Topic: "The Basement Build!" 1973 Cb350F

[Stev-o]

Use WD-40 and 000 steel wool to clean up the exhaust.

[2strokeTrush]

Use WD-40 and 000 steel wool to clean up the exhaust.

Thank you! its those kind of little tips that come in handy! I told you we would find somewhere you could help out!  Ill try that!

[2strokeTrush]

Got her down in the workshop Sunday!


Bike won't stay on this table its to high.  ill have to get some guys and help me lift her down.


Began removing the Carbs and Cables. But i am confused on how to get these off the cables so i can take the old cables off? (Im sure its a Noob Question, but if someone could explain i would appreciate it!


Carbs actually look decent


Air Intake Box is torn and looks like it has been tampered with before, Not sure if i should try and fix it or buy a new one.


Hoping to get a few hours in this week!  Keep the help coming!

[calj737]

They're double-nutted. Use 2 box wrenches, one on either nuts. Hold the nut nearest the carbs till, and loosen the other. Then chase the loose nut with the one you held still. It's a method of adjusting cables.

[2strokeTrush]

They're double-nutted. Use 2 box wrenches, one on either nuts. Hold the nut nearest the carbs till, and loosen the other. Then chase the loose nut with the one you held still. It's a method of adjusting cables.

Alright thanks that makes sense.  Is it hard to get new cables back on?? I will be replacing them sometime....

[Stev-o]

Highly recommend you buying or downloading the service manual so you can read about the simple tasks.

Looks as though the air box was sealed by the PO, remove the goop and look for damage.

[silentsvn]

Highly recommend you buying or downloading the service manual so you can read about the simple tasks.

Looks as though the air box was sealed by the PO, remove the goop and look for damage.

If you need a new airbox let me know I have one.

[2strokeTrush]

Highly recommend you buying or downloading the service manual so you can read about the simple tasks.

Looks as though the air box was sealed by the PO, remove the goop and look for damage.

I have ordered the service manual, but its still not here yet   Right now i have been working out of my Owners Manual.  I was to excited about finally having the bike down there i had to get down and do something!

[2strokeTrush]

Highly recommend you buying or downloading the service manual so you can read about the simple tasks.

Looks as though the air box was sealed by the PO, remove the goop and look for damage.

If you need a new airbox let me know I have one.

I will let you know what i decide to do, what would yours cost me since I'm such a great returning customer???

[2strokeTrush]

Thanks for the help, i feel like a dork for asking such a simple question.  Well i got the carbs off about a hour ago!


Figured out why number 3 seemed to leak every once in a while...


Honestly i have only worked on 3 other carbs before and they were all singles, Nothing nearly as sophisticated as these.  I guess they don't look to bad on the outside?


Again with the number 3 carb-Looks like the gasket just plain melted or something


Ports look good


Its hard to tell in the pictures, but in the gaskets and the place the gasket goes there is this grey "goop" looks like grey clay, except its sticky, Any Ideas??


I had planned to have a member here who is known for his excellent carb work, ( harisuluv ) But he charges like 300$ and I'm not sure i want to spend that just on cleaning, i may find someone else.  Thoughts??

[silentsvn]

I will let you know what i decide to do, what would yours cost me since I'm such a great returning customer???

I spoke to soon and sold it sorry haha

I had planned to have a member here who is known for his excellent carb work, ( harisuluv ) But he charges like 300$ and I'm not sure i want to spend that just on cleaning, i may find someone else.  Thoughts??

If you don't want to have Harisuluv do it which I highly recommend. I had him do mine and it solved a world of hate I was up against. You could go get yourself a ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and do it yourself. Its just a pain in the ass with these carbs. A lot of guys will charge a premium to do them.


Your #3 looks like someone took the bowl off and couldn't get the gasket back on since it was exposed to fuel and expanded. So they put some sort of silicon on the bowl.

When you get the rebuild kits get the molded ones will make your life easier.

[2strokeTrush]

I will let you know what i decide to do, what would yours cost me since I'm such a great returning customer???

