Topic: CB750 K2 restomod to "originalish" condition // Forkbrace added ! ! !

[Viktor.J]

I had some time over today, and thought that i would CAD the clip-ons. Since we have alot of cnc-machines here. The question is if im allowed to use them, without any other purpose then private. But if the chance would come, i dont want to be standing there without drawings.

Here is teh first draft of my 70mm high clip ons...

Edit: allready seen a problem, the "clamp" is to thick and might interfere with the tank.... will fix it

// Viktor

[754]

 If the chrome is not good, then by all means strip them..myself I have ground off all the lines and lettering, I like the smooth look...you may like that... I can always remember its OHC, dont need it lettered on the motor.

 Bultaco used hi-rise clip ons in the 70s..take a look at them..

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Well, if you have access to free CNC'ing, that's awesome.  Your design looks very close to the Tarozzi high-mount clip-ons  http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-Clip-dsh-ons/Categories

[Viktor.J]

If the chrome is not good, then by all means strip them..myself I have ground off all the lines and lettering, I like the smooth look...you may like that... I can always remember its OHC, dont need it lettered on the motor.

 Bultaco used hi-rise clip ons in the 70s..take a look at them..

Thanks for the input 754 !
Thats right, the chrome is falling off/cracking up, thats the main reason why I want to get rid of it. But do you mean that by a chemical "dechroming" the chemical bath will "eat" that much of the material so that the lettering will get damaged ?

Well, if you have access to free CNC'ing, that's awesome.  Your design looks very close to the Tarozzi high-mount clip-ons  http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-Clip-dsh-ons/Categories

Yes, thats the clip-ons i was thinking of when I did the design. I also sent an email to them asking about any retail shops in Italy. Cause in US they are at a good price but in Sweden they are to expensive. Dont think i will get any answer but its worth a try

[Viktor.J]

Since i got the bike I never really knew what kind of handlebars i wanted... I know i wanted low, but how low ?
as earlier mentioned, the normal clip-ons would be to low.
So I´ve thought of "high" clip-ons or Eurobars ( or something lower). But after like 2 hours reading i made up my mind, its the Eurobars. Since i Live in Sweden its the "original" bars.

But most i have to thank "Gordon" on the forum and this picture http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=23406.msg240391#msg240391.... (scroll down a few posts) IT makes me wanna WROOOOOOM !

I like caferacers, but for me, to build a cafe racer that I want, would be toooo expensive. And I belive, that with the euro bars, and some other tweeks, it will feel quite "racy" (not to racy, like "I-like-the-original-look-but-also-like-to-rev-it-up" ) HAHA 

[754]

 As far as I know (could be wrong) chrome can be chemically stripped, but the nickel andcopper stays behind and is buffed off. If it all comes off with the chemical you should be safe.

 The low bars, also look at Superbike bars, maybe r90S bars, and early hondatwins used then too.

[Viktor.J]

As far as I know (could be wrong) chrome can be chemically stripped, but the nickel andcopper stays behind and is buffed off. If it all comes off with the chemical you should be safe.

 The low bars, also look at Superbike bars, maybe r90S bars, and early hondatwins used then too.

I posted the same question in the Swedish classichonda.se forum and got this answer, which is quoted from a MC-magazine. I Used Google translate so dont kill me for the translation.

"If I got it right dechroming is a reverse chrome plating in an acid bath. Chromium and nickel migrates from the part you want to dechrome to an electrode. Unfortunately, you can not "re-use" material. In real chromium baths are chromium dissolved as salts.
Left after dechroming just gets copper layer, that is, if the object has been copper-plated, otherwise it becomes just a dull steel surface. Will also removed the copper occurs in another bath which is said to be highly toxic.
Trying to grind the chrome is döfott (means if you were born to do this then you are born to do this until you die), I've tried. Nickel is considerably harder than steel so the underlying statutory surface gets damaged when you grind through."

