Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 283527 times)

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1625 on:** February 17, 2017, 08:48:58 PM »

Hey Cal, are you talking to River since he threw you under the bus seeking engineering help from Revival and giving your sweat and labor away to them for the Austin "Handbuilt Show"...is that the correct name?

Was thinking about the cap...
How about a chunk of Lexan or other clear or high strength plastic that isn't highly dense to reduce the effectiveness of the signal. Alternatively you build a lense out of think Lexan (1/16 so it is durable and mildly tamper-resistant.) The aperture being full width of the tube's ID or nearly. The cap to secure the lense would be an interference fit to the shoulder outside the lexan lense. That would be sealed with a thin coat of Hondabond or (gasp) silicone. Lexan can be machined pretty well but it has to be done slowly and you can't expect to have a clear cap after machining threads, etc. Not sure if lexan can remove the frosting with a gentle application of flame without any burning like some clear plastics. You can paint it so it is not readily apparent that it is plastic. But, aluminum cap would work fine as well. Was thinking you had external threads on the tube part that holds the M-lock.

Do you know what Secret Squirrel means River? If not, no need to look it up. Your squirrel wasn't a Secret Squirrel.

Just a wild thought...

David

calj737 · « **Reply #1626 on:** February 18, 2017, 03:49:19 AM »

Quote from: RAF122S on February 17, 2017, 08:48:58 PM

Was thinking about the cap...
How about a chunk of Lexan or other clear or high strength plastic that isn't highly dense to reduce the effectiveness of the signal. Alternatively you build a lense out of think Lexan (1/16 so it is durable and mildly tamper-resistant.) The aperture being full width of the tube's ID or nearly. The cap to secure the lense would be an interference fit to the shoulder outside the lexan lense. That would be sealed with a thin coat of Hondabond or (gasp) silicone. Lexan can be machined pretty well but it has to be done slowly and you can't expect to have a clear cap after machining threads, etc. Not sure if lexan can remove the frosting with a gentle application of flame without any burning like some clear plastics. You can paint it so it is not readily apparent that it is plastic. But, aluminum cap would work fine as well. Was thinking you had external threads on the tube part that holds the M-lock.

Everybody's an engineer and a machinist, but nobody reads whats been posted repeatedly.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1627 on:** February 18, 2017, 04:02:13 AM »

Yes, I read what you previously said but had not heard what MG in Germany came back with...did I miss it? Yes I am an engineer (electrical/electronics degree but my work has not been in that field since 1985 when I moved into software for telecommunications systems) and I have been taught how to run a manual lathe, mill, etc. Enough to know and respect your skills and other machinists skills, knowing I cannot light a candle to your skills or other machinists and I leave that expertise to them.
Machining more room you think will solve the issue of something about the pressure from the cap needing a little more room. Alternative placement below the electronics tray or in a window in the electronics tray will work and be out of sight is another solution. I was just considering a way to salvage the work in the tube mount unless Chris is going to have it be his stash tube in plain sight.

David

calj737 · « **Reply #1628 on:** February 18, 2017, 04:10:25 AM »

Quote from: RAF122S on February 18, 2017, 04:02:13 AM

Yes, I read what you previously said...
Machining more room you think will solve the issue of something about the pressure from the cap needing a little more room.

Apparently you did not read what was posted, as pressure on the cap has NOTHING to do with it. There is NO pressure on the cap. The cap being in front and around the sensor is THE problem. Period. End of story.

As for altering the cap as it is, is nearly impossible. It is machined to tolerance and internally threaded. Attempting to change, extend, or re-size the cap would require re-timing the threads on my lathe. If you examined the cap, you would see that is nearly impossible, and would also require the base mount to be altered. So it causes the entire part to be re-made.

