Topic: Powdercoat Finishes $?

[thelowmax]

Three questions...

So, I want to finish my frame. I have gotten several (4) bids for powdercoating ranging from $600 to $1000+. This seems outrageous to me. Is that the norm?

They say there's a lot of prep involved, and that's why it's so expensive. I'm a painter who specializes in historical restorations, so I know prep and I'm not seeing THAT much. What do they do to "prep" it?

Now, I'm stripping the frame and polishing it to a near mirror finish (chroming it, at $1200-2000, is out) but I still need to topcoat it. Anybody know where I can get a good powdercoat for less than what I paid for my bike? I'm in Boston.

[Mo]

Got quoted for just the frame at $150 including blasting and gloss black here in MI.

[calj737]

Typically they sandblast and check for rust, etc. Since you've done all the prep, the cost should be much lower. If you're willing to ship the frame, I'm sure there are many places much less expensive. There's a member here, Powderman, that is quite good but I believe he's in TN.

[edwardmorris]

+1 for Powderman. And if you don't want to ship it to him, PM him anyway and he'll help you find the best one in your area. He helped me track down the two best in my vicinity. I got the frame and everything that attaches to it for under $400.

[Vinhead1957]

I got my frame powdercoated for $125
Bradford Ma.  25 miles north of Boston

[thelowmax]

I got my frame powdercoated for $125
Bradford Ma.  25 miles north of Boston

Now we're talking! $125 seems more realistic. Can you give me some contact info? I really appreciate it.

[thelowmax]

Though I would like to talk to Powderman. 

[754]

Wonder where he has been of late...hope all is well..

[martin99]

Just curious - as you are a specialist painter, why go with powdercoat? I know it's a big debate you might not want to get into, but with your skills why trust it to someone else?

I have two bikes on the road, both used regularly. One is powdercoated, the other is 2K. I don't really have a preference either way, both finishes are holding up well after six or seven years.

[Vinhead1957]

I got my frame powdercoated for $125
Bradford Ma.  25 miles north of Boston

Now we're talking! $125 seems more realistic. Can you give me some contact info? I really appreciate it.

Bradford Finishing and powder coating

2 south st Bradford MA

978 469 9965

It is a little tricky to find but well worth it

[RobbyD]

Wow that's insanley high.  I am in a different state but I couldn't imagine prices being that far off

I had my frame, swing arm, top triple and brake caliper done for 300  in candy blue by a local guy. 

[albertaboy]

Wow, $125.??    Be happy you are not up here.... 

I paid $550 for the frame and parts like swing arm, all brackets, triple tree, both stands, brake arm, chain guard- all needed to be sandblasted. This was a cash deal as long as I didn't ask for a receipt.

[calj737]

Wow, $125.??    Be happy you are not up here.... 

I paid $550 for the frame and parts like swing arm, all brackets, triple tree, both stands, brake arm, chain guard- all needed to be sandblasted. This was a cash deal as long as I didn't ask for a receipt.

And that's pretty reasonable, AB. I pay comparable rates for my work but the quality is very, very high.

[Stev-o]

Wonder where he has been of late...hope all is well..

He's around, I'm shipping him some RD350 parts soon.

[thelowmax]

I got my frame powdercoated for $125
Bradford Ma.  25 miles north of Boston

Thanks a lot.

Just curious - as you are a specialist painter, why go with powdercoat? I know it's a big debate you might not want to get into, but with your skills why trust it to someone else?

I have two bikes on the road, both used regularly. One is powdercoated, the other is 2K. I don't really have a preference either way, both finishes are holding up well after six or seven years.

I would powder coat it myself but the frame is too big for any oven I might have to use. I prefer to powder coat it because, I have used spray paints (though not K2. I'll have to check it out) , but have found that clear, on raw metal, still has a tendency to rust. I don't understand why but it's happened several times to me.

Now we're talking! $125 seems more realistic. Can you give me some contact info? I really appreciate it.