So i dont know, either whey they should have the chemicals to remove the copper also.
Think im going to give the company that does chroming a mail/call the get the real info


about the handlebars. I´ve checked the superbike bars, they are the same but with lower pull back. and im afraid the MC would interfere with the tachometer. Any ways I dont have the money right now to test more then ONE bar .
But yes, sometimes when i look at the pictures of the eurobars they look abit to close to the driver..
BUT then here on the forum the meassurements for the 5300-300-610 euro bars pullback would be 3,81". Many superbike bars has like 5 1/2 or at least above 5". Which is more then the original eurobars...


Found this "It sounds like these are aluminum alloy rims and the aluminum is corroding underneath the plating. Stripping the old finish requires multiple steps because there are multiple layers. The chrome is stripped with hydrochloric acid, and the underlying nickel is stripped with nitric acid. There may be copper underneath that, which probably must be stripped with a proprietary ammonia-based stripper."
on this site http://www.finishing.com/267/91.shtml

So, several of baths and a "chrome shop" would be able to do that.... question is, the cost

[Viktor.J]

Im now about to order.

Forkears, and mouting
fork gaitor boots
Euro bars (replica of 5300 300 610)
Modification plate for the speedodrive on the dual disc conversion

I have a feeling that it will "build" up and fix the front look quite good

BTW is there anyone who can tell me how to post pictures like everybody else ? so you see the whole picture easily ?

The way i do now is. "attachments and other options" - "attach" and then i chose the file.

[hockeyteeth]

You can host the photo on a website like photobucket.com and use the image URL inside tags.

Looks like this:

[Stev-o]

+1 - get free account at photobucket.com. Then upload your photos there, copy the direct link, hit Mona Lisa icon in reply, then paste. Real easy.

Let's see those pics!

[Viktor.J]

Thanks for the help.

This is the test post

Here's a picture from yesterday, and as you can see, the new parts will make a big lift !


And a picture from a little bit earlier on the front end, this can serve as a "before" picture

[Stev-o]

Looks good, I always like a red bike. Did you paint it?

[Viktor.J]

Looks good, I always like a red bike. Did you paint it?

Thanks, yes, actually its quite, "RED"-red if you understand what i mean, like racing red so its a nice color.
No i bought her like this, im planing on repaint her later, to some of the original color and striping. But since she looks "OK" like this its not that prioritized

I will probably post some pictures later this weekend since im planing on going home (home from university) to drive her

[Viktor.J]

Does any one have a recommendation on a good ebay seller for seat covers ?
With strip, chrome trim etc. the whole package !

// Viktor 

[Viktor.J]

I have been biking this weekend and need some feedback from you guys !
As earlier mentioned, this is my first "big"-bike and my first CB750, my father have had them when he was you but all he says is "they're suppose to be like that" and im afraid he forgotten some things


1: it feels a little bit "bouncy", like the front wheel is almost always bouncing on the road, newer smooth!. of course it can be the roads, but when im driving with newer bikes it doesn't feel like this.
IS it supost to feel bouncy ? or may something be wrong ?

I changed the fork oil a couple of weeks ago, could it be that its to much or to thick ? any thing else ?

2: I Think i already know the answer to this question, but please listen to my engine and tell me what you think about the sound. The ticking is the valves that needs adjustment and the rattle is the cam chain right ?

MVI 3704

3: Sometimes when im driving (with my dad 80kg) and the back it feel a little bit "unstable", like small movements sideways for a few seconds, is this common ?
I've checked but steering and swing bearing and they are fine.

4: When i'm driving on fifth gear and like "max the throttle" the engine stalls ! is this normal ?
Like if i pull down the throttle max it almost dies a few seconds and then it drives not so smooth, so i need to release the throttle and then it goes fine again, what could this bee ?
Cleaning and sync of the carbs ? different size on the jet ?

5: how long "travle"-way is the "gas" grip suppose to have ?  Mine is beyond 90 degrees (horizontal hand palm) , like withe the same "grip" around the throttle i cant reach the "maximum gas" is this also normal ?

[Viktor.J]

Got some items today.


-Fork ears & gaitor boots and everything for attachment.
-Modification for speedodrive for dual disc conversion.
- "euro" handlebar. The seller said it was a "correct" reproduction. It wasn't. But I'm happy, it's lower and less pullback then the original, and that's what i really wanted

Height 62 mm = 2,44"


Pullback 85,5 mm = 3,36"




I still need feedback on my last post, any input is appreciated 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

What mod did you buy for the speedo drive -- so that it will fit the extra disc?

