Topic: CB750 fork upgrade/rebuild?

[pjed]

Finally got my 74 CB750 running (after cleaning the carbs multiple times) and rode it up and down my block to prove to myself it was possible.  Well, it was possible but not advisable...the forks needs some serious attention.  The seal is bad on one or both, not sure if there is any fluid in them.  They had no damping action whatsoever, were very bouncy and would dive/bottom out under any front braking. 

My question is should I rebuild the stock forks (seals/fluid) or is there an easy swap with another model or year that would make sense? I'm going for the cafe look and want good handling but won't be taking it to the track.

Any advice is much appreciated,

Paul

[MCRider]

Finally got my 74 CB750 running (after cleaning the carbs multiple times) and rode it up and down my block to prove to myself it was possible.  Well, it was possible but not advisable...the forks needs some serious attention.  The seal is bad on one or both, not sure if there is any fluid in them.  They had no damping action whatsoever, were very bouncy and would dive/bottom out under any front braking. 

My question is should I rebuild the stock forks (seals/fluid) or is there an easy swap with another model or year that would make sense? I'm going for the cafe look and want good handling but won't be taking it to the track.

Any advice is much appreciated,

Paul

i vote for a thourough rebuild of the stocker incl, springs seals and a good cleaning, add Gold Valve Emulators   http://www.race-tech.com/HTML_FILES/EMULATORGV.HTML  and a fork brace.

You could do a conversion to a 75-76 GL1000 fork, or GSXR and others I've read. But you've got a lot of acquiring and swapping to do. Still may need springs and emulators. But the tubes are thicker. 37mm vs 35mm.

My suggestions will yield a high performance suspension with stock parts.

[bucky katt]

Finally got my 74 CB750 running (after cleaning the carbs multiple times) and rode it up and down my block to prove to myself it was possible.  Well, it was possible but not advisable...the forks needs some serious attention.  The seal is bad on one or both, not sure if there is any fluid in them.  They had no damping action whatsoever, were very bouncy and would dive/bottom out under any front braking. 

My question is should I rebuild the stock forks (seals/fluid) or is there an easy swap with another model or year that would make sense? I'm going for the cafe look and want good handling but won't be taking it to the track.

Any advice is much appreciated,

Paul

rebuild em. it's easy and cheap too. even if you need new fork tubes, the cycle exchange has em for 149 a pair and seals and dustboots are included.

[goon 1492]

Listen to these guys they are great help, MCRider I have never heard of those emulators, I am getting ready to fire my dual disc thread and I want to put a link for these in there and hopefully talk the wife into letting me get these and some progressive springs. Good luck PJed and keep us posted, there is always a person lurking that has or is going to have a similar problem and ya never know that your helping another at the same time as you are getting helped.
 

[MCRider]

Listen to these guys they are great help, MCRider I have never heard of those emulators, I am getting ready to fire my dual disc thread and I want to put a link for these in there and hopefully talk the wife into letting me get these and some progressive springs. Good luck PJed and keep us posted, there is always a person lurking that has or is going to have a similar problem and ya never know that your helping another at the same time as you are getting helped.
 

We've had some discussion on suspension threads of these, search "emulators". I put them in my hawkGT and they changed my world. 78cafe--- put them in his project, really likes them. They won't go in the early CB750 fork, just K2 and later. They "emulate' a modern cartridge fork which has 2 way oil dampening, our stock forks the oil only works on rebound. The spring handles all compression duties.

If you buy, RaceTech says use their straight wound springs, not a progressive wind as you'll affect the emulators. The emulators provide the progressivity we could only get with mechanical springs before. To me the emulators are a safety issue as they virtually eliminate tankslappers, an issue dear to my heart as i came close to dieing due to one.

All post K2, non-cartridge type forks should have these, if it were up to me it be a law.

Study up on them I think you'll be impressed.

[voxonda]

I use them in my replica with own tuned front and can say they do "work"! Although I use not the Race tech originals. You won't be sorry.

[pjed]

Sounds like a rebuild with Race Tech is the best way to go.  I have their internals in the shock on my track bike and really like it.  Also, I think a lot of people run the emulator kit in their SV's with good results.

Swapping for another model may a be a bit more work than I want to take at this point...I want to get out and ride the thing!

Thanks

[1974blaze]

i just put the emulators in my 750.  no real noticeable difference despite all the reviews i've read.  those of you who seem to be in the know, do i have them set up wrong (more of less dampening) or is this as i read above because i am running progessive springs and this is messing with it?

[johnyvilla]

I would think, if you do not plan on taking this bike to the track, new seals and progressive springs would be enough. They make a huge difference and are easy to install.

[Steve_K]

I have used the emulators in my SV650 and 86 Gixxer and used Race-Tech springs and their suggestions for fork oil and levels.  Just a little adjusting on preload and I was very happy.  Have not tried them in my 550's yet.
I like them!
Steve