Author Topic: 550K fork seal replacement question (Read 4424 times)

RAWNOG · « **on:** September 07, 2011, 08:52:02 AM »

I called a local shop about replacing the seal and the guy said id have to replace the fork bushings... this is the first ive heard of these bushings. Does this model bike, 550k, have em?

bryanj · « **Reply #1 on:** September 07, 2011, 09:32:09 AM »

Man's talking out of his Ars*, only the 750 has bushings, find a mechanic who knows what he is doing

RAWNOG · « **Reply #2 on:** September 07, 2011, 10:34:26 AM »

AHa thanks Bryan, his info didnt add up.

cameron · « **Reply #3 on:** September 07, 2011, 11:57:43 AM »

do it yourself. I just did mine in my apartment living room. Literally 2 days ago.
It is easy.

And no.. no bushings.

Do it yourself.

Parts needed: replacement seals (2)
copper crush washers (4)
ATF Fluid (320cc)

Tools needed:
Socket set.
6mm hex wrench.
1 broomstick (maybe)
inside circlip pliers (MAYBE.. I didnt need them)
Some locktite (optional, IMO)

cameron · « **Reply #4 on:** September 07, 2011, 12:01:16 PM »

Howto #1
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=89303.0

Broomstick Howto:
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/frkng/frkng.htm

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #5 on:** September 07, 2011, 12:02:54 PM »

Quote from: bryanj on September 07, 2011, 09:32:09 AM

Man's talking out of his Ars*, only the 750 has bushings, find a mechanic who knows what he is doing

I didn't know the 750 had bushings either.

RAWNOG · « **Reply #6 on:** September 07, 2011, 12:07:13 PM »

Where can I get those washers?

cameron · « **Reply #7 on:** September 07, 2011, 04:54:19 PM »

wherever you get parts?

Here is the fiche for your front end, I think.
FYI.. it looks like you will need cir-clip pliers...

The parts in question are parts #40 and #41. Those plus the oil seals (part #42) should all be replaced to prevent leaks. You MIGHT get away with not replacing them . . but for $4, why risk it? If you REALLY wanna be thorough.. replace part #60, as well. It is rubber. Total? about $14 each side in OEM parts.

As for source.. I like these guys:
http://www.powersportspro.com/pages/OemParts#/Honda/CB550K_A_(76)_MOTORCYCLE%2c_JPN%2c_VIN%23_CB550K-1230001/STEERING_STEM_%2b_FRONT_FENDER/CB550K-76-JPN-A/2Y133740F13374003B

BUT dont seem to have your bike listed. They have the 1976 version, though.. which appears to have the same part numbers.. but use at your own risk.

RAWNOG · « **Reply #8 on:** September 07, 2011, 09:09:27 PM »

Thanks man

RAWNOG · « **Reply #9 on:** September 07, 2011, 10:16:08 PM »

Oil seals will be arriving this afternoon. I'll try to take some pictures of the process, maybe someone will catch a wrong move before my wheel falls off.

bryanj · « **Reply #10 on:** September 08, 2011, 03:57:00 AM »

Early 750 had bushes, later ones with the newer caliper mount don't so that means the man REALLY was talking kerap

cameron · « **Reply #11 on:** September 08, 2011, 11:49:59 AM »

Seriously.. the BIGGEST pita is un-freezing that bottom 6mm hex bolt.
If you can do it on the bike.. great.
If not.. the broom handle is your friend.

The 2nd biggest PITA.. popping out the seal itself. Just push hard... it will go.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #12 on:** September 08, 2011, 12:31:01 PM »

Break the bolt when the forks are still on the bike- easy-peasy.

vames · « **Reply #13 on:** September 08, 2011, 12:38:37 PM »

As mentioned, loosen the bottom 6mm hex bolt before you undo the caps and pull the springs.

For the seals themselves, the cheapo seal remover tool is your friend. I got mine at my local pep boys, made by lisle.

Dip the seal end of the fork in boiling water for a few minutes before you pull. It'll come out like butter.

Use the old seal to protect the new seal when you're beating it into place with a soft hammer.

RAWNOG · « **Reply #14 on:** September 08, 2011, 02:00:19 PM »

Thanks a lot everyone, this job should be a cinch!

Quote

Use the old seal to protect the new seal when you're beating it into place with a soft hammer.

ACE INFO

Gordon · « **Reply #15 on:** September 08, 2011, 03:17:02 PM »

Get a short length of 2" PVC pipe from the hardware store to drive the seals into place.

cameron · « **Reply #16 on:** September 08, 2011, 05:03:08 PM »

Quote from: Industrial-sized Dukiedook on September 08, 2011, 12:31:01 PM

Break the bolt when the forks are still on the bike- easy-peasy.

