Author Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right (Read 57623 times)

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #125 on:** February 27, 2015, 12:58:06 pm »

As I said today I got to pull several more things apart.
Got the Foot Pegs off.
Got the Shocks off.
Got the rear wheel off.
Got the Chain off. Even managed not to mangle the Old Master Link. LOL
The Chain (a Diamond 530) was only adjusted out to between the 2nd and 3rd marks on the adjuster.
The chain still seemed to roll easily, but will likely replace it, given its age and not wanting to end up with a busted case.

Will post some Pictures later on today.

Also looked at the Old Brake Shoes and they almost look new. But I don't know if I should replace them or not.
Will post a picture later with a measurement.

Charlie

Stev-o · « **Reply #126 on:** February 27, 2015, 03:17:10 pm »

Hey Charlie.....oil typically does not come out of the shifter cover, but I don't think it is anything to be concerned about.

your post states "the K6 has been started in over 26 years" but I think you meant it hasnt?

I would replace the brake shoes, the linings have been known to lose adhesion and lock up. That would be bad and not worth the risk.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #127 on:** February 27, 2015, 03:29:47 pm »

Stev-o,

Fixed that!!!! Added NOT.

)

If you take a look at the side view picture in the next post, you can see the amount of oil that came out of there.
That is a Folgers coffee container (2lb size).

I was thinking that there could likely be some issue/problem with NOT replacing the shoes and had planned on doing so.
Just kind of threw it out there to see if someone had some information or comment about why to or not to.

Thanks,

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #128 on:** February 27, 2015, 03:31:42 pm »

So I promised a couple of pictures of the torn down rear end.

Here they are.

Charlie

dhall57 · « **Reply #129 on:** February 28, 2015, 03:30:45 am »

Hey Charlie. Keep up the good work. I took the side cover off my K6 a while back to replace the shifter shaft seal and the best I can remember only a small amount of oil came out. Nothing like yours, but again maybe just because bike has been sitting up for all those years with the old oil still in it. Hows the 341's? By the pic of the 2 right pipes looks like only surface rust. My 750 K4 341's looked the same way and they cleaned up and look almost new

Can wait to see another K6 standing tall and back on the road

dhall

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #130 on:** February 28, 2015, 05:16:57 am »

dhall57
Thanks. I'm finally getting to work on her. Been too cold and looking forward to warmer weather.
I was talking to one of the guys last night and he said that the oil amount was probably OK, but said that the Oil Pump Stopper definitely should be replaced, or at least looked at. Since I have been expecting to rebuild the Oil Pump, That was GOOD News!!!!!!

I think the pipes will clean up, but not sure if the Coka-Cola and Steel wool thing is what I should use on them. What method did you use???

Going to try to get a few things done today.

Thanks,

Charlie

dhall57 · « **Reply #131 on:** March 01, 2015, 04:17:44 am »

My pipes especially #1 & 2 had a lot of oil and crud that had collected on them from over the years. I used a degreaser witch desolved the road grime and than these two items:

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #132 on:** March 01, 2015, 04:35:30 am »

dhall57

Thanks. I've got some Never Dull, but haven't heard of Colonel Brassy.
Will give it a try. Just ordered some.

Thanks,

Charlie

dhall57 · « **Reply #133 on:** March 01, 2015, 04:48:23 am »

here is a pic of the backside of #2 the worst of the bunch before and after:

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #134 on:** March 01, 2015, 05:11:45 am »

Marcia, Marcia, Marcia,

Those pipes look GREAT!

And just degreased then Colonel Brassy and Nevr Dull.
Cool. If I can get my pipes looking that good, it would save me a bunch instead of rechroming.

Thanks,

Charlie

dhall57 · « **Reply #135 on:** March 01, 2015, 10:24:55 am »

Quote from: oldhatt45 on March 01, 2015, 05:11:45 am

And just degreased then Colonel Brassy and Nevr Dull.

Yep that and a lot of elbow grease. Spent most of a Saturday working on all 4 pipes. But all worth it to see those original HM341's shining like new.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #136 on:** May 04, 2015, 07:21:59 pm »

Been a while but I finally have some measureable progress to report.

In the last month I've been taking apart and cleaning and polishing the rear wheel parts. So today I finally got everything ready to go.

Significant to this was the lacing of the Rear Wheel with my new Buchanan Stainless Steel Spokes and new DID Rim. The first picture below is one I took before taking the rear wheel apart. It shows the ONE Step that no other document or description shows. This step is guaranteed to make you an instant Lacing wizard and gain you membership in the Secret Society of Wheel Lacers.

