Author Topic: 750 cylinder stud removal  (Read 4899 times)

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Offline Darvill Racing

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Re: 750 cylinder stud removal
« Reply #25 on: February 13, 2012, 01:13:37 PM »
Super news Jim...
Best Regards,

Alex
Darvill Racing

Offline clive

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Re: 750 cylinder stud removal
« Reply #26 on: February 25, 2012, 05:05:20 PM »
I've tried to do my homework and search this entire forum for advice on this and the posts seem to be how to remove a stud that has already snapped off?

I have successfully removed 15 of the cylinder studs. All but three came out without too much bother, (but were bloody tight). This was achieved by tightening each stud across its entire length in a 6" bench vice and turning the upper case. Each one gave a real "crack" as the thread "broke free" in the case. Two of the remaining three which would not respond to the above, were removed by heating the case around the base of each offending stud with a blowtorch until the oil residue around the top of the thread started to bubble and weep-out. This was followed by a sharp thump with a hammer on the end of the stud and then repeating the bench vice trick as above.

The last remaining stud will not budge, (despite two/three heat cycles). Each time I am rotating the upper case by approx. 1/8 of a turn (in both directions), but I can tell the stud is twisting and I DO NOT want to snap it off!

Has anyone any magic advice before my persistence ends in tears?
You could try placing a washer over the broken stud even if it has broken flush and weld the stud to the washer and then weld a nut on top of the washer this will then transfur heat down the remaining part of the stud for you to remove, This has been the only way i have removed broken studs without drilling.
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