I spoke to soon and sold it sorry haha

I had planned to have a member here who is known for his excellent carb work, ( harisuluv ) But he charges like 300$ and I'm not sure i want to spend that just on cleaning, i may find someone else.  Thoughts??

If you don't want to have Harisuluv do it which I highly recommend. I had him do mine and it solved a world of hate I was up against. You could go get yourself a ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and do it yourself. Its just a pain in the ass with these carbs. A lot of guys will charge a premium to do them.


Your #3 looks like someone took the bowl off and couldn't get the gasket back on since it was exposed to fuel and expanded. So they put some sort of silicon on the bowl.

When you get the rebuild kits get the molded ones will make your life easier.

Ahh its ok ill fins one somewhere!
He does great work and i would love to have to not worry about carbs at all, but like you said, they charge a premium! when you sent yours away to him did you buy new gaskets and send them as well?

[silentsvn]

Ahh its ok ill fins one somewhere!
He does great work and i would love to have to not worry about carbs at all, but like you said, they charge a premium! when you sent yours away to him did you buy new gaskets and send them as well?

Nope. Just the carbs. The price includes the rebuild kits which I think are 30 a piece for these. So it adds up real quick.

He has a forum rate too so PM him might help you out.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stev-o]

That broken hose is not the cause of a leak, it is an overflow and that tells me that you have an issue (stuck float?). 
+1 someone has been playing with your carbs and not knowing what to do, they're should be no goop!
Clean properly rebuilt carbs are prolly the #1 most important to having these bikes run great. 
Haris is a pro and these services don't come cheap, if you go elsewhere, you will get what you pay for. 
On the other hand, if you have an ultra sonic cleaner and willingness to learn, you can do it!
(I'll be sending him a rack for soda blasting next week). 

Good luck.

[2strokeTrush]

That broken hose is not the cause of a leak, it is an overflow and that tells me that you have an issue (stuck float?). 
+1 someone has been playing with your carbs and not knowing what to do, they're should be no goop!
Clean properly rebuilt carbs are prolly the #1 most important to having these bikes run great. 
Haris is a pro and these services don't come cheap, if you go elsewhere, you will get what you pay for. 
On the other hand, if you have an ultra sonic cleaner and willingness to learn, you can do it!
(I'll be sending him a rack for soda blasting next week). 

Good luck.

Sorry i meant the leak from the carbs from time to time, that must be where the fuel is spilling from when ( I assume ) the float is stuck, but i plan to run all new fuel lines.  Happen to know a god place to get them?

Ahh its ok ill fins one somewhere!
He does great work and i would love to have to not worry about carbs at all, but like you said, they charge a premium! when you sent yours away to him did you buy new gaskets and send them as well?

Nope. Just the carbs. The price includes the rebuild kits which I think are 30 a piece for these. So it adds up real quick.

He has a forum rate too so PM him might help you out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok well that does make me feel a little better about the price, plus i know he knows how to "reset" the carbs to where they should run at optimal levels.

[bjbuchanan]

Harisluv does top notch work but give this some consideration. You aren't starting with corroded carbs that have sat and been neglected. You also aren't dealing with a bike that ran like crap, it just got molested by the PO.

If I were you I would clean them well with some wire, brushes....Plenty of carb rebuild threads out there to reference. I'm 23 so i'm not "too" much older in the sense we are dealing with tech before our time. I rebuilt carbs  plenty, it is simple. People get caught up because they are lazy and spray carb cleaner all over them and then scratch their head because they don't get why it didn't work.

Get bowl gaskets and float valve and seat. The float needle valve and its seat is the only wear item and OEM brass parts are better than aftermarket. Don't learn the hard way like we all have that the 30$ kits only get robbed of the gasket and needle valve in the end.

You can look up these stock levels anywhere, he can't do any better than you can because it is common knowledge. Slide needle height, pilot jet and main jet size and how many turns out the air screw is. If you don't deviate in a big way from stock leave it be.

