Author Topic: bike starts overheating high idle?  (Read 8775 times)

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Offline xsmooth69x

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Re: bike starts overheating high idle?
« Reply #25 on: August 22, 2012, 12:36:07 PM »
ok... lol im getting confused

when we say backing out that means turning the idle screw counter clockwise the loosen it

and clock wise would be bringing it in right?

ya i have a sync set with the 4 gauges

right now the idle screw is all the way backed out (counter clock wise) and brought in (clockwise) maybe a full 3-4 rotations. this is the reason i have no to really lower lower the idle because if i back it out any more (counter clockwise) the idle screw dosnt even touch the rack anymore.

also this highest vacuum thing.... i thought u where supposed to get the lowest possible? in the picture is gauge 1 or gauge 2 higher?

« Last Edit: August 22, 2012, 04:51:16 PM by xsmooth69x »
1975 CB550 (FINISHED?!?!?)
first motorcycle ever!!! ow and i dont know how to ride it either :D

raw rust rice venti quad shot cafe racing latte project aka my build..... http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=88853.0

black and white equation godzilla chalkboard 
1972 cb750 - next in line for some <3

Offline xsmooth69x

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Re: bike starts overheating high idle?
« Reply #26 on: August 22, 2012, 12:44:52 PM »
ok

turn on bike.

put on gauges

move idle screw (clock wise) in maybe the middle position of the screw. this would make the engine run at a high idle.

move the individual slide screws so the engine comes down in idle just so that bike isnt idling high.

now the fine tuning stuff.......................

pick one carb, lets say the one all the way to the left if your sitting on the bike. ill make that the master. now start making that master carb have a very high vacuum ( which after someone tells me which way the needle should move to show high vacuum) (i think that would be picture 1). once i cant get the master vacuum any higher i lock the nut in place.

then i sync the other 3 carbs while moving the idle screw as needed to keep the bike alive and once it matches up with the master carb that is locked in. i lock the rest of the 3 carbs in place and im done?

now i will have more travel and control up or down the idle range

1975 CB550 (FINISHED?!?!?)
first motorcycle ever!!! ow and i dont know how to ride it either :D

raw rust rice venti quad shot cafe racing latte project aka my build..... http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=88853.0

black and white equation godzilla chalkboard 
1972 cb750 - next in line for some <3

Offline xsmooth69x

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Re: bike starts overheating high idle?
« Reply #27 on: August 22, 2012, 12:47:23 PM »
you want a little play in the cable... to test for airleaks  just spray wd 40 or starting fluid between your carbs and engine while its running if theres any change in the idle you have a leak

there is a little play in the lines. also i have the over rev and under rev screws set so moving the grip backwards and forwards fast wont do anything crazy or stall out the bike coming from a quick stop

the carb boots are good if i still have problems i will shoot some wd40 on it. the boots are practically mint so i doubt its that. i was just referring to a vacuum leak because thats what i read and searched before i posted this thread.
1975 CB550 (FINISHED?!?!?)
first motorcycle ever!!! ow and i dont know how to ride it either :D

raw rust rice venti quad shot cafe racing latte project aka my build..... http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=88853.0

black and white equation godzilla chalkboard 
1972 cb750 - next in line for some <3

Offline TwoTired

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Re: bike starts overheating high idle?
« Reply #28 on: August 22, 2012, 01:32:02 PM »
A vacuum gauge reads zero with no vacuum.  (It is actually atmospheric pressure and what you use when breathing.)

More vacuum is LESS pressure , or a higher reading on the vacuum gauge.

Standard barometric pressure is 29.92 inches of mercury.  Automotive vacuum gauges use this to calibrate the needle to point to zero.


To remove the idle knob you back it out.  In this case that would be counter clockwise.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline xsmooth69x

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Re: bike starts overheating high idle?
« Reply #29 on: August 22, 2012, 04:50:38 PM »
weird my picture didnt upload
1975 CB550 (FINISHED?!?!?)
first motorcycle ever!!! ow and i dont know how to ride it either :D

raw rust rice venti quad shot cafe racing latte project aka my build..... http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=88853.0

black and white equation godzilla chalkboard 
1972 cb750 - next in line for some <3

Offline TwoTired

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Re: bike starts overheating high idle?
« Reply #30 on: August 22, 2012, 05:59:40 PM »
Lordy, are you really trying to do this without ANY thinking or understanding of what is happening, and how you are effecting it?

Can you read the dial and see where it is labeled pressure and, on the opposite side, vacuum?

While connected to the intake, have you EVER seen the needle point to the pressure side?

Do you understand a 4 stroke cycle?

When the intake valve is open and the piston falls, do you understand that negative pressure is created, (with respect to outside atmospheric)?
The only thing in the path from air inlet to the piston that impedes pressure equalization is the slide.
Therefore, more open slide settings produce a lower vacuum reading in the intake runner than those of a closed slide.
The goal is to obtain the most closed slide setting, which should be the highest vacuum reading for the "master" carb, so as to indicate it is completely shut off for air entry.  This would be the end travel limit you are seeking, that is never tested or obtained by using drill bits under the slides.   Once that end point is found by inference of vacuum readings, the idle knob can be used dominate or set idle speed, and all other slides can be individually adjusted to match any vacuum level the master carb achieves on a running engine.   When all slides equal the master, which has been proven to reach full bottom travel, then ALL the slide will have achieved the same capability.  Then it won't matter how hot the engine gets, you can set idle speed with the idle knob, as it has full authority slide travel end point, all the way to off or engine stopped.

If this doesn't make sense to you or you can't understand what is happening using this procedure, perhaps you are better off yanking the carbs off the bike and doing a proper bench sync with full slide travel falling under your direct visual gaze.

Good luck!
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Syscrush

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Re: bike starts overheating high idle?
« Reply #31 on: August 24, 2012, 07:02:41 AM »

1. Glad it sounds like you didn't kill your bike.  Even with synthetic oil, you easily could have destroyed that motor with what you did to that poor bike.

2. It probably got faster as it got hotter because of increased fuel atomization and/or carb parts expanding from the heat and letting more air and/or fuel in than it should.  Changes in the oil viscosity would generally not result in a significant change in idle speed.

3. In stop & go traffic, definitely turn the engine off.  Kicking it might be a pain, but it's a lot easier than having to push it home.

4. Even if you're not gonna leave it off for a long time, killing the engine makes it a lot easier to find neutral.  Cut the engine, let out the clutch, and rock the bike back and forth a bit until it clicks into N.  It is critical to let out the clutch to find N when the engine is off.

5. It's also easier to find N while the bike is rolling.  If I'm stuck in bad stop & go, I'll pop it into N almost as soon as I'm moving.

6. Fix your starter!  Also, put a voltmeter on your bike.

7. Don't pull the carbs to do another bench sync.  Do a good vacuum sync (preferably with someone who's done it before there with you).  Take your time, find some vids on YouTube that explain the theory and the practice.  It's not hard, but you have to do it right.  Remember that you don't want to run the bike for too long when doing the sync, but take the time you need to get it right - that might mean running for 10 mins and then shutting down for 30 to let it cool.

8. Resist the temptation to have a beer during the 30 minute cool down periods. ;)
Life is precious: wear your f'n helmet!
There's nothing more expensive than a free bike...
FWIW, I'm not a shill for Race Tech - I've just got a thing for good suspension and the RTCE's are the most cost-effective mod for these old damping rod front ends.