If you look at the first picture, It shows the Valve Stem at the bottom. The Spoke to the Right of the Valve goes to the Lower Side Inner Spoke and has a Green Arrow pointing to it. If you now move Up to the Upper Side, the Spoke just to the Left of the Green Hole on the Upper Side as indicated by the 2 purple lines is pointed to by a Blue/White Arrow. On the Upper Side, this is Hole number 1. Now count 5 holes to the Left and you come to the Hole pointed to by the Red Arrow. Follow the Spoke back to the Rim and it ends at the Hole immediately to the Left of the Valve Stem. Makes Lacing a wheel a 20 minute job!

Another interesting thing is the Hub bearings. I ordered the SKF 6304/2RS (Both sides rubber sealed). When I took the Old bearings out, they are NTN 6304Z bearings (Metal Sealed on the Outside only)! After re-reading Hondamans book and reading several build threads it seems that the preference is the rubber sealed bearings. So, tomorrow with any luck at all, the new SKF bearings will go in, since they are spending the night in the Freezer, patiently waiting to be installed. LOL

I also watched a couple of the Hack-A-Week videos done by forum member Dino, for which I am eternally grateful! Lots of good information in his Videos!

Thought I would also post the pictures of the Nice, cleaned and polished rear wheel parts. Not as good as the Front wheel, but I am getting really tired of sanding and polishing. LOL

I have new Cush Drive rubbers ready to go in as well. I also have a New JT Sprockets 48 tooth sprocket ready to go. After speaking with Hondaman and reading a few other threads as well as Hondamans book regarding sprockets, I did something that I hope will prolong the life of the new chain I will be putting in. I took my Dremel tool and put a 220 grit wheel on it. I then VERY lightly hit each tooth to hopefully remove just the casting grit off each tooth. Don't know how it will work out, but we'll find out.

Last thing. I ordered a set of Ikon 7610-1296 shocks to replace my VERY OLD 76F-1296 Koni's. It seems that Ikon does not have (or not willing to admit to having) rebuild parts for these old shocks. I did post a thread about rebuild the old ones. I got the information on a Guy that goes by the handle "rhgussa" on Ebay that rebuilds and sells these old refurbished Koni's. Made contact with him and he said that generally, unless someone has ridden their bike with these old shocks that have been sitting for a long time, the likelihood is that they only need to be taken apart and cleaned and have new oil put in. If you do ride on a set of these old shocks, the old oil will have gummed up and probably will cause the shock rods to bend. If that happens, you probably will need new shocks since parts are not really available. He did say that the seals and other internal parts are probably OK and only need a Good Cleaning. At some point, I will probably try my hand at rebuilding my old Koni's, but not just yet.

So, tomorrow with any luck at all, I will put the rear wheel back together and post my progress.

Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #137 on:** May 08, 2015, 07:33:14 pm »

Quote from: oldhatt45 on May 04, 2015, 07:21:59 pm

............. I also have a New JT Sprockets 48 tooth sprocket ready to go. After speaking with Hondaman and reading a few other threads as well as Hondamans book regarding sprockets, I did something that I hope will prolong the life of the new chain I will be putting in. I took my Dremel tool and put a 220 grit wheel on it. I then VERY lightly hit each tooth to hopefully remove just the casting grit off each tooth. Don't know how it will work out, but we'll find out................

Hey Charlie,

When you have a moment, can you please post up pix of the end result? My sunstar arrived today and I'd like to smooth it out as well, and a reference pic would be great. Thanks!

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #138 on:** May 09, 2015, 09:53:34 am »

Ed,

OK, I took a few pictures of both Front and Rear Sprockets. Also took a little video of sanding a tooth on the front sprocket just as a reference. Don't know if the video will come through, but I tried.

You'll notice that the front sprocket teeth that are not sanded are very gritty. I didn't try to get the tooth sanded immaculately, just wanted the surface grit sanded off.

Pictures here are the rear sprocket.

More in next post.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #139 on:** May 09, 2015, 09:55:04 am »

Here are the Pictures of the Front Sprocket.

First is the "Before" (in this post)

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #140 on:** May 09, 2015, 09:56:17 am »

Now the Front Sprocket After sanding a tooth.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #141 on:** May 09, 2015, 10:22:44 am »

OK, so I couldn't upload the video directly.
But did manage to upload to youtube.
Here's the link.