Definately do this IF YOU CAN. I couldn't. . I needed to hit the thing with some wd40 for a few minutes, and upside down wasn't cutting it. But if you can.. do.

Quote from: Gordon on September 08, 2011, 03:17:02 PM

Get a short length of 2" PVC pipe from the hardware store to drive the seals into place.

I used the old seals and a rubber mallet..... if you wanna use pipe it is more like 1.5" (though that was A HAIR too big for mine)

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #17 on:** September 08, 2011, 05:04:14 PM »

CB550 Fork Seals

^ this is not me but ya there is an actual tutorial on youtube lol the interweb is infinite

Gordon · « **Reply #18 on:** September 08, 2011, 05:43:49 PM »

Quote from: cameron on September 08, 2011, 05:03:08 PM

if you wanna use pipe it is more like 1.5" (though that was A HAIR too big for mine)

You're right. I just double checked the pipe I use and it's 1.5".

RAWNOG · « **Reply #19 on:** September 08, 2011, 07:06:03 PM »

I've studied that video, watched and paused watched and paused watched and paused, and tomorrow I will begin the process as the seals and fork boots arrived today. I just have one thing stopping me from being able to fire her up after the seals, and thats my RH control wiring. Bryan says the black/red wire from my control goes to the LH control but there are no matching connections.

RAWNOG · « **Reply #20 on:** September 09, 2011, 11:54:12 AM »

Talk about pitting, the top of these things look like they survived a nuke. The right fork was full of water but the left has a nice black fork oil, so im guessing the rights seal was in worse condition.

RAWNOG · « **Reply #21 on:** September 09, 2011, 12:14:19 PM »

I cant get the hex out...

cameron · « **Reply #22 on:** September 09, 2011, 05:34:15 PM »

This is what I did.

Pulled the thing
removed oil, springs, etc
flipped her upside down
put some WD40 on there to soak in a little.
wait 10 min
grab broomstick.
jammed the whole thing in (i didnt cut it)
propped it up vertical, with the other end of the stick on the floor... leaned ALL my weight onto the thing and twisted with a regular hand-style 6mm allen wrench.
It spun at first, but with some cursing it finally went.

Cutting the bromstick soas to use the lever of the endcap would probably be better.

RAWNOG · « **Reply #23 on:** September 09, 2011, 06:08:16 PM »

alright, I went bought a vice (needed anyway) and clamped that sob in, which got the left one out but the right one keeps spinning as you said. I cursed and kept spinning and Im hoping the PO didnt strip it out somehow.

bryanj · « **Reply #24 on:** September 10, 2011, 03:13:18 AM »

If you really can not jam it with the broomstick take an 8mm drill bit and drill into the hex hole till the head comes off then the damper will come out and you can remove the remaining piece of bolt carfull in the vice with molegrips, but get a new bolt and washer first

johnrdupree · « **Reply #25 on:** September 10, 2011, 04:58:05 AM »

RAWNOG, read this: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=84133.msg948284#msg948284

It's a "special tool" I made when taking apart my forks. The damper rod had a pin in the top and this tool engages that pin to keep the rod from spinning. Beats the broom stick method hands down. Since you already have one apart you can use that damper rod to make sure your tool will grab the pin.

Good Luck,
~john

cameron · « **Reply #26 on:** September 10, 2011, 09:31:05 AM »

Quote from: RAWNOG on September 09, 2011, 06:08:16 PM

alright, I went bought a vice (needed anyway) and clamped that sob in, which got the left one out but the right one keeps spinning as you said. I cursed and kept spinning and Im hoping the PO didnt strip it out somehow.

Still stuck? Tell me you finally got it?

RAWNOG · « **Reply #27 on:** September 10, 2011, 09:49:49 AM »

Got it

cameron · « **Reply #28 on:** September 10, 2011, 04:50:57 PM »

HA HA!

What was the trick?

RAWNOG · « **Reply #29 on:** September 10, 2011, 06:48:58 PM »

Viced it, hit it with a ratchet and an allen bit. Now on to the new problem... my front brake is not responding at all when pulled in.

cameron · « **Reply #30 on:** September 10, 2011, 08:08:11 PM »

spring adjusted correctly?

RAWNOG · « **Reply #31 on:** September 10, 2011, 09:12:38 PM »

not sure, but i just went in there and tightened up the flathead that holds the caliper in place. Im pretty sure its the adjuster youre talking about, with the spring on the other side.

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Author Topic: 550K fork seal replacement question (Read 4424 times)