Topic: A few questions-fork oil,headlights,ignition switch,etc

[crusierlover]

I am slowly working on my 79 650z.I am pretty sure my battery is bad.It has sat for who knows how long.However, I was just checking things out.With the battery in, even though its not a great battery the headlight should at least come on.The switch feels weird,like the insides of the ign switch are kinda loose.Perhaps internal contacts are not good enough to provide a complete circuit for some lights.But, the headlight is an old sealed beam unit.I am kind of doing a resto mod on this bike.I want it to look pretty  original, but a more modern headlight with replaceable bulbs might be better.I know many connectors are inside the headlight bucket.Only one plugs into the headlight.Shining a flashlight into it it does not appear a filament is broken.Are these old sealed beams available.It looks to be the size as some in automotive uses.

My manual I just got is superior to the online manual I found here in my opinion.But it does say use transmission fluid in the forks.Are you guys using fork oil? What weight.

I want to replace the fork springs.The bike does not have many miles, 17,000,but it sat for 12 years.Plus the original springs are junk anyway.I have read about goldvalve emulators. Are they made for these old forks, and is there any benefit to them.I am just learning about these old bikes.I am enjoying it more than usual because I have a daily rider.So I am not frustrated as many here are when they go for a ride and their bike messes up somehow.I learned by dealing with suzuki gs and kz 1000 that old bikes are always coming up with new problems.That is why a 55 chevy is fitted with a new small block and not a babbit rod straight 6 when its rebuilt.My same principle i am using here.

[seanbarney41]

Best easiest headlight upgrade is an h4 conversion lens available from one of several quality lighting manufacturers.

ATF works fine in the forks but fork oil is available in higher viscosities to help firm up mushy old suspension.  I would suggest 10-15w depending on your body weight and how firm you like things.

Race Tech suspension components are top notch and I would be surprised if they didn't have the 650 covered.  I just put RT springs and valve emulators in my GL1000 forks on a cb750 and the result is the best handling cb750 I have ever owned.  (out of something like 13 cb750s )

[crusierlover]

Best easiest headlight upgrade is an h4 conversion lens available from one of several quality lighting manufacturers.

ATF works fine in the forks but fork oil is available in higher viscosities to help firm up mushy old suspension.  I would suggest 10-15w depending on your body weight and how firm you like things.

Race Tech suspension components are top notch and I would be surprised if they didn't have the 650 covered.  I just put RT springs and valve emulators in my GL1000 forks on a cb750 and the result is the best handling cb750 I have ever owned.  (out of something like 13 cb750s )

Awesome information.Thanks a bunch.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Best easiest headlight upgrade is an h4 conversion lens available from one of several quality lighting manufacturers.

ATF works fine in the forks but fork oil is available in higher viscosities to help firm up mushy old suspension.  I would suggest 10-15w depending on your body weight and how firm you like things.

Race Tech suspension components are top notch and I would be surprised if they didn't have the 650 covered.  I just put RT springs and valve emulators in my GL1000 forks on a cb750 and the result is the best handling cb750 I have ever owned.  (out of something like 13 cb750s )

Race-Tech makes parts for the 650.

[rb550four]

  One should  never bother trying to use a battery that is dead, especially if it has been dead for years. get a new battery.
Every contact on that machine , in the bucket , in the lights, grounds and positive terminals to the solenoid and starter should be cleaned as well. It won't take that long to do...an afternoon...and can solve so many possible issues,don't forget to lube the buttons on the bars too .
  These are things that shouldn't be ignored...especially if it's already apart. Any part that has not been checked out and cleaned Is gonna be a problem, and you never want to be pushing it home thinking that you should have....

[crusierlover]

  One should  never bother trying to use a battery that is dead, especially if it has been dead for years. get a new battery.
Every contact on that machine , in the bucket , in the lights, grounds and positive terminals to the solenoid and starter should be cleaned as well. It won't take that long to do...an afternoon...and can solve so many possible issues,don't forget to lube the buttons on the bars too .
  These are things that shouldn't be ignored...especially if it's already apart. Any part that has not been checked out and cleaned Is gonna be a problem, and you never want to be pushing it home thinking that you should have....

All good points.I am going to do that.Actually this saturday Lord willing and the creek don't rise I am going to do the following:
1.Get a new battery
2.Install the seat, takes very little time
3.My front brakes are locked up and the back.Even with the caliper taken off the front disc the brake lever will not move.I have a front caliper,lever, master cylinder, and brake line, and pads I bought off ebay,plus a mightyvac.I dont know which dot # to use, the manual says #3, but that was in 1979.I expect that to make the front brake work.
4.Then I am going to remove the back tire and wheel, see if the drum is frozen up inside.I have two more rear wheels and tires, one of which has working brakes.I do not know if the rear brake is stuck if that could make the motor not turn over.I disconnected the brake rod to the rear brake thinking that would free it up.Once i get both wheels and brakes free, then I will know if they are part of the problem.I will roll the bike in my driveway first to see if it rolls easily.That could take me all day.If not, then I was going to systematically remove 1 at a time each connector under the seat, in the battery and fuse areas and clean and dielectric grease the contact points.These simple things as you said make a world of difference.I found that out when dealing with a 1980 gs1000.