Author Topic: 1976 CB550 build (Read 11037 times)

Carny cafe · « **Reply #25 on:** October 30, 2014, 04:38:06 PM »

I do. You need to get the bracket for the rear drum from Devine at cognito moto. You just use the old spring mount and attach it to his bracket adaptor.

Slinky · « **Reply #26 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:04:45 PM »

Quote from: Slinky on October 29, 2014, 06:25:25 PM

Here's my mounts

Yes but you see the rear splne is what is in the way,... so It looks like I can just cut it off and use that for the return spring?

Carny cafe · « **Reply #27 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:30:51 PM »

This is what you need. It will attach the stock spring to one end and the drum break line to the other. Here is a pick of mine as well with the setup. I am pointing at where to attach the spring.

Carny cafe · « **Reply #28 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:32:03 PM »

Hopefully I'm being helpful here and not making things worse. $:-\$

Slinky · « **Reply #29 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:42:20 PM »

haha thanks for the pics man make a lot more sense, but only question I still have is... You cut of the factory brake spline holder right?? Cause I don't see it there and that is the only thing holding me back from cutting mine off.

Carny cafe · « **Reply #30 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:49:23 PM »

Yes it's cut off. It gets in the way of the bracket and rearset. That's why you need the cognito adaptor.
It's offset so you won't have a bent rod activating the drum brake and allows a more linear force of the spring instead of adding force on an diagonal direction.

Slinky · « **Reply #31 on:** October 30, 2014, 05:59:51 PM »

Awesome that is all I was stuck on!! I'm excited to get cutting and put these on!! haah

Slinky · « **Reply #32 on:** October 30, 2014, 06:01:32 PM »

while we are here, any suggestion on turn signals? Since they "thread" on.. need some smaller ones

Carny cafe · « **Reply #33 on:** October 30, 2014, 06:09:13 PM »

Lol happy cutting and grinding smooth!!! Turn signals... Any aftermarket one really. Hard the say because it really depends on the look of your bike. Most of them have the same thread so really you should be able to buy whatever you'd like. If it doesn't fit just use the bolt supplied or drill out and tap the hole or again, use the bolt supplied. That said sometimes wiri can be funky due to American style wiring and Japanese style wiring.

Slinky · « **Reply #34 on:** October 30, 2014, 06:52:40 PM »

Yeh I just hate how the ground wires are used in the stock headlight bucket. stupid

Slinky · « **Reply #35 on:** October 31, 2014, 02:29:18 PM »

Can anyone tell me if this green dual outlet wire does anything?? Also does it look like my headlight is wired up right? ( green/blue/white)

Slinky · « **Reply #36 on:** October 31, 2014, 03:21:26 PM »

Sweet, I think I have no power to headlight because my right hand switch. The insides melted apart and was covered on brake fluid. Starter button works once in a blue
Moon. Not looking to spend $70 on a new switch if it's not the issue

Slinky · « **Reply #37 on:** October 31, 2014, 03:23:52 PM »

There has to be a way to bypass that, I don't plan on using the starter anyways

Slinky · « **Reply #38 on:** November 01, 2014, 08:25:57 AM »

Yeh, i'll check it out again.. I know its hard to find a wiring diagram for the F, which of course is different

Slinky · « **Reply #39 on:** November 01, 2014, 08:44:32 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on October 31, 2014, 08:58:57 PM

Power to headlight should be coming from left side switch, not right. Here's a color coded wiring diagram to help.

Primary function of right side is KILL/RUN switch. That has to work else no power to coils. The YELLOW/RED wire is the electric start button.

Cognito sells a decent metal housing replacement switch for $48 that I use on my 550. Takes a bit of wiring as colors differ, but it's vintage in appearance and much better than the crappy Emgo units.

But what I mean is the starter button kills headlight when you press it to help the battery. So basically when that switch melts it kills power to your headlight.. replace switch and presto... at least that's what I've been reading

Slinky · « **Reply #40 on:** November 01, 2014, 09:49:37 AM »

Ya headlights about to go to a toggle i just wasted another hr trying to get it working with no luck. And apparently it's impossible to get the airbox back on so in going to pods and rejetting.

Slinky · « **Reply #41 on:** November 01, 2014, 10:14:00 AM »

well I just happened to hit the starter and it cranked over... So I took apart the left hand controls.. looks like I broke a wire when notching them for clubmans

Blue, White wires broken... makes sense now... I hope

Slinky · « **Reply #42 on:** November 01, 2014, 06:09:36 PM »

used the works toilet bowl cleaner in my tank, worked great but now the damn rust wotn stop coming out!! lol

goldarrow · « **Reply #43 on:** November 01, 2014, 06:59:16 PM »

After you cleaned it, you need to coat it with ATF or something to fog it

Slinky · « **Reply #44 on:** November 01, 2014, 07:31:08 PM »

yeh i threw some sea foam in there to help with flash rust.. but have to go at it again tomorrow again to get rest of rust out

goldarrow · « **Reply #45 on:** November 01, 2014, 08:42:04 PM »

If you have to go at it again, wd40 after cleaning, then ATF

Slinky · « **Reply #46 on:** November 02, 2014, 08:19:12 AM »

Yup. I'm gonna pressure was it today... Turns out these bikes are a lot of work

Slinky · « **Reply #47 on:** November 02, 2014, 04:49:41 PM »

Yeh far away !! Lol I just want to get it running at least 99% before cosmetic mods

Slinky · « **Reply #48 on:** November 18, 2014, 06:19:20 PM »

Got my pods and jets in from DCC!! Can't wait to install them.

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Author Topic: 1976 CB550 build (Read 11037 times)