Topic: Carb slider don't want to come out!!!

[jpfrk2001]

Hey all, Im working on my carbs right now. It is a 1978 CB550F

I am working on tearing #1 apart. I got all the way down to trying to remove the slider/needle assembly from the body. It appears to be "stuck" Don't want to come out. Im going to mix up a cocktail of 91 octane, seafoam, Marvel Mystery oil and let is soak for a day. Im hoping that will do the trick.

Any one else have any advice. What am I missing? I do have the Service Manuel downloaded for reference. But I think It gives instruction for a completely different carbs.

Mine are the Keihin PD ones.

Hierisluv?

[ekpent]

Before you make the gas bomb try some heat from a heat gun if the slide is stuck from maybe some gas residue/varnish.

[MoMo]

Before you make the gas bomb try some heat from a heat gun if the slide is stuck from maybe some gas residue/varnish.

Yep, usually the easiest and fastest method is the heat gun...Larry

[Don R]

Substitute laquer thinner or zylene for the gas. Gas is what made it like that. Heat can be the secret but patience is critical, the posts are easy to break off. If you get any movement go back and forth to work the carb cleaner in and be careful to not mushroom the ends of the pins or bend them.
 When you walk away the carb cleaner dries and the varnish grabs again. I'm working on a set that had the fuel left on for years. Looks like the labrea tar pits inside. I think there was a dinosaur bone in there.

[jpfrk2001]

Ok, thanks guys. I will go get a heat gun today.

And to late on the gas bomb. Already made, Carb is fully soaking right now, covered up with a lid, sitting in the sun. How's that for a gas bomb? 

[MoMo]

Ok, thanks guys. I will go get a heat gun today.

And to late on the gas bomb. Already made, Carb is fully soaking right now, covered up with a lid, sitting in the sun. How's that for a gas bomb? 

Yea,  use a lighter instead of the heat gun, it'll come apart read quick ...Larry

[jpfrk2001]

Ok, thanks guys. I will go get a heat gun today.

And to late on the gas bomb. Already made, Carb is fully soaking right now, covered up with a lid, sitting in the sun. How's that for a gas bomb? 

Yea,  use a lighter instead of the heat gun, it'll come apart read quick ...Larry

Most definatly going to use a open flame, heat gun, with a bottle of NOS slowly purging to add more oxygen content. All working in my shop, on a wooden work bench!!

haha.

Seriously, I will wait for the gas mixture to evaporate before applying heat. I may use my compressed air to aid in this.

[ekpent]

I have contacted Homeland Security-----------------------   

[jpfrk2001]

haha.

Ok, I got it out. Then I dropped the carb back in the cocktail. Still gotta get a little spring out in one area, and a o-ring in the other area.

AND.....

I stripped one screw head trying to remove the needle from the assembly!!! Had to turn it upside down, drill it out from the backside. I was able to get it out and did not damage any threads.. So..

Were is the best place to get replacement hardware?

Im thinking of a RC Car and airplane store.

Any one?

Im really buggering this up. Not even done with my first carb. Still have 3 to go. And I am already searching for replacement hardware. Great times!!

[jpfrk2001]

Size is M3 x 8

[flybox1]

Size is M3 x 8

your local HW store 

[jpfrk2001]

Size is M3 x 8

your local HW store 

I hope so. Im going to stop at Ace on the way back to work. Taking the slider with the good screw installed. I will buy a batch to cover the other 3.

[jpfrk2001]

Just for some info for all of you:

The size of the little screws holding the needle in the slider is a M3 x .50 x 8mm

Ace Hardware was able to rescue my Ass. But appearently you will be getting 2 MM Allen head button screws. So, you will need to go get a hobbiest 2mm allen driver. Look into  Horizon hobby for this tool or your local RC Hobby Shop.

[rb550four]

  Were you able to get the floats out? Sometimes you can't get the pin hot enough with a heatgun without risking damage to the float, in this case I use a soldering iron on the brass between the floats , it gets the pin warmed up enough to weaken the varnish allowing movement with little force. Like Don R said the posts can break off easily and it requires patience.

[bjbuchanan]

I like to use xylene, it is some badddd stuff. It will eat all that varnish and everything else like a fat kid in front of a carvel cake. Just don't get it on your hands, very uncomfortable feeling until it is washed off well. Nasty head buzz too if you linger over it for a bit but it cleans well

[oldschoolcarbs]

If you send me a SASE I'll give you enough M3 screws of the proper variety--JIS with captive lockwasher.

Find my info here: http://www.oldschoolcarbs.com

Not to be pushing stuff but I've also got JIS driver sets, which any Jap bike owner should have.

Jack

[ekpent]

I like to use xylene, it is some badddd stuff. It will eat all that varnish and everything else like a fat kid in front of a carvel cake. Just don't get it on your hands, very uncomfortable feeling until it is washed off well. Nasty head buzz too if you linger over it for a bit but it cleans well

I worked at factory once were we had a 55 gallon barrel of xylene at all times on hand for cleaning purposes. One of the guys there got hooked huffing that stuff, remember him always having a bottle of it and a rag in his car. Wonder what his internal parts look like nowadays if he is still alive.