Topic: High Idle??

[bollingball]

jstfkndi
 One thing you need to look at don't take everything as gospel some people don't have a clue what they are saying. I can say TT and flybox1 are leading you in the correct direction while other depend on pure (luck) if you know what I mean. Lord knows I make mistakes but when I do I will post back to let people know.
 That guy that set up your slides was another one of them.

Ken

[jstfkndi]

Thanks bolling! The only thing I think I was initially concerned about was taking them off the rail. I am really hoping that is not a necessity because that seems like it can get hairy. I was planning on having this thing ready to roll by at the latest, end of May, so I think I just need to realize that time has come and gone and I need not set a time limit on this. I typically only have weekends to work on it and every time I take something apart, it winds up needing a new piece and I have to wait on an order to come in the mail (assuming I find said piece!). I have heard alot of people praise the Clymers, but I'll be honest....it seems to leave out quite a bit of detail in some of the areas I have had questions and at other times, it has been spot on. Got nothing but time now, so I plan on taking out the main needle and running it through. Mainly just to see what size I am running (if that is possible) because the bike has aftermarket pipes on it. At least I haven't really seen these around that much. They area four into two set that flare out to the side. I'll take pics of the whole bike, but mind you....she' no show queen!

[flybox1]

The syncing of the carbs (adjustment of the height of the slides) is done through the top cover of the carbs.

No again.  These carbs have the slide position adjuster besides the carbs and top caps.  The shop manual usually points these out with clarity.

Just for clarification, you'll need to do your major slide adjustment (bench sync) by adjusting the slide height at the screw under the top cap.
TT is correct about the slide adjuster screw beside the carbs and top caps, used for your vacuum sync when your carbs are back on the bike. 
Glad you got into the brass carb bits.  pretty easy, huh? 
No need to take them off the rack, but just do one carb at a time. parts from #1, go back into #1 etc.
there should be no tab on your adjuster screws under the top caps.  you'll only need to slightly loosen them to make your slide adjustments during your bench sync.
Stock Main jets are #75, and idle jets are #35's.  Be mindful of the tiny Oring around the body of the main jet.  if its smashed, hard and flat, replace it.  your mech who did your carb service, should have replaced it. It would have come in any carb rebuild kit he purchased
#75 Mains might still be good for your pipes if they have baffles, though 78's and 80's are available if the baffles have been pulled.
Seriously, PM me over the weekend if you get stuck...

[TwoTired]

The slide height adjuster/slide synchronizers are parts 13 and 14
There is a lock nut and screw slot stud on that assembly that raises/lowers the slide height.
These assemblies have a strap that interconnects them.


I don't see why you need to separate the carbs from the stay plate, to restore them to proper operation.

Click on the drawing to make larger.

[jstfkndi]

Ok, I gotcha. I was thinking the adjustments for the slide height were underneath the cap where the slide and jet needle sit in. Those particular adjustment screws are on the outside correct? I don't have the carbs with me to look at, but I think I remember those bolts.

[TwoTired]

Ok, I gotcha. I was thinking the adjustments for the slide height were underneath the cap where the slide and jet needle sit in. Those particular adjustment screws are on the outside correct?

Yes.  As I said in reply #23.

[lucky]

The arrow points to a screw that may lower that slide buy I cannot tell from just that one photo. Leave that screw alone for right now. Could just be the idle screw.

No. The circled screw is for setting the choke plate position.  It has nothing to do with idle setting.

The syncing of the carbs (adjustment of the height of the slides) is done through the top cover of the carbs.

No again.  These carbs have the slide position adjuster besides the carbs and top caps.  The shop manual usually points these out with clarity.

Thanks TWO TIRED... I made a mistake and corrected it about that choke adjustment.
But I did not know about the slide adjusters having a additional adjuster. I will be more careful in the future.

My apologies to the original poster.

[Tews19]

Take the carbs slides out, mains, slows... Never spray carb cleaner on the rubber parts. It will ruin them. These guys here have a wealth of knowledge.. Follow it to a T

[lucky]

if it idles nice before you blip the throttle and it hangs, then your slides might be ok.

pull cable installed? use it....does it bring the idle down?
return spring installed and working?  it should snap closed when you release the throttle.

if both of these are ok, then loosen all your carb boot holders and re tighten all of them.
probably on is not seated correctly and sealed causing a vacuum leak.  be precise with all of them.

Another posibility is this.


If you have the pull cable only and the throttle snaps closed the cable can suddenly get too much slack in it, and when you go to apply the throttle again the cable is hung up on the quadrent improperly.

[jstfkndi]

So I adjusted the slides by releasing those two bolts. I think they got better Trying to set all the floats, but I think I need to order an new gasket kit. The one that are on the float bowls and at the top are crap. Is it just better to spend the money on a whole rebuild kit than just the gaskets? Price-wise that is....

[flybox1]

Nice work! 