Even making the cap from a non-metallic material would involve hours of machine time. I spent about 4 hours making the cap alone. Sizing, drilling, knurling, chamfering, threading, fitting, etc. This was to be a gift to a pal, a surprise and a Xmas present. It didn't work out. Bummer. Its not going back in my lathe, its not going back on my mill. Chris, feel free to send it to anyone who thinks they can make it work. I'm over it.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1629 on:** February 18, 2017, 04:11:37 AM »

Chris, did they change or even check the plugs...bad plugs can trick it into codes for misfire if badly worn. 3 coil packs at dealer prices may make you want to grab your ankles and relax for what's coming as it might hurt less.

Cal, or someone like myself or others here whom are adept enough to handle many common failures would be able to teach you how to diagnose your vehicle's trouble codes and things to test for failure or replace, renting an OBD tester at the local auto parts chain. Depends upon what is failing and if you have the time and inclination to learn that skill as well.
I hope they are reasonable with their charges.
David

riverfever · « **Reply #1630 on:** February 18, 2017, 07:14:19 AM »

David I reached out to Revival only to confirm what Cal already suspected/proposed was the issue. I know he's talked to them (them being Stefan) before about some of the very technical aspects of the M Unit. I wasn't trying to bypass him (certainly not throwing him under a bus) but hoped there was a way to salvage all of his hard work and effort on that mount. While he was reaching out to Germany, I figured I could do something besides sit over here. So we're back to the drawing board a bit for the mount and I feel awful about that. It was a complete surprise. I know nothing about machining things but I know it was a royal pain and something that he didn't have to do for me.

And I was kidding when I mentioned the mount going to the show. It's really the one piece on the bike that's custom and looks really sexy. That and the sleeving but it be would be weird to have some sleeving laying on one of those bike benches.

As far as the vehicle is concerned...I typically do my own work on them. Sometimes it takes me a bit longer to diagnose things but I enjoy it (most of the time). This is a vehicle that still has a warranty and that is one of the reasons why it's at a dealer. The other reason is because Jeep Corporate is involved with this vehicle and has been for almost two months now. So working on it in my driveway isn't really an option but I appreciate the offer to help me learn things.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1631 on:** February 18, 2017, 08:35:42 AM »

Jeep needs to stand behind the product and work, and make this right.

riverfever · « **Reply #1632 on:** February 18, 2017, 09:11:21 AM »

The whole thing with corporate getting involved was interesting. I belong to a Jeep forum and posted something about the experience I had with the dealer (didn't mention their name) and just left it at "We'll see how things turn out." Corporate reached out to me to see if they could help which I thought was great. We've spoken on the phone several times now and when they found out that in the 13 months I've owned this vehicle I've had to replace two front axles, two wheel bearings, climate control unit, driver's door switch panel, and now three coil packs, they were alarmed. When the lady found out that one of the technicians ripped my leather seat and then ordered the wrong seat cover, all she could do was laugh and then apologize profusely for laughing. I couldn't blame her. It's been such an epic screw up that there's been times when I could only laugh. I left Jeep a message late yesterday letting them know that, even with a warranty, I've had to sink $1200 into this vehicle during the last month (because of deductibles and things not covered by warranty) and that's not including the $300 payment. We'll see what they come back with.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1633 on:** February 18, 2017, 01:50:02 PM »

I was teasing... i just was baiting you to stir the xhit...a bit. Just didn't put the appropriate smiles.

Sounds like you can claim Lemon Law and get vehicle replaced by Jeep for free with new one without much trouble. Definitely have the evidence and expenses to support. My sister has new CJ and went through several issues with windshield to get it fixed right. Someone hit her door yesterday with another car door messing it up rather badly, she was not happy. Niece has larger new mid size suv Jeep forgetting model. It has been good. Megan's is a white suv and Melissa went with metallic Blue on her CJ.

I'm not trying to be a dick but I guess my teasing has been rougher and too wordy not enough short jabs/digs with a smile or wink...
8O

Sorry.

Didn't remember or know it was new.
Is it back or did they not fix it yet?

You probably have cause for recouping money and refund of vehicle purchase also available, should you choose to do that.

Sorry it has been bad experience.