Here is all the stock specs for all of our bikes
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/specs.html

[2strokeTrush]

Harisluv does top notch work but give this some consideration. You aren't starting with corroded carbs that have sat and been neglected. You also aren't dealing with a bike that ran like crap, it just got molested by the PO.

If I were you I would clean them well with some wire, brushes....Plenty of carb rebuild threads out there to reference. I'm 23 so i'm not "too" much older in the sense we are dealing with tech before our time. I rebuilt carbs  plenty, it is simple. People get caught up because they are lazy and spray carb cleaner all over them and then scratch their head because they don't get why it didn't work.

Get bowl gaskets and float valve and seat. The float needle valve and its seat is the only wear item and OEM brass parts are better than aftermarket. Don't learn the hard way like we all have that the 30$ kits only get robbed of the gasket and needle valve in the end.

You can look up these stock levels anywhere, he can't do any better than you can because it is common knowledge. Slide needle height, pilot jet and main jet size and how many turns out the air screw is. If you don't deviate in a big way from stock leave it be.

Here is all the stock specs for all of our bikes
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/specs.html

Thanks for the imput man, I'm not to worried about making a decision just yet because obviously i don't need them cleaned and working right now, but you have defiantly given me more to think about, and I'm not to bad with the cleaning and polishing part, its more of the setting them back to stock setting and making sure all screws are turned out to Spec, but like you said, i can find that info.

[2strokeTrush]

Sort of off topic, but i forgot to add i just purchased a Dremel Tool, for use building a bed-light bar in my Toyota Pickup, but i have already run across uses for it on the bike! Highly recommend anyone who "tinkers" to have one!

Best 42$ Ever. Period


And i finished up the bed light-bar for the truck.  Will work great for camping/ hunting, but allowed me to add a more professional Cb Radio Antenna, and lights of course!


Tailgaters Beware!!

[dagersh]

Definitely try to tackle the carbs yourself.  All these are is single carbs on a rack.

Get yourself separate Tupperware containers for each carb and then one extra for the linkages, fuel hoses, etc.  Then get yourself 4 small containers (spraycan tops, or small Tupperware that seal) for the jets, needles and floats.  Number everything 1 - 4 and keep all your carb parts in their corresponding containers.

Take a ton of pictures and write yourself diagrams/notes on what went where and how it goes back together.

I was petrified to tackle this on my CB550F carbs, but I am really glad I did, as I now have a much better understanding of how it all works.

Harisuluv does fantastic work, and I have no desire to pan his business, but understanding your carbs is important.

Gersh

[flybox1]

Harisluv does top notch work but give this some consideration. You aren't starting with corroded carbs that have sat and been neglected. You also aren't dealing with a bike that ran like crap, it just got molested by the PO.

If I were you I would clean them well with some wire, brushes....Plenty of carb rebuild threads out there to reference. I'm 23 so i'm not "too" much older in the sense we are dealing with tech before our time. I rebuilt carbs  plenty, it is simple. People get caught up because they are lazy and spray carb cleaner all over them and then scratch their head because they don't get why it didn't work.

Get bowl gaskets and float valve and seat. The float needle valve and its seat is the only wear item and OEM brass parts are better than aftermarket. Don't learn the hard way like we all have that the 30$ kits only get robbed of the gasket and needle valve in the end.

You can look up these stock levels anywhere, he can't do any better than you can because it is common knowledge. Slide needle height, pilot jet and main jet size and how many turns out the air screw is. If you don't deviate in a big way from stock leave it be.

Here is all the stock specs for all of our bikes
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/specs.html

Thanks for the imput man, I'm not to worried about making a decision just yet because obviously i don't need them cleaned and working right now, but you have defiantly given me more to think about, and I'm not to bad with the cleaning and polishing part, its more of the setting them back to stock setting and making sure all screws are turned out to Spec, but like you said, i can find that info.

Agreed.  Do it all yourself so you know how.  350F was my first sohc4, and it was a great bike.  You'll enjoy yours. 

[2strokeTrush]

Definitely try to tackle the carbs yourself.  All these are is single carbs on a rack.

