Topic: Electrrical and me dont play nice

[78 k550]

Hey All,
Tore my handle bars off and now trying to find new controls because the ones I have don't seem to work. I'm about to give up on this POS. I think I'm going to put a complete harness in and switch from the bullet conectors to the spade type. I know this doesnt find my short but I cant find it. I broke the start button wire and not sure how it is going to go back on. This is getting to be a real pain in my a$$. My 750F wont fire at the points so I cant get that going. I'm reall starting to hate this.

Paul

[78 k550]

At my headlight bucket should my Blk/Wht wire be grounding?

[scondon]

At my headlight bucket should my Blk/Wht wire be grounding?

No. The blk/wht from the run switch connects to another blk/wht in the headlight shell then runs to the coils where it has a double connection to feed both coils. I think that's what you're asking, right? Or is this a multimeter question.

  Either way, chin up. At first it's a mess of wires leading everywhere but eventually it begins to make perfect sense(or so I'm told ).

  The run switch is a simple design where a metal plate(spring loaded) slides across two points and connects them when the switch is in the "on" position. Damage to the spring or plate or excessive build up of gunk can cause the connection to fail. You can remove the red switch by opening the control and taking off the clamp washer that holds it in place. Be careful when doing this as there is a small spring,metal plate, and ball bearing(if memory serves) that may fall out when switch is removed. You can then make the connection by laying a piece of metal across the two exposed posts.

  I've fixed a couple of non-starting bikes where this was the problem. Don't know if it's the source of your troubles but may be worth a look.

[78 k550]

On my 77 750F do I need to jump an neutral switch or something else? I have the red and black crossed and the right control plugged into the harness. It crank's over the starter but nothing at the points. What else can it be?

Paul

[TwoTired]

The black and wht wire is power to your ignition coils from your Off-Run-Off switch.  It should either be powered to +12V, or if either points are closed, and the ignition switch or the Off-Run-Off switch are off, then you will read ground due to points closure.

Stick some sort of insulator between both points sets and with ignition off, check for continuity to frame ground. If there is, find where it is grounding.  If it is open, then your problems lie elsewhere.

As I sense a bit of frustration in your posts,  I'll offer a bit of troubleshooting philosophy, learned through 40+ years of electrical probing:

You must remain detached and unemotional. The circuit or the bike does not care if you get upset.  It responds to logical manipulation which you must provide.

Sometimes to find a fault, you must eliminate the bits that ARE working by verifying that they do.  This leaves only the bit that is faulty.
Be deliberate and indifferent on your approach to the investigation.  The answers will present themselves when enough correct data is accumulated and correlated.  At that point the revelation "Well, of course!" usually occurs.
The circuit diagram will identify the correct paths for power flow or electrical connectivity.  If the circuit can be powered, chase voltage.  If the circuit cannot sustain power, remove the power source and check continuity between identified points AND erroneous continuity to points where it should not, eg. frame ground or engine case.

It is NOT magic, it is physics.  There is always a reason.  You just have to find it, Mr. Detective.

We can help.  But, only if we get a clear problem description, and some data points to consider.  A clear problem statement and a list of known data points, will allow others to logically suggest next probe points or isolation techniques to localize the problem area.

It is only in very rare circumstances that this stuff responds favorably to expletives.

Besides, this is a hobby isn't it?  So relax, and revel in the wonder of it all and the mysteries revealed!

Cheers,

[scondon]

The bike will crank but have no spark if the run switch is in the off position. If the switch is not functioning properly you can turn it to the "on" position but no connection will be made and you will still have the symptoms you describe. Have you taken it apart to insure the plate is making the connection?

   The neutral safety feature only affects the starter motor and since yours is cranking I'd say your OK there. Sounds like you're a lot closer than ya think to getting some spark. Keep at it and keep asking questions

[78 k550]

Ok, this is on the 750 now. I have the starter turning over and have put a test light up to the coils and I have power to the yellow and Blk/Wht. I can jump the run switch Blk to Blk/wht and in the off position no beep, in the run position it beep's. So the switch seem's to be working.

[78 k550]

Hey All,
I overlooked the smallest thing. The blue and yellow wire were not plugged in over by the back brake switch. Imagine that, the points sparked and see where it takes me tomorrow. I could of swore they where plugged in. Ahh time for a bowl of ice cream.

Paul

[oldbiker]

Stick with it Paul! I guarantee that when you finish and ride it, you will look back and see that it was all worth while. Also you will have the pride of knowing that YOU got it right.

[Jonesy]

It's always the simplest stuff that drives you nutz! (Voice of experience... )

[78 k550]

Hey All,
 I got it to start and run this morning. The 750F, It was all pilot error. I overlooked the blue and yellow wires from the point's. I could of swore I plugged those in. Look's like it is on its way up. I need to find new connector's for my electrical, or do I need to find them in a yard. My local parts house say's they cant or dont have a listing for the carb's or year my bike is. I think he might be looking in the wrong place.
 Thank's for all the support I knew I would figure it out just a little time.

Paul