Topic: Orphan

[bill440cars]

         Hey, ya got my attention. Even if I might not be going to do whatever it is, I enjoy seeing the different routes that folks go to, to come up with something different.

                                Later on, Bill  

[Jinxracing]

Looks really cool Jimmy, keep posting pics as the project progresses! I'm really interested in seeing/reading about how that spoked Akront front wheel works out.

[eurban]

Why can't you fit the 550 stem into the R6 lower tree??

[KB02]

Jimmy, what are you doing for a Speedometer? Are you srapping it all tgether, or do you have plans for a different sending unit?

[StrongPerf]

Thanks from all of us!

No sweat.

Check into the speedo drive from a Kawi ZRX. It has a big front axle with a cable driven speedo. Mabye bigger than the R6 but that's fine because you could sleeve it if needed...

[rlarkin70]

wow. that swingarm looks MEAN. nice find! when did they make those things?

[dagersh]

Stay tuned, this is going to take a while.

BTW - Nice gallery! How many of those beauties are your?

Cheers
Jimmy

FJ,

They all are....  I have a sickness   I will definitely stay tuned!

Gersh

[StrongPerf]

I’m trying to finish all the hard parts before getting into the engine, electrical, fiberglass and finally paint.

What are your plans for the motor, fiberglass, paint?

Nice work FJ. I've got a similar setup in my garage. Lathe and drill press with x-slide vise!

Where do you live?

Later

[GoatBaSS]

Looks GREAT! Good presentation.
Are the necks on the 550 frames the same as the 750's? Just thought I would ask.

[fergie]

I like cafe's as much as the next guy but it is my belief that an original bike like this should be left stock. just cleaned up or restored.just mho though.

[StrongPerf]

FJ

I've seen the 605 big bore kit but heard it was for the 500 only. I haven't looked at the bore x stroke combination of the 500 vs. the 550 but guessed it would work. I was contemplating this route or jut doing something like paulages hybird. I'm leaning more toward the cheap route though (605). I have to keep reminding myself that I already have a 135-140 hp bike... I guess after I have all the chassis, suspension and body work done I'll figure out just how much power will have to be good enough.

I'd like to see your 9-way posit adjustable brakets and rear sets. I'm sure the pics are coming. I'll toss in a couple of pics of some I made for my Z1000. I've made a much better set since but I don't have pics yet. I'll take some later. I'll also post the ZRX1200 rearsets on my CB. I haven't started a thread for it but will soon.

I'm in Southern California. I hoped you were close to her but...

I've got 20 years experience painting. If you need some help or tips let me know.

Later

[StrongPerf]

Strongperf

I need to buy a welder!

I've got one you can come over and use then we can go ride!!!!

[StrongPerf]

FJ - The ZRX uses a 25mm front axle. Perhaps you could press in a bushing and final hone it to fit the 22mm R6 axle.

[DarkRider]

Just a thought have you looked at rear sets for the early EX500 kawasaki? They used a drum rear brake like our CBs..that was the reason i was looking at using the rear wheel from one on mine before you reminded me of how you went about the front end work.

[tsflstb]

Wow.

Show me more of that brake side setup please.  I couldn't quite follow your explanation in the other thread.  Looks like you have a mini version of the stock shaft built into that rearset.

[CrisPDuk]

The splined shifter arm and rod are from a 2006 CBR1000R and fit perfectly.

Specials tool required are: Lathe, Drill Press, Band Saw, Hand Files and countless hours of time.

I’m sure glad that’s finally done so I can get on with the fun stuff. Café seat, tank knee pockets etc. etc.

FJ, I'm about to embark on my own 550 project, and this thread is already a fantastic source of both information and inspiration

I took the easy (?!) route and bought some s/h rearsets from an 03 Hayabusa for my bike (I'm planning a disc brake rear) and was wondering where I'd get a gearshift arm with the right splines, you've answered the question for me, thank you

[StrongPerf]

FJ you have talent. Those rear sets look old school, simple and functional. Great looking work!


Can you use the kickstart or does it hit the footpeg? Maybe you plan on loosing the kickstart.

Nice score on the 1000rr linkage. I have to make my own which leaves me looking for a reverse thread 6mm tap. Any ideas where I can get one?

Did you add that kickstand? Mine attaches to the frame forward of the engine...

[.RJ]

I have to make my own which leaves me looking for a reverse thread 6mm tap. Any ideas where I can get one?

Mcmaster has reverse thread taps, but they are pretty expensive - you may want to see if there's a machine shop nearby that has one and can cut the threads for you, will probably save you some cash.

[StrongPerf]

Right on FJ. I didn't know there was a seperate F-model kick start. My footpeg folds up so not a problem but my brake lever is a problem. I think that F-model would take care of it. Doesn't really mater because I plan on swappin in a 672cc 650 based motor with no kickstart... Good to know in case I change my mind though.

Keep up the great work and pics!

[tsflstb]

Very slick.  I'll refer to this picture a lot as I try to get my setup working.  Thanks.

[TwoTired]

replace the old and unreliable glass fuses for blade fuses of the current decade.

Certainly, you should follow your bliss and change whatever you please.
But, what gave you the idea that glass fuses were unreliable?  I have bikes with original glass fuses that have been in service since before blade fuses were even in service.   Old, OK.  Unreliable?  By what metric?

Blade fuses are made with plastic that is known to break down over time.  I have seen this occur when they are exposed to simple sunlight.  Care to estimate how long glass takes to deteriorate?

Stunned.

[CrisPDuk]

I'm just in the middle of building a complete new loom for my 550K project and like FJ I too am getting rid of the glass fuses in favour of plastic ones.

For myself TT, I don't think the original '70s glass fuses were particulary unreliable, but the modern equivalents most definitely are   I lost count of the number of stoppages I had last year due to fuse failures   The caps and the glass are fine, but the wire inside (or more specifically it's terminations) are definitely more susceptible to vibration failure than the older items

[TwoTired]

Certainly true, they are harder to find these days than the blade fuses, if you can't find a Honda shop or mail order.

I carry spares with me on the bike for emergencies.  I've only actually had to use one of them once, though.  Oxidized fuse clips caused heating and melting of the fuse metal near the end caps.   But, that does not make glass fuses unreliable.  Clean/polish the fuse clips once every 20 years and they work fine,too.

Of course, I can't speak toward your particular failures with fuses.  But, I find it hard to believe modern manufacture is to blame.  The vibration just isn't that bad on an SOHC4.  And, the fuse wire mass is so small.. Metal fatigue? Seams so unlikely.

I truly hope you are happy with your mods, for whatever reason, even if whimsy.  I just can't believe blame is necessarily placed on glass fuse reliability.  Sorry.

Cheers,

[CrisPDuk]

The vibration just isn't that bad on an SOHC4.  And, the fuse wire mass is so small.. Metal fatigue? Seams so unlikely.

You should try riding on UK roads TT   Trust me when I say the vibration isn't generated by the bike

[dave400]

The vibration just isn't that bad on an SOHC4.  And, the fuse wire mass is so small.. Metal fatigue? Seams so unlikely.

You should try riding on UK roads TT   Trust me when I say the vibration isn't generated by the bike

I use glass fuses with no problems and I’m riding my bike in the UK.