Author Topic: Idle stop screws not on my replacement carb  (Read 943 times)

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Offline egar

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Idle stop screws not on my replacement carb
« on: May 19, 2011, 03:38:26 PM »
I found a later model set of carbs to replace my KO four-cable setup for my 1970 750. Funny thing is there's no idle stop screws on the sides of the carbs. I unscrewed one from the KO but it didn't screw into the carbs. As if there is no thread. The carbs were sold as 73-75 model, but are marked with magic marker as 76. Should there be stop screws or are they different on later years? Anybody?
sohc4

'04 ST1300, '70 cb750KO

Offline gane

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Re: Idle stop screws not on my replacement carb
« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2011, 06:23:23 PM »
Egar, Your' new carbs (@ '71-76) instead of having individual cables  to operate slides have a rod to which (via linkages) all slides are connected. This rod has a single "Idle adjust screw". (actually "knob"). sync is accomplished via the linkages at the rods exiting the top of carb bodies. 2 Massive improvements you'll note are,  once synce'd, they'll stay there....almost indefinitely... & 2nd, all slides will both start, & top out simotaniously. ( a far cry from your' old cable carbs which were never truely in sync at more than 1 opening..  There were/are slight differences  in 71-76 carb bodies, & they'r "racks", relax, they'll all work.. experiance is that the hardest part is getting the carb top "center"pieces aligned so that everybody's happy & slides "snap" closed when 'released". after a thorough cleaning, & backing off the "gang" idle adjust screw, just look  thru

Offline gane

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Re: Idle stop screws not on my replacement carb
« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2011, 06:52:27 PM »
carb throats & adjust "til a "similar' sliver of light is evident at all carb body/slides.   At this point, the bike probly wouldn't support life, but, is much quicker than fiddling with matching raise w/drill bits or other means, & insures you begin settings at a point where you can cut-off rpms before you run out of "idle adjust".  install carbs , fire, adjust idle to @ 1k rpms & vac. sync. At this point,  once up to temp, if able, you can EGA/Morgan tune for optimum "idle fuel mix", re-check sync, (yes, it'll change).  optimum #'s on EGA at idle are @ 3.00% co, & less than 700 PPM Hc.  Or whatever the Morgan tune shows as color,,,,   EGA at cruise will drop (usually) to  around 1% co, with (hopefully) less than 600 PPM HC.   Hope something here helps.. luck g

Offline egar

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Re: Idle stop screws not on my replacement carb
« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2011, 01:58:30 PM »
Gane,


I feel like an idiot. I checked my shop manuals and found the stop screw. The head was broken off so I replaced it with a nice stainless metric screw from Ace Hardware. Spent the day cleaning the carbs - done so many now that I feel like a pro. I realized the stop screw is similar to the setup on my 77 and 78 550s that I built in the past. Am taking a break now but will install the new carbs and the single cable tomorrow. I pray that this will solve all the problems I'm having with the horrible four-cable system. I'm dying to ride the bike regularly but the the current KO carbs are awful.
sohc4

'04 ST1300, '70 cb750KO

Offline 70CB750

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Re: Idle stop screws not on my replacement carb
« Reply #4 on: May 21, 2011, 02:39:38 PM »
You got a beauty there, see my avatar what some PO did to mine K0
Prokop
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