Topic: I stripped out 2 phillips head bolts what now?

[walnut777]

I was trying to pull the cover where the gear selector is on my 77 cb750k. Two of the phillips heads stripped out and my dang dog took off with one of the bolts and I cant find it.
My brother works for oreilly auto and he said that have a took that will get out stripped phillips heads.

I was trying to remove the cover b/c I wanted to look for any obvious damage. Theres some noise coming from that area while the bike is moving. The bike sat 4 7 years until this week. I lubed the chain, I thought maybe it was the chain being dry as all get out.

Any idea where to start? The noise concerns me.

Things that were done to the bike before I began to ride it were: 4 new carb kits, new oil n filter, air filter, fresh gas , clean tank, new plugs, new points.

[TwoTired]

You really should get yourself one of these.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

[VTCBike750]

and one of these

http://www.google.com/search?q=pro+grabit&hl=en&tbs=shop%3A1&aq=f

[camelman]

Cut a slot in the screw head and use the flat driver attachment on an impact driver to remove the stripped screws. You can get replacements at ace hardware. They are in the box titled "cheese head screws"... no joke.

[CycleRanger]

"The dog ran off with my bolts." 

Boy, if I had a nickle for every time I've heard that story! 

[Rgconner]

"The dog ran off with my bolts." 

Boy, if I had a nickle for every time I've heard that story! 

Well, at least he did not run away with your nuts!

[MCRider]

AS best you can centerpunch whats left of the screw head. Get a really sharp drill bit the size of the head. Drill the head off.

With the head off, the cover will come off over the shaft of the screw. Once its off you can grab the shaft of the screw and turn it out, likely fairly easily. The stick usually occurs between the bottom of the head of and the cover. There will be a little stick on the threads, but not so much.

I saw your other thread. There's not much behind that cover to see. Nothing moves as the bike is moving to make a noise.

[mjstone]

You really should get yourself one of these.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

+1  That one even has a nice rubber grip and hand shield.  It'll be the best $7 you could spend for your bike. 

MJ

[Coyote13]

My vote for the origin of your "noise" is gonna be a loose chain.  Thing will slap around on your chain guard, center stand, and inside the case, sounds like high holy hell.  Ask me how I know.

[Duanob]

AS best you can centerpunch whats left of the screw head. Get a really sharp drill bit the size of the head. Drill the head off.

With the head off, the cover will come off over the shaft of the screw. Once its off you can grab the shaft of the screw and turn it out, likely fairly easily. The stick usually occurs between the bottom of the head of and the cover. There will be a little stick on the threads, but not so much.

I saw your other thread. There's not much behind that cover to see. Nothing moves as the bike is moving to make a noise.

+1 We do it all the time at work when well box screws get stripped. I've done it before on my bike. Unless you have a lot corrosion you should be able to get the rest of the screw out with a pair of pliers once you take the cover off no problem.

[cameron]

+2 on drilling it out. Here is a step b step for the searchers:

HOW TO PROPERLY REMOVE YOUR SHIFTER SIDE COVER THE FIRST TIME:

1. Buy a new set of hex-bolts for that cover.
http://www.stainlesscycle.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=46_47_49  <--- my rec on a source.

2. Remove the old bolts:
-- DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER.
a. Start out using an impact driver. I think it works better when the engine is HOT, due to the different expansion ratios of the aluminum and the steel.. but that might be bull#$%*.
b. For the ones that are stuck: just drill the heads off. Trust me. The screw is frozen to the SURFACE of your side cover.. the threads themselves should be perfectly fine.
c. Once you screwed off the heads (which can be done with a crappy cordless drill and the right sized bits. start small. work bigger. go slow. no reverse bits needed) the cover will slide off right over them. At this point you PROBABLY will be able to twist the posts out with your fingers.. but if not, use grips, like McRider said.

3. Replace with new fasteners.
Use this if you love the next owner:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEOLO/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001HW6QA8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TH0TH5DGTZ7CRMBH22B

That is all.

And as stated, the only reasons to do this are to :
1. Change the oil seal because your shaft is leaking
2. change your front sprocket
3. catastrophe.

Which is why they are always frozen. No one has been in there in 30 years.

[walnut777]

Thanks for all the comments. I picked up this neat little drill bit at Ace Hardware for 5 bucks. Its an extractor, looks like the ones in this pic except for I only bought a single bit.
 http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8440P-Grabit-Damaged-Extractor/dp/B001A4CWHO

It worked great!
Thanks again for all the replies.

Im gonna check on the chain.
How do u know whats too tight and whats too loose on these bikes?

[CycleRanger]

I'm gonna check on the chain.
How do you know what's too tight and what's too loose on these bikes?

You can download the owners manual and shop manuals here:

http://www.honda4fun.com/libretti/libretti.html

http://www.honda4fun.com/man_officina/man_officina.html

The owners manual has instructions for proper chain adjustment.