There are a few 'rebuild kits' out there.
Keyster Carb Kits-
the good - they are readily available, and fairly cheap.
the bad - inconsistent brass parts. some jets are oversized and the slide needles are of a different taper (you'll have to tune your bike for this  )  BUT, what you can do is reuse all your brass parts, if they are clean, and just use the soft parts, (ie...bowl gasket, main jet oring, etc.)  This is what I did.
OEM HONDA KITS-
the good - they're HONDA. they'll work right.
the bad - more $$ and harder to find.
I'll see if i can locate the kit part number for you.

check your main jet o-rings.  you'll want to replace them too if they are flat.
you can find bowl gaskets, and jet o-rings separately, i you dont need all the rest.


EDIT- - give this guy a call about individual parts and o-rings.
http://www.harpritsan.com/Carb_01Home.html

[jstfkndi]

Thanks! Yeah, I was hoping to be able to reuse the jets and everything brass, but all the soft rubber and top gaskets, I would feel better just replacing while I have them out. Some part numbers would help greatly! The whole rebuild kit seems like it would cost quite a bit and while I am not opposed to paying for what is necessary, I would like to avoid buying the UNnecessary

[flybox1]

These!
....hard to beat the rebuild kits, price wise, down the page. 
#48-1903

the float needle and seat, bowl and jet o-rings, and top cap covers would cost more individually 

[jstfkndi]

They were out!   Bikebandit has a gasket kit, but doesn't include the main jet o-ring. I think I can get away with the float bowl gaskets and upper cap gasket but would rather the whole kit and kaboodle. I emailed the original guy you posted but his email (was a link on his page) came back undeliverable. Is the o-ring gasket material made from anything THAT special to stand up to the solventds qualities of gasoline. Especially with the increasing ethanol addition? Maybe I can find some that might work that are the same size but different part number?

[Tews19]

If you can tell me the size, I can look in my gasket set I got for my 550F. I can send it to you via mail if I have it.

[jstfkndi]

Size as far as measurements and thickness? I would think at least the bowl gaskets were the same size, but it is for a 350F. I appreciate it! Just exploring my options but just may have to fork over the dough for a whole rebuild kit.

[flybox1]

http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/cb350f/?filters%5Bcategory%5D=carb&filters%5Bfitting%5D=custom

[jstfkndi]

Yeah, I tried that one Flybox. They were out of stock That was by far the best deal too! I went ahead and ordered the Keyster kit and will just try and reuse my brass. Thanks for all the info guys!

[flybox1]

OK.  sorry about repeating info. my wife says im going senile already   
if you haven't already, you can bang out all the other items on the 3000mi tuneup list while you're waiting 

[jstfkndi]

Did the valve clearance check and need to get a timing light and gap the points (even though I did a feeler gauge, not sure I did it right ) Oil and air filter and new oil also in the plan! Spark plugs look like PO had just replaced them and the gap is correct, so I'm gonna stay with those. Question about the timing chain set though. I am sure it has to be running, but all you do is loosen the tensioner bolt a bit and it automatically adjusts? This whole thing about not taking the bolt out all the way kinda worries me a bit. I've heard people take that bolt out and then splitting the cases is necessary..? The bike looks pretty decent (I will post some pictures). Tank needs derusting, front brake parts are all practically new (including a master cylinder rebuild), but thepivot arm that holds the caliper doesn't self adjust, so I have to take it apart and grease it up or something. And the bike will roll freely in neatral, but if I put it in gear and pull the clutch in, I get no budge. Heard that the plates might be sticking and I feel as though the clutch lever and cable is set right and did the clutch adjustment after I put on the new cable. Plan on opening that up once I get the oil out.

[flybox1]

easy as pie CAM Adjustment.
take a look at this.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb350ffour-usa_model435/partslist/E++05.html#results

you will need to loosen #12 and take out #11,  and with the bike running, apply pressure down onto the adjuster bar(#9) through the #11 adjuster hole with a small screwdriver. you'll be able to feel the ticking of the cam chain in the handle.  once the pressure quiets the chain, screw in #12 to hold the bar (#9) in place, and secure the locking nut #18. replace #11.

[jstfkndi]

Ok, got it. Carb parts have already been shipped. Figured I'd get a head start on what exactly goes into a bench synch. Once I take out the slides, do I have to bootom out them again? And with the Keyster set, is it a GIVEN that the brass is out of spec, or just inconsistent (might work , might not)?

[flybox1]

inconsistent enough for me to choose not to use them. but you certainly could. 
PM sent

[jstfkndi]

Ok, I got my rebuild kit in and I was wondering if it is possible to take the slides out and change the needle valve without pulling them off the rack. I really can't seem to make sense of how the unit comes out. Also, would the needle valve seat on the bottom just come right out once I remove the main jet? for some reason I can't seem to see how that comes out either unless this particular one is just stuck.

[jstfkndi]

Just got it! Duh! And the piece I was talking about doesn't look like it comes out, so That is that also Bottom of slide looks a little chewed though. I will send pics. Maybe it isn't as bad as I think.