I Just laced my first rim... Too me three tries to get it right. I was lucky since I had a wheel already laced to use as a pattern. My mistake was not taking the "model" wheel off the bike. I was lacing the wheel in one room and walking out to the bike for reference. After two missteps, I finally got smart and took the wheel off the bike and set it right next to the wheel I was lacing.
If you don't have a model to work from, it's helpful to take lots of pictures before you disassemble the wheel. I read several articles on building wheels. These are the two I found most helpful:
http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.htmlhttp://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-wheels/spoke-wheels/The first site deals with building bicycle wheels, but does an excellent job of explaining the basic procedures for a "cross-three" spoke pattern, which is the pattern on the front wheel of my CB750.
The rear wheel is a "cross-two"pattern, and that's what the second article talks about. More importantly, this article addresses how to get the offset correct, if an offset is needed.
I tried truing the wheel without using a truing stand, and found it quite difficult. I ended up buying a balancing stand from Harbor Freight for $50, and found it worked quite well for truing. I started off using bent coat hanger wire, and after I got close, changed to a dial position indicator with a magnetic base.
Oh, one other lesson that I don't think either article mentioned. If you order your spokes from Buchanans. they will come in two packages of 20 each. One package will be "inside" spokes the other "outside" spokes. The difference is in the length of the bend at the head of the spoke. The inside spokes have a shorter bend.
That was the first mistake I made. I didn't realize there would be any difference between the two packages, and just happened to open the outside spokes package first. Since the bends were slightly longer, they worked just fine on the inside, and it was only after I had put all 20 inside spokes in place and started on the outside spokes that I realized my mistake. Using the shorter bends on the outside resulted in the spokes binding in the holes on the hub and not moving far enough down to get them in the holes on the rim.
Another insight. The inside spokes go in relatively easily. so do the first few outside spokes. But, before long, you have to start bending the spokes to get them into the holes in the rim. And, since you are working with your fingers, you'll find that it takes a lot of muscle to bend the spokes (at least it did for me). At this point, if you have painted rims (or in my case alloy rims) it's very easy to scratch the rim. You might want to use several layers of masking tape on the rim to protect it.
Also, be sure you have a good spoke wrench. It takes a lot of wrenching, and it's fairly easy to round of the nipples. Buchanans sells good wrenches. They are a little expensive, but of high quality, and if you buy your spokes from them, you can be sure you'll get the right size wrench. (who knew there were so many different size nipples.
I hope this helps.