Cal, that was a nice gift you made Chris.

You could replace the end of the tube and eliminate the threading when you cut it back and a plastic end cap could be fashioned to replace the length and end when you expose more of the mlock for it to function... slip fit that is adhered with a glue that could be softened with a small bit of liquid solvent that would soften the glue but NOT negatively affect the mlock if any were to wick its way to it. Just a thought about ways one might create a housing like this in the future. Anodize the housing and paint the plastic a chrome paint and then coat with a candy paint to match closely. Dye concentrate from HOK maybe as candy color to match... Then gloss clear or matt clear to match sheen. Yeah, complicated but doable with test panels to get to close match. Depends upon how meticulous or trick you want the part...or candy both after experimenting with bases below plastic to get even transition from both pieces...
If it were easy, then anyone would do it.

But, that was your work done your way.
Just thinking about ways to do something similar or need to do something like that...

David

riverfever · « **Reply #1634 on:** February 18, 2017, 03:47:30 PM »

I got another mount for the M Lock made today. It's not glamorous. I used some 1x1 aluminum angle. It started out really ugly but this is how things ended up.

I still need to do a bit more sanding on it and then I'll paint it black. Then I can put the wiring back together and move on.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1635 on:** February 18, 2017, 04:01:31 PM »

Looks good, match the gloss of the frame and it will blend in.
Or is it going to be hidden by tank?
good job!

Camrector · « **Reply #1636 on:** February 18, 2017, 05:34:13 PM »

Wow that looks great man!!
Send me one!!!

riverfever · « **Reply #1637 on:** February 22, 2017, 06:44:52 PM »

Progress is really slow during the week but I got the mount painted and then installed and wired tonight.

Tomorrow night I'll put the horn and M Lock ground back into their bundles and then crudely run the other two M Lock wires to make sure that it functions before finishing the looms on that right side of the frame. Also got another rivet nut installed just above the M Unit (on the bottom side of the seat tube) where two bundles of grounds from the rear will live.

Also got the right turn, start, and horn wired up to the M Unit. Problem is...and I didn't even realize this until just now...that brown wire is not for the horn. It's for the front brake switch. Now I don't have enough length to get to the brake input. So I suppose I'll have to redo that one. Damn it.

Stev-o · « **Reply #1638 on:** February 22, 2017, 07:04:07 PM »

Quote from: riverfever on February 18, 2017, 07:14:19 AM

And I was kidding when I mentioned the mount going to the show...

Send me the mount, I'll make sure it makes it to the Show!

PS. Dump the Jeep and buy a 4Runner. We've had a couple and they were great vehicles

calj737 · « **Reply #1639 on:** February 22, 2017, 07:20:17 PM »

Chris - Switch the BROWN wire at the BRAKE control up front with the HORN. Use the HORN wire to be your new BRAKE. See, this is why I told you not to use an M-Button. These types of wire changes are very easy as you have it laid out.

Yeah, send Stev-o that POS mount I screwed up. If anyone can make that thing useful, he can.

riverfever · « **Reply #1640 on:** February 25, 2017, 06:30:01 AM »

Thursday night and last night I was able to get that brown wire swapped out. I also was able to hook up the wires for the M Lock and test it to see if it worked and it was fine. Last night I ran as many wires as possible to the M Unit and tested the switches and buttons and everything that's wired up works fine. Then I went in and started to configure the M Unit. This was pretty cool because I was finally able to actually see (and not just hear about or read) some of the things it can do. I set the turn signals up to run as parking lights as well (sent 30% power to them) and programmed the turns to cancel after 10S. I programmed the M Unit to recognize only one wire on the rear tail/brake light.

The one issue I found at the end was that the led for turn left OUTPUT is on all the time and that shouldn't be the case. Not sure what the problem is but I did find one member here who had the same issue back in 2015 and sent him a message last night because the thread was never updated. This morning I'm going to verify that all wires are coming from and going to the correct destinations and I'll put the menu back to default settings and see if the issue goes away. Today I'll also wire the rear turn signals and tail light, run the looms and start tidying up input/output looms right at the M Unit and cutting the wires.