Bradford Finishing and powder coating

2 south st Bradford MA

978 469 9965

It is a little tricky to find but well worth it

And just for the record... The company rep  I spoke to about chroming my frame told me that of the $1200-$2000 estimate, 2/3 of that or more is prep. With my frame stripped and polished, the chroming would be around $500. That's pretty good considering the cost compared to powder coating. However, after much thought, I think chrome would be a hassle in the long run, and polishing is cooler anyway. Top coat it is!! Thanks guys!

[754]

A riding buddy back in the late 70,s nickle plated his  750 frame.. Like his Champion dirt track frame.
 Chrome has higher buildup, and sometimes embrittlement issues.
 Nickle looks a bit mellower, but gets a bit tarnished at times..on a trip to LA he was polishing it often.
 

[nicks2319]

Just paid $250 for sandblasting and powdercoating for a cb500 frame in Youngstown, OH.

[Vinhead1957]

That price was for a prepared frame and swing arm stripped and clean

[chewbacca5000]

Powdercoaters do no discount for stripping as they always reblast anyhow.  Some might give a partial discount.  Frames run around $275 blast and coat and swing arm is $75 to $100 blast and coat.  Swing arms are more as they are heavier chunks of steel and take much longer.  Bearings need to be out as the oil turns into a vapor and ruins the finish and makes mess in oven.

At $125 dude probably throws it into a 700 degree burn off oven.  Some say that is not so good for the metal.

I'd say around $350 is a reasonable price.  $125 or $600 is not.

[Garage_guy_chris]

I have talked to some shops up here in the great white north and if you want, black or white or some other "common generic color" they will often do it cheaper then doing some custom color where they have to order a specialty powder for your 1 time job....

Overall i have decided to just go with 2K paint on mine, i did 2k (PPG MTK) on my 71 CB450 and its been on the road for 4 years and it still looks good as new.

My biggest logic is if i ever need to do a repair of any kind the paint is much easier to deal with then powder.

But Im also a cheap a$$ and like to do my own work as i dont tend to trust other people with my stuff.

[Sandy]

Howdy all:

I would recommend www.tomscyclerecycling.com which is very near your home.  He has done black and silver on my 1100F and the upper triple tree top from my 1969 SOHC and his price and his work is above excellent.  I recommend him highly.  Go try his website.

[thelowmax]

I have talked to some shops up here in the great white north and if you want, black or white or some other "common generic color" they will often do it cheaper then doing some custom color where they have to order a specialty powder for your 1 time job....

Overall i have decided to just go with 2K paint on mine, i did 2k (PPG MTK) on my 71 CB450 and its been on the road for 4 years and it still looks good as new.

My biggest logic is if i ever need to do a repair of any kind the paint is much easier to deal with then powder.

But Im also a cheap a$$ and like to do my own work as i dont tend to trust other people with my stuff.

I'm actually thinking the same as you. Chrome is out. After seeing a pipe with a ding at the bend that had become crusty and rusty, I thought about not only the look of the finish but the ability to repair it if compromised. And with all the variables of powder coating, from prep to cost, I am leaning toward the 2k as well. I think I feel better about painting it myself and possibly messing it up, than paying for anything less than perfect. Though with the 2k, the cost and repercussions will be minimal. You see, I too am a cheap a$$ and am proud of it. Expensive doesn't always mean the best for me and my MO.

That's it. I have made my decision. Mirror polished frame with 2k clear coat.

Thanks for the help everybody. I'll post pics as I go.

[thelowmax]

So, one more thing... I have discovered a powder coating shop recently opened right near me. They do nice work, with a lot of variety, and a reasonable price, $75 an hour. Unfortunately, they informed me of something I had some suspicions about but never asked. They say that, even though the metal is mirror polished, the process (electricity,powder,heat?), will discolor the metal and give it a darker patina. Anybody ever clear powder coat bare metal?