[MCRider]

I have slight problems with many instructions from manuals. For instance in the owners manual referenced above, there is no mention if the slack should be inspected and adjusted with weight on or off the bike. It makes a difference. If you adjust the chain on the centerstand, the most convenient way it almost certainly will be too tight. The wheel travels thru an arc which moves the wheel away from the engine as the wheel travels up.

IMO, you must adjust the chain with weight on the bike, at a position where it will be at when you are riding. This is extremely difficult. I do it once, with a helper, then make a note of the slack when on the centerstand, which will be more like 1.5"+. Use that as your centerstand bogie from then on.

[Duanob]

"IMO, you must adjust the chain with weight on the bike," Another discussion up for debate? Like you said the Honda manual does not make reference but IMHO you can't really make the adjustments with weight on the rear wheel so I make mine with the bike on the center stand. Seems logical to me. Haven't had any troubles yet.

[ak58lp]

You can download the owners manual and shop manuals here:

http://www.honda4fun.com/libretti/libretti.html

http://www.honda4fun.com/man_officina/man_officina.html

The owners manual has instructions for proper chain adjustment.

Bummer no CB650 Shop Manual. Never saw that link before.

[CycleRanger]

You can download the owners manual and shop manuals here:

http://www.honda4fun.com/libretti/libretti.html

http://www.honda4fun.com/man_officina/man_officina.html

The owners manual has instructions for proper chain adjustment.

Bummer no CB650 Shop Manual. Never saw that link before.

There are links to CB650 manuals here:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17788.0

[TwoTired]

IMO, you must adjust the chain with weight on the bike, at a position where it will be at when you are riding.

I must agree.
It has to do with the swing arm geometry and it's pivot point a distance from the front sprocket center.
The swing arc of the axle changes the distance between front and rear sprocket.

If you are using over long shocks, just rider weight will not maximize the front to rear sprocket distance.  Meaning that during bumps or high g forces that squat the frame, the chain can become too tight during those events.  So, on modded bikes, you may have to compress the shock with MORE THAN rider weight during adjustment, to ensure the chain NEVER binds.

Cheers,

[walnut777]

i read these posts today. i adjusted my chain yesterday. it did it on the stand. i had 3/4 inch of slack. 
today i was at the store and this guy was admiring my bike. he reached down and grabbed the chain and it had hardly any slack.
I think im going to readjust it but this time with weight on it.

[bollingball]

Two large eye-bolts in the shop floor on each side of bike raise the seat run 2in ratchet strap over frame rails tighten strap adj. chain works fine. When done remove bolts so as not to stump your toe.

                               Ken

[japscrap]

one thing that nobody has hit on here is that the screws on these bikes ARE NOT PHILLIPS HEADS!
They are Japanese Industry Standard screws that require the special JIS screw drivers.
the reason you stripped them out is that your screw driver doesnt seat all the way down into the screw.
american standard screw drivers have a longer point on them taking away  from how much of the four edges actually grab and make contact with the edges of the screw head.

best thing to do unless you are dead set on factory look is to replace all engine bolts with allen socket heads,very hard to strip. or just order a set of JIS drivers at napa.

[MCRider]

"IMO, you must adjust the chain with weight on the bike," Another discussion up for debate? Like you said the Honda manual does not make reference but IMHO you can't really make the adjustments with weight on the rear wheel so I make mine with the bike on the center stand. Seems logical to me. Haven't had any troubles yet.

try this test: Adjust your chain to suit you. Have someone sit on the bike. Check the tension. Dollars to donuts its too tight. You won't have any "troubles" as the cush drive will allow the bike to operate, but there will be way too much pull on the drive and the wheel bearings.

Try it and let us know.

[MCRider]

This sublect has come up a few times, JIS v ISO. My opinion arises from personal experience and observation as well as a lot of reading. Here's one article discussing a few of the things I will discuss.
http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/

First JIS screwdrivers will fit ISO but not the other way around. Hence if one pus a JIS in a 6mm Phillips and it works one may think its a JIS screw, but not necessarily and I believe since 1966, not likely. I was working in the Honda parts dept at the time and there was quite a lot of chatter about JIS v ISO. Essentially, to make it easier on American mechanics, Honda went ISO on the 6mm and up screws. The 5mm and smaller remain JIS.

There is a recessed dot or a raised dot on the head of JIS hardware. These can be seen on the 5mm and smaller scews like float bowl screws, the screw that holds the tach cable in, instrument scres etc. ISO drivers have difficulty with these.

There are no dots on the 6mm screws however. It is my opinion that these are ISO screws and regular ISO drivers are fine. I've never had a problem with ISO drivers in the proper screw. If you want to buy just one set of drivers, get JIS I suppose. AS I said, JIS drivers will fit both JIS and ISO screws. ISO drivers fit only ISO screws.

But if you have an ISO screw which i think the 6mm are (no dot), then ISO drivers will work fine. OCICBW but I don't think so.

No dot = not JIS