Topic: Clutch Reassembly

[MattFreeman]

I'm putting the clutch back together on my '76cb750 F1 and checked the bikebandit parts list before i did to make sure I got the order right and I found that I'm missing a piece. It looks like a split ring that goes behind the washer shown in the pic.

Here's the link for the parts list/diagram it is part #15 in the clutch list. And is not available as far as bikebandit is concerned.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1976-honda-motorcycle-cb750f/o/m9453#sch399683

I thought I did a good job saving and documenting the parts so I'm not sure if I lost it or it wasn't there when I bought the bike, which ran/rode just fine. So my question is do I need it and if so where can I get one?

[Ernest T]

I'm pretty sure you need that to keep the clutch basket on the counter shaft.

[MattFreeman]

It is the first piece that goes on the shaft then the washer shown in the pic then the clutch assembly. I figure it is a spacer although I can't figure why it's split.

I had an idea last night as to where it could be so I'll tear the garage apart after work.

[KRONUS0100]

i ran into a similar issue.  took a mechanics word the clutch was right.  found out after it failed that the clutches themselves and the shafts they ride on vary year to year, and the F model clutch pack is definitely different from the earlier k models.look closely at shaft to check and see if there is indeed a groove for that split ring.

[KRONUS0100]

Matt.  i just went thru my records and stuff.  IF that is indeed a F model clutch basket....the outer edges of the slots should be wider.  the outer most clutch fiber had wider tangs to orient the fibers correctly, as the grooves in fibers had to go a cetain way for oil flow.  the earlier clutches and some if not most aftermarket kits the fibers wee cut with straight out oil grooves, not diagnally as needed.  I think you have what looks like a K4 basket.

[CycleRanger]

There are some pix of my K4 clutch in this thread: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=97244.0

[MattFreeman]

Matt- The clutch pictured came with a complete transmission from a F1 with lower miles than the one I had in my F1. I will compare it to the one I took out of my bike when I get home.

Thanks for the imput.

[CycleRanger]

Matt- The clutch pictured came with a complete transmission from a F1 with lower miles than the one I had in my F1. I will compare it to the one I took out of my bike when I get home.

Thanks for the imput.

What's the serial number of that engine?

[MattFreeman]

Matt- The clutch pictured came with a complete transmission from a F1 with lower miles than the one I had in my F1. I will compare it to the one I took out of my bike when I get home.

Thanks for the imput.

It's a F1 motor for sure but what I've discovered now is that the clutch that came with my F1 trans is not from a F1.

I installed the entire basket/primary drive sprockets/shaft assembly that came with the trans.

So now my questions have gotten alittle more serious. Can I run the entire basket/primary drive sprockets/shaft assembly from a different (K4?) bike? provided I have all the parts for said clutch? in the F1 case/cover?


What's the serial number of that engine?

[KRONUS0100]

waiting to here on this as well.  posted a new topic question on the differences in the primary shafts that the clutch basket rides on.  I wound up having to replace the entire set up because i trusted the "super mechanic" that installed it.  I have the entire K4 trans in mine now because the damage was irreparable to basket and backside of the hub.

[KRONUS0100]

    i know the differences in the clutches themselves.the F and K, the basket changes, etc.  what are the differences in the shafts?  can you put an F basket on a K shaft, vice versa?


I have: the shafts don't appear to be significantly different but for one thing: check the oil holes where the shaft lubes the inner gear bushings. On the F1 and later bikes, some of these holes were eliminated. You can simply drill a new one in the later shaft if it is missing, but make sure it lines up with the bushing hole when you do. The countershaft also is like this. For this reason, they got different part numbers.

The final drive shaft is a whole 'nuther story, though.





this is the answer i was waitin on. appears i changed the trans unneccessarily....coulda just used the basket assembly.  Hope this helps.

[MattFreeman]

I've found the mysterious split ring, it is holding my original f1 basket on my original f1 shaft.

From what I can find the clutch plates seem to be universal from 69 to 78 k and f. and what I'll call the carrier (the two pieces that hold the clutch plates together) seems to be the same from what I can tell from examining the two that I have. What are the differences you're talking about? Is the washer that I show in my picture different from model to model? Mine is 45 mm in diameter.

So what caused the damage? what damage was caused? does the carrier bottom out/drag on something? why did you need to replace the entire transmission? does the clutch not engage enough and you mash your gears? is it something that you could fix with a spacer or by removing some material?

I'm starting to worry...