Topic: 19yrs old, first build - CB750K5 cafe

[mystic_1]

So, guessing that you have the bike up on the center stand, and you've only unbolted the shock on the one side, you'll get some sideways pressure from that which can cause the bolt to hang up.  Basically the weight of the rear wheel is causing the threading to hang up somewhere, probably against the outer face of the clevis.

Take a long board and stick it under the rear wheel, pull upwards to lift the wheel up a bit, then try to remove the bolt.

Wiggling things around a bit can sometimes help when trying to pull one out.*

mystic_1






* See what I did there?   

[Lammers000]

I actually have the front and rear ends removed aside from the swingarm. Last night I went ahead and removed the swingarm along with the rear shocks still attached. Therefore there should be no source of loading on the bolt. Later tonight I may post a quick video to help demonstrate my problem.

[Lammers000]

How does one remove the engine from the frame? I'm attempting the lift frame off method but it seems damn impossible. I've been wrestling with it for a good 2 hours.

[edwardmorris]

Do you have the following off?

  Exhaust spigots
  Front sprocket cover
  Oil filter & cover
  ALL cables & hoses
  ALL mounting bolts & tabs
  Shift & Brake Pedals
  Kickstarter
  Battery negative cable
  Coils & wires
 
I'm probably forgetting a few, do you have Hondaman's book?

[mystic_1]

First, remove the exhaust collars or studs, whichever you have.    This'll give you some more wiggle room.  Cover the frame rails with tape/foam/cardboard if you're worried about scratches.

Assuming the frame is upright and firmly supported, the engine needs to come up about an inch in the front, and a few inches in the back.  In other words it needs to get lifted and tilted forward at the same time.

The engine will then slide directly to the right and out of the frame.  Note that the rear of the engine will JUST clear the gusseting at the rear right of the engine, and JUST clear the front rail of the frame.  Any twisting or leaning will get you hung up.

I like to straddle the frame, leaning forward over the backbone, and reach down and grab the motor from both sides, by the alternator cover and under the points cover.  when you lift the motor it'll want to lean forward naturally from the weight of the cylinders and head.  Edge the motor out to the right a little at a time.

When lifting the frame off of the motor, the motor still has to take the same "path" as above in order to exit the frame.

mystic_1

[calj737]

Do you have the following off?

  Exhaust spigots
  Front sprocket cover
  Oil filter & cover
  ALL cables & hoses
  ALL mounting bolts & tabs
  Shift & Brake Pedals
  Kickstarter
  Battery negative cable
  Coils & wires
 
I'm probably forgetting a few, do you have Hondaman's book?

And disconnect the chain...

[Lammers000]

Hey guys so I've made a lot of progress with the tear down here and there. I bought the bike knowing there was an oil pressure problem. Upon teardown I found the oil problem. It seems one of the oil galleries on cylinder 4 up in the valve train was clogged.  As a result the on the far right side was shredded to pieces along with the cam tower. I will post pictures next week.

As a result I will be replacing the cam and tower. I know all moving parts in these engines wear into each other. So with camshaft replacement do you guys suggest replacing the other cam tower and rocker arms?

In addition does anyone have any experience with the cycle x camshafts? I'm thinkin bout dropping in a performance cam to make a bit more power.  Thanks

[Wredas]

Looks good! Would be nice with more pictures.

[Lammers000]

As you can see the cam is terribly shredded to pieces. Its supposed to have the radius as seen towards the bottom near the lobe. When I first saw this I nearly #$%* my pants because I know all that metal needed to go somewhere and figured all the metal chips got into the oil and scratched up the inside of the motor. However the oil didnt show any signs of metallic contaminants and the cylinder walls were all good. There was a build of material on the cam tower that corresponds to the missing material on the camshaft. I dont really know why there was a build up (perhaps thats the missing cam material?)

[MCRider]

If you didn't knnow already, that damage is indicative of a clogged oiling system on that side. Has it been apart before?

REason I ask is this usually happens after a rebuild when some debris from the rebuild, especially hardened silicone gasket material, gets lodged in the oiling orifice between the head and cam tower/bearing. IT will need to be cleared.

[Lammers000]

MCRider, thats exactly what I have figured. The last owner had the engine rebuilt. After the fact he was out riding and saw the oil gauge flicker and what not. He brought it to a mechanic who said it looked like gasket sealant clogged up an oil gallery.

[Lammers000]

Hello everyone, I hope you guys are all starting to get glimpses of bearable weather and the spring season. Anyways, I am at the point to remove the jugs. Is there a technique to getting this chunk of metal loosened up? I have been trying to wiggle it ever so slightly but I dont want to pull straight up in fear of damaging the cooling fins. Thanks

[MCRider]

MCRider, thats exactly what I have figured. The last owner had the engine rebuilt. After the fact he was out riding and saw the oil gauge flicker and what not. He brought it to a mechanic who said it looked like gasket sealant clogged up an oil gallery.

Generally, the top end damage will not be foreshadowed by a poor reading on the oil gauge. The gauge is plugged in to a gallery which is upstream from the oil going to the cam. So it can show full pressure, while the cam is starving. The gauge, plugged in to the side usualy, wiill show the pressure in the lower end, crank, rods, and such.

I suppose it could read higher than normal, if that orifice is plugged. Hence the flicker?