[calj737]

They should not meet to heat your frame any higher than 400 degrees. At that heat, your frame should not discolor. Stainless, yes, it will turn a light "gold" tint with heating during the powder coat or ceramic coating process. But your frame is a different metal altogether and if they are not an industrial coater, than they should be able to limit their ovens to a much lower temp.

If you're overly concerned, try a test piece like your side stand or center stand. They're slightly different metals, but the effects to them should be similar to your frame.

[tomk1960]

Howdy all:

I would recommend www.tomscyclerecycling.com which is very near your home.  He has done black and silver on my 1100F and the upper triple tree top from my 1969 SOHC and his price and his work is above excellent.  I recommend him highly.  Go try his website.

Thanks so much for such a great recommendation.  Unfortunately, frames are the one thing I don't do.  My blast cabinet and oven aren't quite big enough to accomodate a full frame, but I sent a PM to the OP for a shop in the area that does great work on MC frames.

Regarding price - $600-$1000 is outrageous, especially since a lot of the prep work will be done in this particular case.  On the other hand, anyone charging $125 to blast and PC isn't making much money.  It takes a good blaster 1-2 hours just to blast a frame.  Then it has to be washed and outgassed before zinc primer, color coat, and clear coat.  Most old frames have some rust, so even after blasting, a coat of zinc primer is highly recommended.  The clearcoat isn't a must, but it adds a nice depth to the color.

A good shop that does the job right (blasting included) will get at least $250 and upwards of $400.  Some will probably do the swingarm and center stand as well.  I'm not saying that the guys paying $125 got a bad job, but being a powder coater myself, I can't imagine taking the time to do a job like that properly for such a low price.  It really is a LOT of work.

Tom

[thelowmax]

Howdy all:

I would recommend www.tomscyclerecycling.com which is very near your home.  He has done black and silver on my 1100F and the upper triple tree top from my 1969 SOHC and his price and his work is above excellent.  I recommend him highly.  Go try his website.

Thanks so much for such a great recommendation.  Unfortunately, frames are the one thing I don't do.  My blast cabinet and oven aren't quite big enough to accomodate a full frame, but I sent a PM to the OP for a shop in the area that does great work on MC frames.

Regarding price - $600-$1000 is outrageous, especially since a lot of the prep work will be done in this particular case.  On the other hand, anyone charging $125 to blast and PC isn't making much money.  It takes a good blaster 1-2 hours just to blast a frame.  Then it has to be washed and outgassed before zinc primer, color coat, and clear coat.  Most old frames have some rust, so even after blasting, a coat of zinc primer is highly recommended.  The clearcoat isn't a must, but it adds a nice depth to the color.

A good shop that does the job right (blasting included) will get at least $250 and upwards of $400.  Some will probably do the swingarm and center stand as well.  I'm not saying that the guys paying $125 got a bad job, but being a powder coater myself, I can't imagine taking the time to do a job like that properly for such a low price.  It really is a LOT of work.

Tom

Hi Tom, Thanks for the info. I actually found a place right near me ($75 per hour) but that's where I was informed about the discoloration due to the process. Any thoughts? I don't want to put a faux chrome and topcoat on it as that defeats  the bare metal concept. Unless I'm guaranteed the finish I want, I think I may be better off just can spraying the frame with 2k or something.

[Powderman]

Here I am. The shops doing the basic colors are probably production shops who run a conveyor line and your part gets hung on the line and run through with a gazillion other widgets being coated. These places do not and will not take the added time to properly prep a custom piece for your bike.
I always cringe when the posters say to go with paint over powder because it's easier to fix. While this is correct why would you use a product that you know has a defect going in, lack of durability. The chances of powder chipping if done correctly is greatly reduced over a good paint job so the need to fix is almost completely eliminated. Paint a piece of aluminum foil and powder coat a piece. Wad them up a number of times and see which you would rather have on your parts.
Depending on the frame I start at $150 and go up to around $250 for frame alone. Swing arms, sub frame, etc. are all separate pieces and get priced accordingly.
I'm surprised there were actually 4 places in your area wanting to rip you off so badly. I worked for a place that restored CBX's and while I gave him a deal because he did so many restorations a month we still were coming in around $500 for everything that was black on the bike.
You didn't mention if your frame is steel or aluminum. Steel will flash rust with in minutes if there is any moisture in the air. In your prep you will have to be sure all of the polishing compound has been cleaned off or it will wreak havoc on the finish in the oven.