540nova · « **Reply #1641 on:** February 25, 2017, 08:27:32 AM »

I would not configure turn signals to act as parking lights unless you like dead batteries. I have mine configured to act as running lights, maybe that's what you meant?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

riverfever · « **Reply #1642 on:** February 25, 2017, 08:34:26 AM »

Yes...that's what I meant. Sorry for the confusion.

calj737 · « **Reply #1643 on:** February 25, 2017, 11:07:35 AM »

And Squirrel is running m-blaze pins so the draw is very low.

540nova · « **Reply #1644 on:** February 25, 2017, 02:08:53 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on February 25, 2017, 11:07:35 AM

And Squirrel is running m-blaze pins so the draw is very low.

Me, too. LOVE those little jewels!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

riverfever · « **Reply #1645 on:** February 26, 2017, 06:52:22 AM »

Wanted to update this because I believe I found the issue with the left turn led staying lit on output side. When configuring the M Unit I was counting the CONFIG port as the 5th one so I was really one off on the menus. Things got really ugly after I accidentally switched from the default 5 push button controls to newer style Ducati controls. I eventually went back in and set everything back to default settings (and paid closer attention to the manual) and got everything set up yesterday morning before disconnecting it all again.

Yesterday I was able to get the rear turns wired up. That was the most challenging part of the wiring for me so far. As someone who just doesn't really understand electricity and wiring, I just had a real hard time wrapping my head around how it all needed to be and where things needed to go. I'll post some pics here in a minute.

riverfever · « **Reply #1646 on:** February 26, 2017, 07:31:08 AM »

I'm a visual guy so hopefully this will help someone else who decides to get an old motorcycle for their first project. I knew I was going to have to use diodes to run the led turns but, if I'm being honest, I didn't even know what a diode was until yesterday. I would have preferred these to be on the wires for the front turns but I wasn't about to tear those looms apart so I started looking at how to make it clean with the wiring for the rear. After laying the wiring for the rear turns out I cut the power wires so I could solder in a wire that I would use to connect to a diode to. These are the orange and blue power wires back together with the spliced wire doing a u turn and a diode soldered in on each wire. I covered each individual soldered connection here (including the diodes), then used sleeving on each wire to keep things separate. Then once I had the looms built again I twisted the diode ends together and soldered them. After doing anything along the way, I tested to make sure that the turns and indicator led worked.

Here the yellow wire is soldered to both diodes. The looms were routed under the frame and into the area that the air box lives but I wanted to be able to remove everything if I needed to down the road so you can see I ended up cutting the yellow and then added in spade connectors. I also taped both looms together and then shrunk over the ugly tape.

Looms are tucked into their place and secured to the frame, the yellow wire is covered in shrink for a bit more protection and just to help hide it. Spade connectors are covered in shrink as well so there won't be any shorts and I can get to them if I need to later on. The tail/brake light loom still needs to be routed with the turn looms and then I'll deal with the grounds for turns, brake, R/R, starter solenoid and M Unit to chassis. If you look closely you can barely make out the fastener on the frame (bottom side) just above the R/R. That's where all those grounds will go and then these power wires will just drop right down to OUTPUT side.

riverfever · « **Reply #1647 on:** March 04, 2017, 06:11:03 PM »

Worked on things a bit last night and a bit more today. Got everything on the M Unit buttoned up.

Bit more.

Next up is reinstalling the R/R, wiring it up to the stator and running the wires to the oil and neutral switch. Then all wiring should be done.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1648 on:** March 04, 2017, 09:57:56 PM »

That's a very tidy wiring job, Chris!

Stev-o · « **Reply #1649 on:** March 05, 2017, 06:27:31 AM »

You, sir, missed your calling as an electrician!

Ps. Any squirrel news?!

News:

Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 283527 times)