Topic: Cb500F What have I gotten myself into??

[grcamna2]

Hi Tyler,
I hope you don't ride the CB500 anymore until you service that clutch/actuator and cable;it'll work out so don't give up on that solid Vintage CB500 Beauty 

[Stev-o]

+1, don't ride it till you clean inside tha L crankcase cover and confirm you have all parts and are not damaged.  These guys just helped me with mine, it should look at least as clean as this...

[2strokeTrush]

Thanks guys, no worries I won't be riding her.  Stev-o what did you use to clean that up? Mine is s heavily caked with grease.

Hi Tyler,
I hope you don't ride the CB500 anymore until you service that clutch/actuator and cable;it'll work out so don't give up on that solid Vintage CB500 Beauty 

+1, don't ride it till you clean inside tha L crankcase cover and confirm you have all parts and are not damaged.  These guys just helped me with mine, it should look at least as clean as this...

[Stev-o]

I used Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner.

BTW - the neutral light does not light up for false neutrals.

[2strokeTrush]

I used Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner.

BTW - the neutral light does not light up for false neutrals.

Thanks I will pick some up.  Yep I knew about the light and false neutrals, confused me at first though:)

[dave500]

if it starts popping out of third when applying a few times itll be damaging the fork in side and rounding the engagement dogs worse each time,flushing the oil might help,the 550 had a more solid design for the shifter mechanism.

[2strokeTrush]

if it starts popping out of third when applying a few times itll be damaging the fork in side and rounding the engagement dogs worse each time,flushing the oil might help,the 550 had a more solid design for the shifter mechanism.

Is there a way to see what parts are worn and need replacing? My local salvage yard has 4 500s that i know of sitting around i could rob some parts off

[dave500]

the actual shift drum is located better in the 550s,on the 500s it can move sideways a little as you shift,this is half the problem,combined with a worn or bent fork and worn dogs on the meshing gears itll jump out badly all the time,yours might be ok once its been run properly and you get the hang of it,you couldn't even find neutral before,some transmissions need a little skill,sort of preload each up shift so its more positive,make sure the foot lever isn't loose on its shaft

[calj737]

Clean it all up first, Tyler. Then make sure the cable and clutch lifter are properly adjusted before you determine you need to replace at worn items.

[2strokeTrush]

Alright guys, used my first saturday off in quite a while to attempt to make some headway on the clutch issue.  Cleaned the inside of the cover to a near polish inside making sure no grease was left around the corkscrew piece and movable spring.  I ordered a new clutch cable as well.  Maybe the clearer pictures will be able to tell something more then before.....Watch the youtube link first

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjVFn0G-ztI&feature=youtu.be

















And because nobody ever complains about more pictures .........















Okay one more.......

[calj737]

Watched the video,  but didn't tell us much. A couple of questions:

1. Did you find and reinstall the steel ball on the left end of the lifter rod? The lifter rod is the long piece that traverses the engine.

2. Engine oil is an important aspect of the clutch in these bikes. Have you drained and replaced the oil, and if so, what oil did you use? (Calm down everyone, not trying to start a popcorn rest!)

3. You indicate you ordered a new clutch cable, but is it installed?

4. Left side cover, the corkscrew. Did you re-grease when you installed it? There's a grease nipple beside it on the outer side that you can use in the future. Upon reassembly, grease it by hand and install. The slot in that corkscrew is used to adjust the travel of the lifter rod (moving left to right thru the engine). Imagine it not being adjusted fully and not "pushing" the plates apart far enough.


False neutrals- these can be from wear on the dogs and gears in the transmission. But, they can also be from an improperly adjusted clutch where the engagement/disengagement is not complete. Since you indicate that the bike gets "stuck" in a higher gear, I suspect you have both an improperly adjusted cable AND some wear on the clutch plates themselves.

If this bike sat for quite a while, it is very common for the plates to become a bit stuck together. On the right side, there's a cover that has the clutch basket, and alternating steel/friction discs. These are held in place with clutch springs. The plates need to fully separate when the clutch cable is pulled, then "squeeze" together fully to engage the gear. So think thru that process, and you can quickly understand the nuances of a proper clutch adjustment.

TwoTired just posted a response for another member on the full aspects of the clutch on this model, and it's worth the read if you can locate it. Post back your answers to the questions above, and now that everything is cleaned up on that cover, we can start to diagnose the pieces.

Clutch adjustments are Black Magic. It is extremely tedious to get right the first time you undertake it, especially with little experience. Be patient. Dave or TT will chime in and give you the step-by-step on how to adjust it properly and accurately. Then we can decide if you need replacement of any items.

By the way, if your lifter rod is shot, (looked awfully rusty in the picture, did it come clean?) PM me. I've got a brand new stainless one I made and you're welcome to the extra one (I made 2). I don't have the steel ball bearing though...

[wowbagger]

Yeah, that steel ball needs to be inside the corkscrew and the push rod butts up against it. Also, measure the push rod. It should be a full 10 1/8 inches. Any shorter and it has worn down and can cause shifting issues. Lastly, (and maybe I missed this part) disassemble the corkscrew and make sure that the top edges are not cracked on the clutch lifter. Looking at the cable arm, I doubt it's an issue for you but it's worth inspecting while it's apart. Here's the fiche:

The steel ball is part #18:
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb500-500-four-k0-1971-usa_model459/partslist/E++11.html#results

[2strokeTrush]

Watched the video,  but didn't tell us much. A couple of questions:

1. Did you find and reinstall the steel ball on the left end of the lifter rod? The lifter rod is the long piece that traverses the engine.

