Topic: Yolanda 2.0 new pretty carbs

[1BadCB750]

These are not OEM, but for $12 each new... I have not bought a set yet, so I cannot attest to their quality.

http://www.cb750supply.com/products/5/electrical/45/signal-lamps-lenses-reflectors

[70CB750]

yes it was 70 degrees yesterday and it is going to be 78 degrees today! I have to send off the taped covers to be polished, they look terrible right now. not worthy of a post, but I will take a picture to show before and after. I forgot to take a picture of the assembly...that will be in the next update, maybe today

-15C (5F) here right now and snowing like crazy. March can be a real harsh b1tch of a mistress in Saskatchewan. lol

IW

+15 down here, sounds tempting?

[cheftuskey121]

These are not OEM, but for $12 each new... I have not bought a set yet, so I cannot attest to their quality.

http://www.cb750supply.com/products/5/electrical/45/signal-lamps-lenses-reflectors

and I JUST put an order in with their sister company, vintagecb750.......its ok.

[iron_worker]

I did the same thing with DSS ... found out after I paid almost $100 in shipping that they have a branch in the US and the UK.... arg. I ordered from the UK branch of course.

IW

[cheftuskey121]

alright, its been far too long since I've posted. I didn't really fall off the planet, just busy with work and some music gigs, back on track though! first things first, my parts list!

-hardware to mount chain guard
-front 17 sprocket
-rear 48 sprocket
-530 chain
-rectangular bridge looking rubber mount for rear winkers (cms)
-new turn signals
-jet needles/needle jets
-brass floats,
-3x10mm screws for inside carb slides (mine are close to stripped...unless I already replaced them....have to check haha)
-float seat sets,
-slow jets,
-parts for the oil filter area,
-brake switch,
-alternator wire harness (cms)
-points cover,
-chrome clutch cover (if possible),
-new rubber fork boots and clips,
-the correct k4 ear reflectors,
-a seat,
-wiring harness,
-new ignition
-sealed battery,
-pamco ultimate
-iridium spark plugs
-tongued washers and nuts for front and rear wheels
-tailight lens/bracket/gasket
-throttle cables
-headlight/brackets
-clutch lever/rubber tips for both levers
-clutch cable
-tank trim
-oil hoses if reasonable (mine are ratty and one is red)
-tool kit
-new gas cap lock
-possible front peg brackets and hardware
-341 pipe baffles/screws
-oil pressure gauge/mounting
-swingarm collar
-engine cover polishing


eventually new:
-stock exhaust
-rear suspension
-front fork springs
-engine guard bars

So I bought some engine guard bars from here, as well as some new (to me) oil hoses. I also bought more hardware because I keep seeing little things I missed. oh well. I have finally balanced my wheels, and gotten them all together and ready to be put on the bike. I just need to put my new swingarm collar in tomorrow and hopefully get the wheels on!

I am about to order the wiring harness too, no rush on that as I am waiting for my cycle x chrome engine covers to come in. I decided on that because it was going to be fairly quick and I didnt want to polish them. I also bought chrome tappet covers to accent the top end and give a little sparkle to catch the eye....pictures when that all gets here monday or tuesday. now for the updates and pictures

[cheftuskey121]

alright, so I purchased a chain guard from Tews. the K1 chain guard is plastic, and a special length with special bracket spacing. yay.... it was either pay ~$300 for a repro or find a used one. Tews to the rescue. two of the three mounting holes were cracked but I ain't skeert. I used a method I found on here: baking soda and super glue. I believe it works similar to wood shavings and wood glue. I used the baking soda to pack in the crack from different angles (taping off the other angles to keep the soda in, then drop filled it with black super glue that I have in my guitar workshop.dried fairly quickly and was able to sand it and make it nearly disappear. I also deep cleaned and degreased the whole chain guard as it was very dirty. after cleaning I sanded and then prepped it for paint. black, then 2k clear. it turned out great!













just about invisible



applied a paint adhesion promoter meant for plastics



getting black paint



and then clearcoat

[cheftuskey121]

started disassembly of the engine covers for shipping off

taking notes on the stator cover







onto the clutch cover....found out I didnt have a spring there....ordered it. my clutch does not seem to disengage (or engage...dont know which is technically correct). when it is in gear I cant get it to spin freely when the clutch was pulled in. I did a lot of reading and it seems the plates may be fused together. Ive read some people having luck rocking it back and forth to break it free. more than likely I'll be replacing all of the plates...and buying a spare outer cover/plate that people seem to crack often. I will take care doing it but I' like to have a backup just in case





got the new gas cap on. I need to buy one of those newer style pins with the c-clip o the end. this one doesnt really hold very well by itself and if I wanted to I could push the pin out (at least halfway) with my thumb. not safe



I got a new locking latch too. tank is almost done now. the emblems look great, I just need to buy the chrome piping.



I finally got my sprockets and chain from z1. 17t front and 48t rear. I was debating about 18t front but I kinda wanted to go with the factory gearing. maybe I'll change down the road, time will tell.



new oil filter bolt and o-ring, because why not?



front sprocket installed



finally got my forks, ears, and new boots on! still was a bit of a struggle getting them up with the new fork ear rubbers both on bottom and top of the ears. I found that a little wd-40 worked wonders to soften it up enough. seems to be fine.





new carb drain screws. they really make the rack pop





can't believe this sealed headlight new from honda was only $7!



