Author Topic: Refridgerator problems, any experts to help? (Read 2099 times)

Duke McDukiedook · « **on:** September 10, 2013, 03:28:09 PM »

Like the title says it looks like my Maytag model MTF1972HRB is not staying cool at all. No ice buildup on the
Both condenser and freezer fans work OK, and I changed the defrost timer out like I did last time but that did not do the trick.
The compressor is warm/hot and makes a click and some noise when I keep the door open for a while and I cleaned the condensor coils up a bit.

This was a scratch/dent top freezer/bottom fridge that cost me all of three hundred and some change. Would it be worth it to change out the temperature control and maybe the run capacitor to rule those things out before assuming the compressor is shot? Those two parts will cost about $100 and the compressor may be done without a way to really check to see if it is the compressor.

Any advice on whether I should buy the parts or just go for a new fridge?

jtb · « **Reply #1 on:** September 10, 2013, 06:21:05 PM »

Only 300 invested... Sell one of your VFRs and get a new one

(Well, maybe just get a new one, I really miss my VFR)

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #2 on:** September 10, 2013, 10:52:43 PM »

The wife has been busting my chops to sell one of them because three is too many (I kind of agree).

Well, I tested the run capacitor and it spec'ed Ok on the cap checker right at 15uF.
I think the compressor is roached, wife said she heard a bang yesterday and thought something fell like the leg support for the counter I still haven't cut and attach to the counter extension. Maybe that was the compressor giving it's death rattle.

Buuut it could be the relay and overload kit and the only way to really know is to swap out with a known good part and that's about $50.

demon78 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 11, 2013, 04:01:54 AM »

Who made the compressor? Another thing if the pins on the compressor are arranged in a triangle there should be a difference in resistance between pins and there should be high resistance between the pins and ground ( copper line running to compressor )
Usually the pins are marked on the compressor C (common) S (start) R (run) and you need a multimeter with an ohms scale that that will measure 10 ohms and more.
Any how check who made it and go from there.
Bill the demon.

shark · « **Reply #4 on:** September 11, 2013, 05:08:44 AM »

Take the relay cover off of the compressor and see if the relay looks/smells burnt up. Pull it off carefully and shake it. If you hear something rattling, it's junk. I believe the relay is a electronic part, not a mechanical relay which you would hear something when you shook it (haven't repaired residental fridges in years, I'm familiar with the 20+year old stuff). If you find either of these two things, try a new relay.

You could have both a bad relay and a bad compressor though.

Most likely, compressor is toast.

demon78 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 11, 2013, 06:59:36 AM »

Likewise Shark I don't even know who makes compressor any more. Danfos, Techumseh, I know I started using Hitachi before I left the trade..

Bill the demon.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #6 on:** September 11, 2013, 07:28:45 AM »

The compressor is a Tecumseh made in Brazil. When I took the SP4 relay off it rattled, which made me openly wonder if it was still good.
So I should be measuring the resistance of the pins that connect to the compressor with respect to chasis ground or the copper line?

I am stuck wondering if I should buy a relay but I am afraid it and the compressor might be toast also, that definitely crossed my mind.

http://www.repairclinic.com/Maytag-Refrigerator-Model-MTB1972HRB-ID-630945-Compressor-Sealed-System-Parts

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #7 on:** September 11, 2013, 08:46:26 AM »

Looks like my pop's goto guru recoomended trying a generic 3 in 1 hard start device that should run around $20.
$20 is worth a try to me when I know the relay is roached.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #8 on:** September 11, 2013, 09:17:14 AM »

http://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-Start-Kit/dp/B008YDSH6E/ref=pd_sim_hi_2

Booya.
I found one locally I'll have to go to during lunch and see if this solves my paltry dilemma.

shark · « **Reply #9 on:** September 11, 2013, 01:33:55 PM »

RCO-410 is a relay and a start capactor. You have a relay with a run capactor.

If I'm not too late, wire it like this:

Run capactor shown is different than what you have. But you get the idea, right?

Now, some people call the RCO-410 hard starts, some call them dynamite sticks.

I've read of people who have installed these on their fridges and it worked fine.