Please note that I was trying to hold the camera and do the sanding at the same time. LOL
Also, this took way more time than if I wasn't trying to do 2 things at once.

(And we all know how that goes.

)

Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #142 on:** May 09, 2015, 08:43:21 pm »

Thanks a bunch Charlie, the close ups are helpful. I have Sunstars, and they aren't as "grainy" at the teeth. I'll smooth them down just a bit as added insurance. Thanks for posting!

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #143 on:** May 10, 2015, 02:38:52 pm »

Today I got the Rear Rim Trued up. Radial Runout of 0.28mm (=0.0110236 inches) and Axial Runout of 0.68mm (=0.026717 inches)
Then I put the Rear Tire on, a Continental 4.00 X 18 H. Figure these were good 26+ years ago, so I'll see how they do now.

Last thing for today, the Rear wheel is together and ready to install once I get the rest of the little bits cleaned up. I also plan on pulling the swingarm off and giving it a good cleaning and regreasing. I will likely send it out to Hondaman this coming winter for a complete refurb, but hoping to get it running before then. (I know, famous last words. LOL)

The biggest pain in putting the wheel back together with the new Cush Rubbers and bearings was actually getting the sprocket carrier back in. Finally figured out I needed to use a little bit of lubricant, so I used a bit of the Dow Corning High Temp grease. Just enough to make the rubber slippery.

And just to prove the wheel is together again, here are a couple of pictures, cause I know you guys like pictures.

Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #144 on:** May 10, 2015, 03:04:03 pm »

Nice!

I got around to the rear sprocket today, and I gotta say, it was much smoother than what the JT's in your vid look like. There were certainly no sparks flying on mine, but there were a few spots sharp enough to cut my fingers. Again, thanks for posting the pix and the vid.

Stev-o · « **Reply #145 on:** May 10, 2015, 03:11:11 pm »

Hey Charlie - why not just install some new swing arm bushings yourself? I know you could handle it.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #146 on:** May 10, 2015, 04:34:16 pm »

Ed,

Thanks and No problem. Glad I could help. I guess that the next time I replace sprockets, I'll look at the Sunstars.
Keep us updated on sprocket wear. I'm interested in knowing how well they wear.

Stev-o,
I probably could replace the swing arm bushings, but what I'm most interested in is the other modifications to the swing arm given that it's a 76 with the center grease zerk.

Also, given that I have only 24k miles on her, and the fact that I was probably one of the few anal owners that actually did grease the swing arm regularly, I don't really have a worn out set of bushings, so to get another 40 years or so out of a new set of bushings is probably something my grandson will appreciate.

And Yes, I already told my son that the 750 goes to his son when the time comes.

My next project (a 76 Wing) goes to him.

Thanks Guys,

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #147 on:** May 16, 2015, 06:14:04 pm »

For the last few days I've been cleaning up bits and pieces of the rear end and today I got the SwingArm off.
When I took the Swingarm bolt out, it took a little tapping with a hammer on a wooden dowel, but it wasn't what you would call stuck.
In fact, when it came out, it was pretty decent. Once I got the bolt out, I figured the Swingarm should just kind of slide out. When it didn't at first I thought it was seized in place or someone had welded the end cups in place. Then I remembered that Hondaman had a couple of diagrams in his book, so after reading the regular shop manual I re-read Hondaman's book section. I then hit self on forehead.

Hondaman was absolutely right. You need to loosen the 2 rear engine mounting bolts to get the clearance so the Swingarm will come out. Duh.....

First picture is the Grab Handle from the left side before cleaning. Second picture is after cleaning. Not a Rafi job,

but at least reasonable and not embarrassing. Thank You dhall57, the Colonel Brassy worked GREAT!

Third picture is the Swingarm bolt before doing anything to it in the way of cleaning.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #148 on:** May 16, 2015, 06:21:55 pm »

Here are a couple of pictures of the Swingarm Collar, again before any cleaning whatsoever.
The grease was still Grease. And for those wondering, the grease was Marine Trailer bearing grease. LOL
Not bad for 26+ years in the garage. LOL And yes I was probably one of the few that greased the swingarm regularly. LOL

Tomorrow I hope to finish cleaning up the Swingarm and its pieces then give it a quick paint job using the Rustoleum and Rustoleum primer.
Will likely have it powdercoated this coming winter.

Charlie

Stev-o · « **Reply #149 on:** May 17, 2015, 05:52:12 pm »

Why not just have it powder coated now?

News:

Author Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right (Read 57623 times)