the dowels were 7mm but it's so long ago............................

Get the 'O' ring first so you know OD.
You can use 5/16 ID, may be easier to find?
have about 0.015" 'crush on 'O' ring, the square counter bore provides an area to allow it to 'grow'
BTW, that's the same mill I have, it will do a LOT of stuff when you get it adjusted then acquire the tooling (gets expensive real quick, there's always something new you 'NEED"

)

Flying J · « **Reply #281 on:** June 09, 2012, 10:02:00 PM »

The mill is my dads. He didnt have room at his new place so I said i would store it for him. He used it mostly for wood projects. I have no machine expierance but have read a little on the web and played with it enough to drill holes and surface things. The only tooling i have for it is a half dozen end mills, a clamp set, 1 vise. The vise doesnt have a worm gear to lock in the work. You slide it together to hold the work and then pull down an arm that locks it tight. What would you suggest i get? What is the basic beginner building blocks?

I have milled my forks.

I have milled my side covers

I have milled my triples

and done a bunch of handle bars for running wires.

SO the thing has been incredibly useful and i would love to know how to better use it. I just dont have any machine shop friends locally and there are no classes to take either. I think the one thing i need to do is figure out how to get the drill chuck off and get a proper chuck/collet for the end mills. I have just been running them in the drill chuck.

Oh and the one i have is a Rong Fu. Such a funny name.

Raef · « **Reply #282 on:** June 10, 2012, 06:27:48 AM »

the side cover is very cool

crazypj · « **Reply #283 on:** June 10, 2012, 08:57:37 AM »

Have quill all the way to top
Pull the plastic cap off the top, use a 19mm combination wrench to loosen the draw bolt (probably need to use a dead blow hammer to loosen it.
Unscrew about 1/8" and give bolt a smack downwards to loosen drill chuck shank.
Hopefully you have R8 mount.
If you have MT taper shank it may not come loose, there will be a slot in the quill for a tapered removal tool, you have to put quill all the way down and rotate spindle by hand for all the slots to line up
I use collet to hold end mills rather than 'proper' mill holders
http://www.victornet.com/report/Collets-R8/263.html

Flying J · « **Reply #284 on:** June 11, 2012, 01:54:47 PM »

Those collets are cheap. I bought local and paid $27 each

crazypj · « **Reply #285 on:** June 11, 2012, 03:05:44 PM »

I'm always broke so have to find cheap stuff

Did the new tach plug get there yet?
I want to see it fitted (to make sure it fits

)

Flying J · « **Reply #286 on:** June 11, 2012, 04:43:48 PM »

The shop didnt have one of the 2 collets i needed to mill my carbs and the one that they had wont go in. The other 2 i bought fit. Im going to take 2 of the collets back tomorrow and order some online.
I tried using the drill chuck with my 7/64 end mill but it wobbles so much that the hole is way bigger then 7/64. I hope that the collet will fix that.

The plug came today. Not sure how im going to fasten it on there.

Flying J · « **Reply #287 on:** June 11, 2012, 06:07:03 PM »

I picked up the sleeves for the cylinders and some o rings. The o rings were 8x2mm or 8x3mm. The 2mm OD is 12mm and the 3mm OD is 14. So i guess ill go with the 2mm.
So it looks like I will need an 8MM and 12MM end mill. Also from what i have found online I think a 1.5mm O-ring grove depth will be sufficient

.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #288 on:** June 11, 2012, 11:24:43 PM »

Simple way to retain the tach gear plug would be with a tab that is covering the center or the tapered edge of the plug and is secured by the tach cable securing screw hole. Just shim/collar the retaining screw shaft to provide a little offset for the tab...don't need a lot of pressure to retain the plug. Just need enough to hold it in place.

dave500 · « **Reply #289 on:** June 11, 2012, 11:51:09 PM »

or just use a small freeze plug.

crazypj · « **Reply #290 on:** June 12, 2012, 09:27:43 AM »

It's tapped 8mm, use a bolt and washer inside.
You may have to make thick washer with a taper to match head casting?
Another way of doing it would be make an expander and use Allen bolt into the recess.
If you get stuck I'll make something, it's been a bit experimental as I've never made a tach plug for a 550 before this

Flying J · « **Reply #291 on:** June 12, 2012, 10:34:23 AM »

If you want I have a junk cover. I could cut the tach plug section out and send it to you.

Flying J · « **Reply #292 on:** June 12, 2012, 10:50:40 AM »

I milled down a sock tach housing. It looks like i could tap it with an 8mm to plug the hole. Just use some lock tight to seal it up. Might look good with a SS button head in there.

jiggliemon · « **Reply #293 on:** June 12, 2012, 04:08:59 PM »

That little Grizzly is doing alright isn't it?

brandEn · « **Reply #294 on:** June 12, 2012, 04:55:48 PM »

I love this thread. Subscribed. I think you have inspired me to do a similar thread for my K4 rebuild...

Flying J · « **Reply #295 on:** June 12, 2012, 07:02:02 PM »

Im glad i could be an inspiration. If i can inspire you to not have as many issues as i have had that would be even better.

I ordered a bunch of mill stuff today. Some collets, mill bits and some v-blocks. Also got a 8mm tap to tap the tach cable plug. We shall see how that looks.

I have done a little reading on the mil/drill. Looks like a common problem is that the top is not in alignment/ level with the table. I checked mine and it seems that it is off roughly .0003 over an inch. doesnt sound like much but over a 12" head if you were to mill it flat would be off almost .004 from one side to the other.

crazypj · « **Reply #296 on:** June 12, 2012, 08:53:55 PM »

It shouldn't be cumulative, the 0.0003"should be roughly constant.
How did you check?
Indicator mounted in collet?
I made a fixture to hold DTI on a 4" radius arm
Try tightening the head clamping bolts in different sequence, they only need about 14~16 ft lbs
You may have to shim under the column, I ended up with a piece of paper under one 'corner' plus adjust torque on bolts to get things 'square'

Flying J · « **Reply #297 on:** June 12, 2012, 09:34:35 PM »

I just used a harbor freight dial gauge on the mounting arm. Stuffed it in a drill chuck. It was about 4.5 long, so 9" from side to side and was off by .003. This was a rough measurement.

goldarrow · « **Reply #298 on:** June 12, 2012, 10:27:05 PM »

and that 650 cam in the mail should fit nicely to negate some of the problems you've had.

Flying J · « **Reply #299 on:** June 12, 2012, 10:29:20 PM »

That is going in my next build. Where i will attempt to salvage the Gentlmans express pistons. Did you get all the other goodies off that bike?

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Author Topic: FFJMOORE CB550 BIG bore engine build. (Read 82608 times)