Topic: Headlight option? 76 550k

[TwoTired]

 
Are you trying to be funny?   Seems obvious that any headlight would use power only when it is on.  If you increase the wattage, it will use more power when it is on and none when it is off, same as a lower wattage headlight would.  Or, are you talking about the front marker lights as running lights?  If so, that would save you 16 watts.

According to the Honda shop manual I have, the UK and European F2s have a 45/40 headlight in stock form.

The alternator makes max power based on RPM (given a good well charged battery and low loss wiring) with a peak of 150 Watts at 5000 RPM and about 1/3 of that during idle.

The bike typically uses about 120 watts total with the key switch and lighting on.  Tally up the watt ratings for the lights you turn off and you have a watt usage rating for the bike when just the key switch is on.  The brake light, ignition, and alternator still use power whenever the key switch is on.

I'm wondering if we have an English translation problem? 

Cheers,

[Rgconner]

I really like these if you are going to use the H4 socket:

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-9003-EcoVision-Headlight-Bulb/product-reviews/B00480KPDA

20% less draw, which puts it back in the stock range but with the increase output of a 55/65w bulb.

Comes in a two pack... one went in the Vespa.

[LesterPiglet]

My mistake. I was thinking daylight riding lights in the US was headlight.   If the headlight was only used for an hour or so each ride could I get away with more wattage.

I'm good at talking but not writing. 

[vames]

Ryan66, just go to Autozone or what ever and spend $15 on a sealed beam 7" halogen headlight.  It won't have a "motorcycle"  light pattern, but will work well.  I bought the cheapest Sylvania Halogen and it fit perfectly.  I think the low beam is 35 watts.

MJ

+1 -- you're way overthinking this. If you want to replace the bulb cheaply, just bring the old bulb into an auto parts store and ask for the cheapest replacement, which will be somewhere between $10 and $15. If you want to upgrade, go to candlepower.com and order an H4 reflector and the bulb of your choice (the reflector will last forever and you'll only need to change bulbs in the future). Both of those choices are essentially plug and play with the existing wiring setup. If you want to get really bright and fancy and splice wires, go with an HID setup.

[chickenman_26]

Here is absolutely the best deal on a 7" motorcycle halogen headlamp.
http://store.candlepower.com/fco7h4mohebd.html
I've bought two of these already - one for a '77 750A and the other is in my '71 500K. I used the 45/45 watt H4 in the 500. The beam pattern and brightness is outstanding.

As to charging, the charging system of the 500/550 is more capable than some might think, but wiring or component problems in the system can reduce output or increase the rpm where sufficient output is available. I had the opposite problem. I made the mistake of installing 3-ohm dyna coils along with the halogen lamp in the 500, and the voltage at more than 5000 rpm peaked at 13.8. The weird thing was that when I decelerated below 4000 rpm, the voltage climbed rapidly to 14.8. Yes, that's too high. But it showed that the system did have the ability. No amount of regulator adjustment provided satisfactory results. So I installed an electronic regulator from Oregon Motorcycle Parts. Now, the voltage is 14.2 and steady at any rpm above 2500. I tried the adjustment pot on the regulator and was able to get it to charge at 14.8 if I dialed it all the way up. I brought it back down to 14.2. Note that if there's a significant voltage drop between battery + and the black wire at the regulator, the bike can actually over charge.

Stu

[Deltarider]

Here is absolutely the best deal on a 7" motorcycle halogen headlamp.
http://store.candlepower.com/fco7h4mohebd.html

Chickenman, that price is unbeatable.

I really like these if you are going to use the H4 socket:

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-9003-EcoVision-Headlight-Bulb/product-reviews/B00480KPDA

20% less draw, which puts it back in the stock range but with the increase output of a 55/65w bulb.

Philips doesn't cease to amaze me. They're the winner in every test. Recently they tested best again now for beautiful designed ledlights for pedal bikes. Both front and rear! http://www.bike24.com/p214244.html
For most bulbs Philips offers you the choice: either 20% more light or 20% less draw. I'm satisfied with my actual Philips Visionplus, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy their X-treme Power H4 version. Never had charging probs with my 500 that came standard with 55/60W by the way.
Philips is the most innovative. Be it more expensive, they're the best.

[nomad]

Here is absolutely the best deal on a 7" motorcycle halogen headlamp.
http://store.candlepower.com/fco7h4mohebd.html
I've bought two of these already - one for a '77 750A and the other is in my '71 500K. I used the 45/45 watt H4 in the 500. The beam pattern and brightness is outstanding.

Thanks for the lead... I just ordered two of them!

[chickenman_26]

After I saw free shipping on 2, I did the same. Screamin' deal. Besides, you can never tell when another needy old bike will follow me home...

[Duanob]

I really like these if you are going to use the H4 socket:

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-9003-EcoVision-Headlight-Bulb/product-reviews/B00480KPDA

20% less draw, which puts it back in the stock range but with the increase output of a 55/65w bulb.

Comes in a two pack... one went in the Vespa.

OK who's review is that for the 1975 CB550?

[TwoTired]

My mistake. I was thinking daylight riding lights in the US was headlight.   If the headlight was only used for an hour or so each ride could I get away with more wattage.

Some states require the headlight on while riding.  Some bikes have a lighting switch and others don't.  All the F bikes don't if stock.

You know you can't really bargain with physics, it is what it is.

Depending on how you ride, yes you can get away with more wattage.

Think of your battery as a bucket with a hole in it.  Whenever the key is on the hole is exposed and the bucket starts draining.

The alternator pours water back into the bucket, trying to keep it full.  But, at low RPM the water going to the bucket is less than what is coming out the hole.
When the alternator CAN put more water in the bucket than is draining out it can fill the bucket to overflowing.  The regulator keeps the bucket from overflowing during these times by reducing alternator capability.

A higher wattage headlight is like putting a larger hole in the bucket.  At low RPM the bucket will drain faster than before.  And when revved, the bucket fills more slowly, and takes longer to get full.

If you keep the engine revving always, the battery will stay full, provided you haven't totally exceed what the alternator can provide in best case with a huge headlight load.

Certainly when the headlight is off, the charging system can maintain a full battery.  Whether, it can while the headlight is on depends on the riding regime and the extra load introduced.

If I knew what percentage of your headlight on regime was at 5000 RPM, I could estimate.  But, if you ride home at night and spend too little time above 3000 RPM with a big wattage headlight, the battery may not be fully charged at shutdown.

Hope this helps,

[LesterPiglet]

Thanks TT, that explains a lot. I can't imagine being under 3k often so I'll look for something more powerful.

[Rgconner]

I really like these if you are going to use the H4 socket:

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-9003-EcoVision-Headlight-Bulb/product-reviews/B00480KPDA

20% less draw, which puts it back in the stock range but with the increase output of a 55/65w bulb.

Comes in a two pack... one went in the Vespa.

OK who's review is that for the 1975 CB550?

We will see if they remove it again. Some idiot got the original removed because it was "not the recommended application".