2. Engine oil is an important aspect of the clutch in these bikes. Have you drained and replaced the oil, and if so, what oil did you use? (Calm down everyone, not trying to start a popcorn rest!)

3. You indicate you ordered a new clutch cable, but is it installed?

4. Left side cover, the corkscrew. Did you re-grease when you installed it? There's a grease nipple beside it on the outer side that you can use in the future. Upon reassembly, grease it by hand and install. The slot in that corkscrew is used to adjust the travel of the lifter rod (moving left to right thru the engine). Imagine it not being adjusted fully and not "pushing" the plates apart far enough.

Thanks as always man, great info. 
1.  No steal bearing, must have gone with the wind, can these still be found?
2. Yep changed the oil and filter, used top quality Honda Oil.
3.  No clutch cable is still in the mail!
4. Havnt regressed it yet, but i did locate the nipple I plan to.  And does the lifter rod look usable? If not I can try to clean it, an if that doesn't prevail I would be more then happy to take that off your hands!

[calj737]

Look at the parts fiche and order that ball. It's required. I'd suggest removing the corkscrew and manually greasing it. The nipple is good for maintenance. If you overdo it while assembled and dry, the excess will gush into your cover. And guess what a mess that will make...

Take the lifter rod out again, clean it well, and run a wire wheel over it the end sections. If it comes up smooth and clean, then you're good. If not, PM me your address again. I'll post it off to you Monday.

[2strokeTrush]

Look at the parts fiche and order that ball. It's required. I'd suggest removing the corkscrew and manually greasing it. The nipple is good for maintenance. If you overdo it while assembled and dry, the excess will gush into your cover. And guess what a mess that will make...

Take the lifter rod out again, clean it well, and run a wire wheel over it the end sections. If it comes up smooth and clean, then you're good. If not, PM me your address again. I'll post it off to you Monday.

Alright sounds good,  How exactly do you disassemble the corkscrew?

[calj737]

Have a look at that parts fiche posted above by Wowbagger. If I recall correctly, I disassembled mine from the inside. It's pretty simple once you get started.

[Stev-o]

The ball is available here.....


http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-96211-10000.html

[wowbagger]

If you remove the screw on the outside of the cover, it releases the clamp piece that holds the lifter mechanism to the cover. Then you can just push the entire lifter mechanism out of the cover. One it's out the two halves of the lifter will just unscrew from each other with about a 3/4 turn. While in there regreasing, check the seal that's on the collar for any tears and replace if needed.

[2strokeTrush]

Alright guys, I know its been awhile, with school finals and really starting to get into the full time job scene I have been a little delayed.  Well the good news is that I finally got the new clutch cable, and ball bearing.  The bad news is that it didn't fix it!  Actually worse, now even with the clutch pulled in the bike moves under power.  Thinking maybe I have adjusted the cable incorrectly or something.  Either way I was forced to bring the bike under its own power back to my garage, Its about 2 miles, and the bike wouldn't get into 3rd gear no matter what I did.  The engine runs and sounds so good this really disappoints me!....So what could I be looking at here?  All new clutch replacement?  Can a transmission be replaced??  Tomorrow Im off and i will post a link to a video so you can see and hear the bike.  Not feeling to great about all this, I really wanted to be riding her this summer

[calj737]

Sounds like your clutch is improperly adjusted. Start with the clutch adjusted on the side cover, then work to the cable. Properly set up, the cable disengages the clutch and you still have free play in the lever before disengagement begins.

Search "clutch adjustment" for proper technique as it can be tricky to do the first time.

[Stev-o]

Sounds like your clutch is improperly adjusted. Start with the clutch adjusted on the side cover, then work to the cable. Properly set up, the cable disengages the clutch and you still have free play in the lever before disengagement begins.

Search "clutch adjustment" for proper technique as it can be tricky to do the first time.

+1. Adjust clutch.  But search CB500 as the adjustment it just a little differant than the other CB's. I just did it on mine, pretty simple. 

Mine is pretty much done and I've been test riding it the last couple days...

[grcamna2]

Stev-o, Don't you mean 'Joy Riding' it    That's a Nice bike 

[Stev-o]

Stev-o, Don't you mean 'Joy Riding' it    That's a Nice bike 

No issues, so yes you are correct!  Wish the rain would stop and the roads dry up so I can go for a joyride...

[grcamna2]

We're presently having a 'perfect weather' Memorial Day weekend,we've had SO Much precips. these past Winter/Spring months. I hope yours drys a little soon.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Sounds like your clutch is improperly adjusted. Start with the clutch adjusted on the side cover, then work to the cable. Properly set up, the cable disengages the clutch and you still have free play in the lever before disengagement begins.

Search "clutch adjustment" for proper technique as it can be tricky to do the first time.

+1. Adjust clutch.  But search CB500 as the adjustment it just a little differant than the other CB's. I just did it on mine, pretty simple. 

Mine is pretty much done and I've been test riding it the last couple days...

  Stev-o.  The Patina Bike is looking superb!