[Viktor.J]

What mod did you buy for the speedo drive -- so that it will fit the extra disc?

I haven't really fitted it yet. But the ones who have on the Swedish and Norh europe forums says its really easy. I bought it from a Ebay seller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290757431343?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

But you can also buy it from here !
http://www.cbfourclub.de/
select
-börse
-K0-K2 ( ore your model)
- then scroll down

[Mugen_Stumpo]

the tommaselli is a great company for handlebars, but i would have preferred one of their awesome clipons

[bjbuchanan]

Your carbs dont come with accelerator pumps so if you give a quick twist it will stumble. Even later carbs with the pumps arent that sophisticated so you still get a stumble. A quick smooth motion will have them pull

If you are stalling i would recommend you tear the carbs all the way down and clean them good. Wire, brushes carb cleaner and co
pressed air. All that good stuff

[Viktor.J]

the tommaselli is a great company for handlebars, but i would have preferred one of their awesome clipons

Yeah they're Italian I thought about tarrozzi clip-ons beafore, but changed for low-eurobars, think its gonna look sweet

Your carbs dont come with accelerator pumps so if you give a quick twist it will stumble. Even later carbs with the pumps arent that sophisticated so you still get a stumble. A quick smooth motion will have them pull

If you are stalling i would recommend you tear the carbs all the way down and clean them good. Wire, brushes carb cleaner and co
pressed air. All that good stuff

Thanks !
That makes so much sense Im planning on driving smoth and calm, but tried the max-throttle for fun and wanted to make sure nothing was wrong.

Thanks, If i get a garage this winter i will tear down the carbs and clean them up real good !

Thanks for the feedback !

[Viktor.J]

Got my drive license today. WIEE

In Sweden it's Quite "hard" and expensive to take a driver license for motorcycle. I thought i could share this info with you FIY,  in the test there is.

One maneuver part with
1: Safety control, checking bearings, brakes, electrics etc.
2:Low speed handling, max 6 km/h. They are quite strict with "clutch & throttle" control.

3:"high speed" handling, 50 km/h.

4: Brake from 70km/h, here the they focus on right braking technique
5: Brake from 90 km/h

And one 30-40 min traffic part where you drive in city center, country roads, highway and all other tricky situations. This is where most fail, they are very strict with handling, placement on the road, how you look and read the traffic, "brake readiness" in when needed, not breaking any traffic rules. Basically the whole driving have to be really risk conscious. 

After all it cost me 19 000 SEK = 2800 dollar, total of 12 lessons and thats pretty basic for what you pay for a Mc driver license if you already have a license for car.

Soon I'm going home to put on the new parts on the bike.

[Mugen_Stumpo]

it's really similar to our exam here in italy...

we have a 8 made of cones to complete without touching the floor with feet

driving bike here in italy is quite difficult, so it's really important to have difficult exam too

[Stev-o]

Congrats!  Wow - $2800 for a license, that's crazy expensive. Would only be about $100 here.

Roma has to be the hardest to ride a bike.

[Viktor.J]

it's really similar to our exam here in italy...

we have a 8 made of cones to complete without touching the floor with feet

driving bike here in italy is quite difficult, so it's really important to have difficult exam too

yes of course the maneuver parts is without touching the ground
It's funny how quickly it gets hard, i mean a big 8 is easy, but how small can you make it ?? thats a good thing, that we have good tests.

And I bet Italy is one of the most difficult places to drive in. The main problem in sweden though is that the car drivers dont pay any atention to motorcycle drivers, and drive out infront, on, over and f*cking eaven under them

Congrats!  Wow - $2800 for a license, that's crazy expensive. Would only be about $100 here.

Roma has to be the hardest to ride a bike.

Thanks
Yeah thats very expensive, Sweden you know. Its teh gouvernment that realiced that a pearson that dies on a motorcycle have cost, and will cost the society alot of money. So they trying to make it as hard/expensive as possible .....


Not so high speeds, but man India is one crazy place to drive motorcycle at
Funny Indian Traffic
Craaaazy
Crazy intersection