I would not use them on a fridge myself.

If it works, sweet.

I don't have internet at home so I won't be able to check in till tomorrow.

Hope this helps.

Stev-o · « **Reply #10 on:** September 11, 2013, 08:32:34 PM »

I would have had a new frig by now, hope you have alternative means to keep beverages old.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/app/4055173491.html

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #11 on:** September 12, 2013, 05:30:50 AM »

The 3 in 1 start that I bought worked and confirmed that the compressor is working but doing a little more reading I realized I needed to buy a 3 in 1 that will work with a run capacitor like Shark said. I need UCRC0410 instead.

It looks like all they do for the UCRC0410 though is parallel the run capacitor with the start capacitor like you have in that picture shark. Is that right? Should I just splice and parallel the run with the start?

The only problem I see with that is that paralleling caps is additive to the capacitance and I don't want to completely overload the compressor, I have no idea what the capacitance of the start cap is unless I check it on my Sprague.

shark · « **Reply #12 on:** September 12, 2013, 01:21:47 PM »

Quote from: DukieFrankenkit on September 12, 2013, 05:30:50 AM

The 3 in 1 start that I bought worked and confirmed that the compressor is working but doing a little more reading I realized I needed to buy a 3 in 1 that will work with a run capacitor like Shark said. I need UCRC0410 instead.

It looks like all they do for the UCRC0410 though is parallel the run capacitor with the start capacitor like you have in that picture shark. Is that right? Should I just splice and parallel the run with the start?

The only problem I see with that is that paralleling caps is additive to the capacitance and I don't want to completely overload the compressor, I have no idea what the capacitance of the start cap is unless I check it on my Sprague.

Wire it just like the picture. The relay takes the start cap out of the circut. Start cap is only in the circut for a split second until the compressor comes up to speed.

Sorry for the late response.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #13 on:** September 12, 2013, 02:33:18 PM »

No problem, the tech guy at Supco said to wire the run cap parallel to the start and run wires like you show.
The UCRCs come with the pigtail to the run cap already attached.

shark · « **Reply #14 on:** September 13, 2013, 05:19:21 AM »

Fridge back online?

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #15 on:** September 13, 2013, 10:06:31 AM »

Sorry about that, yep. Freezer is cold and fridge is about where it needs to be, just need to fine tune the controls a bit more.
Yeah, I pigtailed the run cap in parallel last night but I still need to get the icemaker supply line hooked up.

I keep pinching the copper water supply line and have to recut the copper line and reattach a compression nut each time. There has to be a better way to attach water to this.

Don R · « **Reply #16 on:** September 15, 2013, 07:58:25 PM »

I always leave a couple coils of tube behind the fridge. Or nowdays poly tube.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #17 on:** September 16, 2013, 11:01:13 AM »

I replaced the copper tubing with some polyethelyne tubing, kept having troible with the compression nuts at the fridge hookup- the hose kept squirting out with the kit nuts. Bought a few with the nuts and ferrules separate and voila! Ice!

70CB750 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 16, 2013, 11:37:46 AM »

The curse of people who can fix anything is the never ending honeydo list

Good job, congrats!

Stev-o · « **Reply #19 on:** September 16, 2013, 06:42:52 PM »

That deserves a Whisky on the Rocks!

jerry h · « **Reply #20 on:** September 16, 2013, 08:44:58 PM »

Very cool! Thanks for the link - bookmarked and saved for future reference. Last time my fridge died, I just went out and bought a new one. Next time I'm not going to give up with out a fight. Glad you were successful. Inspirational

.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #21 on:** September 17, 2013, 09:54:16 AM »

Yeah man, for $20 locally (Amazon sells them for around $14) and a $13 defroster timer I figure I saved some serious money by not having a tech come out and tell me what I discovered on my own with a little sleuthing.
And I really saved money by not plunking down $500-$800 on a new icebox at the scratch and dent store.
Wifey was really pleased about that, now if I can only convince here that all the time I am taking to get the downstairs bathroom going is worth paying someone else to do it.

News:

Author Topic: Refridgerator problems, any experts to help? (Read 2099 times)