kept the old rings but new mounting hardware for safe measure





finally bought my baffles and mounted them up. they were a little stubborn going in but nothing a little light hammer coaxing cant fix



reflectors (albeit the larger size that I don't care for)



new clutch lever, followed that with rubber ends on both levers



finally finished the rear wheel! its all rebuilt, trued, balanced, and torqued. first I put the bolts and and nuts on and it took me about 20 minutes to get the hub seated in the wheel...and I realized the bolts are essentially floating in the hub, so I wasn't going to be able to put the sprocket and splash guard on.....so I had to spend another 10 minutes prying it off....I ought all new dampers and they are very tough. used a light amount of wd-40 and heat to get the hub in. it went a little better the second time. I took a tip from IW and stood on the hub. I kinda rocked my body weight around to seat it. didnt really know how else to do it. the splash guard has a little bit of damage but I am not worried about it nor am I planning to correct it as of now

[cheftuskey121]

I bought some old (it HAS to be from the 70s or 80s) mcKay brake assembly lube per twotireds many brake posts. I used this just to put the piston seal in and then put it right on the piston seal after it was seated. nowhere else though. I think I used about 5 drops from this tube......10 lifetime supply.



then I used my DOW corning grease to put on the back of the honda brake pads I got, and any "exposed metal areas above the seal. from what I've read this is the correct application. I didnt take any pictures because I was too worried about getting the lube or grease on my phone. sorry.

next I dove into my carbs again...hopefully for the last time. I wanted to replace everything in there, so I did. new brass floats from honda. I like the correctness of it. my old floats actually did not leak, but I figured new would be a little better and less likely to leak. I also replaced the main jets, slow jets, jet needles, needle jets, 3x10 screws in the slides, and float needles and pins. overkill. I don't care.

here is where I started



floats








replacing these little screws




float valves



a lot of new brass in there!



popping out the needle jets with a filed dowel I made



it looks more aggressive than it is, I was just posing for a picture. LIGHTLY tap it out



then lightly tap the new needle jet into the body of the carb. easy



all done

[cheftuskey121]

so that's it for now. waiting on my engine covers to get here. I am also waiting on new o-ring for the oil pump and a new strainer screen too. I also have a small o-ring for the inside of the shifter fork hub. I linked an article about loose shifting and how to help alleviate it. drilling the clutch basket, replacing the o-rings in the oil pump, and the little oil behind the shifter fork hub (to help neutral find its way easily). so I need to prime my oil pump when I replace the o-rings too.

hopefully tomorrow I can replace my swingarm collar and then get the wheels on! next step after that is getting the engine in and then electrical. thanks for reading!

[brandEn]

I have been pricing Honda carb parts for my carb rebuild. $$$!
I want to use Honda needles and needle jets and those are $100 for all 4. Man that stuff is spendy.

[cheftuskey121]

I have been pricing Honda carb parts for my carb rebuild. $$$!
I want to use Honda needles and needle jets and those are $100 for all 4. Man that stuff is spendy.

oh yes it is expensive. I didn't plan on redoing the carbs, but I got a wild hair up my @$$ and decided to go for it.....thats how this whole build is going for me. its a great learning experience for me, instead of just getting it good enough to run. I am a very hands on person and I love extraneous knowledge so going through everything I can comfortably is the way to go. I already know I am and going to have to tear apart the engine at some point. whether its in a month when it doesnt really run all that well or in a year or two and I jack it up. its coming, its inevitable

[Garystratos201]

Very nice work !!! Your rockin and rollin along. You`ll be riding befor you know it............Gary

[Stev-o]

Great update.  I'll look to see if I have an extra cable holder that you need.

[Tews19]

Sick work Chef! Absolutely sick!

Glad the chain guard worked

[cheftuskey121]

Thanks guys. Thanks Stev-o I hope you can find something! More updates tonight!

[Stev-o]

Thanks guys. Thanks Stev-o I hope you can find something! More updates tonight!

May not be able to hit my storage til Monday.

[1BadCB750]

Looking good man!

[edhaeuser]

I always enjoy your updates!  I know what you mean about getting in deeper than "just good enough to run". I keep finding things along the way that are "good enough" but not good enough for me too.  Great work as always!

Ed

[Viktor.J]

That's what I call a Update ! Great work, are you sending the covers of for polishing or are you going to do it ?
And are your fork ears K2 ?

[cheftuskey121]

Thanks guys! Ed, its almost a sickness. It's to the point now where I HAVE to address the pipes. I am either buying new rust free ones or getting some black or silver wrap for the headers. Everything else is going to look new and its going to drive me nuts.

Viktor, I did the chrome exchange with cycle
X. Sent off my old covers and paid a fee and I'm getting back chromed covers. They are supposed to arrive tomorrow!

I am at work so I can't do a proper update (did a huge brunch for 500 people today and I'm beat!) but I successfully got the front and rear wheels on. I replaced the swig arm collar with a new one which took 5 minutes. Greased it up.   Everything fit together as it should I just have to align the top tree because before I had the bars on I couldn't tell it wasn't straight. With the wheel on its clearly crooked.

[Stev-o]

NO! dont wrap the pipes!! Plz. Would look even worse then bad pipes. If it bugs you that much, just plan on buying a set when possible.

So, you really are a chef?  I worked with Paul Qui, have you heard of him?

[cheftuskey121]

I am opposed to wrap too but I want to hide the rust. I'll find a set of pipes Paul Qui is from a season of top chef right? I enjoy that show.  And yes I work at the Westin in savannah, GA. I'm not the exec chef, just the garde manger sous.

[Stev-o]

Paul Qui is from a season of top chef right? I enjoy that show. 

Yes, he won a couple seasons ago. He worked at one of the restaurants I manage (uchiko) but left and opened his own.

Have you tried a brass wire wheel on the rusty pipes? Obviously it won't restore the chrome but will remove the rust color.

[cheftuskey121]

Ah thats awesome man! I used the wire wheel that came with my dremel and the pipes just laughed at it. Didn't do a thing

[Stev-o]

I used the wire wheel that came with my dremel and the pipes just laughed at it. Didn't do a thing

The dremel is a toy, use a real drill