Get yourself separate Tupperware containers for each carb and then one extra for the linkages, fuel hoses, etc.  Then get yourself 4 small containers (spraycan tops, or small Tupperware that seal) for the jets, needles and floats.  Number everything 1 - 4 and keep all your carb parts in their corresponding containers.

Take a ton of pictures and write yourself diagrams/notes on what went where and how it goes back together.

I was petrified to tackle this on my CB550F carbs, but I am really glad I did, as I now have a much better understanding of how it all works.

Harisuluv does fantastic work, and I have no desire to pan his business, but understanding your carbs is important.

Gersh

Well with my Dime City Cycles shopping cart totaling 275$ i think this is going to be my plan now, plus ill get the better understanding of how these work!

[2strokeTrush]

Harisluv does top notch work but give this some consideration. You aren't starting with corroded carbs that have sat and been neglected. You also aren't dealing with a bike that ran like crap, it just got molested by the PO.

If I were you I would clean them well with some wire, brushes....Plenty of carb rebuild threads out there to reference. I'm 23 so i'm not "too" much older in the sense we are dealing with tech before our time. I rebuilt carbs  plenty, it is simple. People get caught up because they are lazy and spray carb cleaner all over them and then scratch their head because they don't get why it didn't work.

Get bowl gaskets and float valve and seat. The float needle valve and its seat is the only wear item and OEM brass parts are better than aftermarket. Don't learn the hard way like we all have that the 30$ kits only get robbed of the gasket and needle valve in the end.

You can look up these stock levels anywhere, he can't do any better than you can because it is common knowledge. Slide needle height, pilot jet and main jet size and how many turns out the air screw is. If you don't deviate in a big way from stock leave it be.

Here is all the stock specs for all of our bikes
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/specs.html

Thanks for the imput man, I'm not to worried about making a decision just yet because obviously i don't need them cleaned and working right now, but you have defiantly given me more to think about, and I'm not to bad with the cleaning and polishing part, its more of the setting them back to stock setting and making sure all screws are turned out to Spec, but like you said, i can find that info.

Agreed.  Do it all yourself so you know how.  350F was my first sohc4, and it was a great bike.  You'll enjoy yours.

Thanks, and i absolutely love it!  People always ask me why i ride a old, relatively small motorcycle?? I then let them take it around the block-They only come back with one question...Where can i get one!?

I really enjoyed last summer with the bike, only drove my truck maybe 1 day a week.  But i think with what i have planned for her she will look great and hopefully perform better then before!

[2strokeTrush]

well i haven't had to much time this week to be down working on her but I kept myself busy when i could, cleaning 41 years worth of oil and grease off her and taking off a few more little things.

Points cover off.  I will be replacing the points and condensers with a OEM Tune up Kit.


Front sprocket and chain off,  Looks like i will need to pick up some oven cleaner soon!


Normal carbon buildup on the exhaust manifold??


My next project will be removing the handlebars, i have read many threads about the easiest way to do this, but have also seen it can be challenging.  Does anyone have any advice on that? I will be replacing them with pre-drilled Cb400f Bars.

[Stev-o]

A few random thoughts:

Dont buy cheap-ass points.
Buy Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner except if you want to clean your oven!
Did you remove the exhaust gasket at the head? Yes, the carbon residue looks normal.

BTW - what parts do you need? I've been seeing a lot of 350F parts for sale lately.

[2strokeTrush]

A few random thoughts:

Dont buy cheap-ass points.
Buy Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner except if you want to clean your oven!
Did you remove the exhaust gasket at the head? Yes, the carbon residue looks normal.

BTW - what parts do you need? I've been seeing a lot of 350F parts for sale lately.

What kind of point do you recommend? Thanks for the tip on the cleaner.  And i am looking for a Airbox, Headlight, maybe more Im sure i will come across something i need or could use.  And when i took of the pipes i removed the 2 piece clamps and then the piece that holds the pipes and clamps to the manifold. Not sure if thats what your referring to though. Thats all that was there.