3. Air filter has about 2,500 miles on it
A bit early for this to be a problem. But, can't rule it out quite yet. The paper filters work by trapping dirt, etc. and in the process become more restrictive. This acts as partial choke making the mixture progressively richer as it traps dirt. Usually the paper filter is back blown by compressed air at 3000 miles and replaced at 6000. This schedule, of course, gets reduced if operating in dusty conditions and certainly if wet, humid and dusty as the dirt gets "glued" in and back blowing is ineffective. You'll have to assess your current filter. One test is to temporarily remove it to see how that effects your symptoms.
4. Spark plug centers are just kind of sooty but not too bad at all
This is a pretty good indication of running too rich, particularly after a 160 mile trip at cruise speeds, it should be tan to light tan.
I forgot to ask what your plug numbers are. If you've got D8EA in the bike, the heat range is probably too cold for the plugs to self clean properly. If NGK Brand, they should be D7EA.
5. Carbs gone through before I owned it about a year ago at 3,050 miles
Any idea if they were just cleaned or a "kit" of some sort used that replaced internal components besides the rubber bits? Just wondering if throttle valve needles for a K bike were put in, or different mains, etc. I'm assuming the bike in your avatar is the topic bike, an F model. Specific kits for these aren't the easiest to find. Other possibilities include internal emulsion tubes not properly cleaned.
Do you happen to know what the Idle Air Bleed screws are set at? Should be about 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.
Just to put your mind at ease, it's unlikely you have a serious problem with your bike. Nonetheless, it can be made better and will probably make better power after correction.
Cheers,