[thelowmax]

Here I am. The shops doing the basic colors are probably production shops who run a conveyor line and your part gets hung on the line and run through with a gazillion other widgets being coated. These places do not and will not take the added time to properly prep a custom piece for your bike.
I always cringe when the posters say to go with paint over powder because it's easier to fix. While this is correct why would you use a product that you know has a defect going in, lack of durability. The chances of powder chipping if done correctly is greatly reduced over a good paint job so the need to fix is almost completely eliminated. Paint a piece of aluminum foil and powder coat a piece. Wad them up a number of times and see which you would rather have on your parts.
Depending on the frame I start at $150 and go up to around $250 for frame alone. Swing arms, sub frame, etc. are all separate pieces and get priced accordingly.
I'm surprised there were actually 4 places in your area wanting to rip you off so badly. I worked for a place that restored CBX's and while I gave him a deal because he did so many restorations a month we still were coming in around $500 for everything that was black on the bike.
You didn't mention if your frame is steel or aluminum. Steel will flash rust with in minutes if there is any moisture in the air. In your prep you will have to be sure all of the polishing compound has been cleaned off or it will wreak havoc on the finish in the oven.

Hey Powderman! Thanks for chiming in. As I said, there's a place around the corner that just opened that does a lot of one off pieces. Young guys that do a lot of bicycles and wheels rims and such. I like the fact that they plainly state $75 an hour for all work, and were the first to tell me about the challenges I may have bare metal powdercoating with just clear.  http://www.pikepowdercoating.com/

 Also, I have heard, everything from weld points to wall thicknesses effects the color of the metal, so, not only will it be darker but also uneven?

Given your expertise, what would be your recommendation for getting a clear coat (of, whatever) on a high gloss polished bare metal (steel) without changing the color?

I certainly appreciate your input.

[Powderman]

Here I am. The shops doing the basic colors are probably production shops who run a conveyor line and your part gets hung on the line and run through with a gazillion other widgets being coated. These places do not and will not take the added time to properly prep a custom piece for your bike.
I always cringe when the posters say to go with paint over powder because it's easier to fix. While this is correct why would you use a product that you know has a defect going in, lack of durability. The chances of powder chipping if done correctly is greatly reduced over a good paint job so the need to fix is almost completely eliminated. Paint a piece of aluminum foil and powder coat a piece. Wad them up a number of times and see which you would rather have on your parts.
Depending on the frame I start at $150 and go up to around $250 for frame alone. Swing arms, sub frame, etc. are all separate pieces and get priced accordingly.
I'm surprised there were actually 4 places in your area wanting to rip you off so badly. I worked for a place that restored CBX's and while I gave him a deal because he did so many restorations a month we still were coming in around $500 for everything that was black on the bike.
You didn't mention if your frame is steel or aluminum. Steel will flash rust with in minutes if there is any moisture in the air. In your prep you will have to be sure all of the polishing compound has been cleaned off or it will wreak havoc on the finish in the oven.

Hey Powderman! Thanks for chiming in. As I said, there's a place around the corner that just opened that does a lot of one off pieces. Young guys that do a lot of bicycles and wheels rims and such. I like the fact that they plainly state $75 an hour for all work, and were the first to tell me about the challenges I may have bare metal powdercoating with just clear.  http://www.pikepowdercoating.com/

 Also, I have heard, everything from weld points to wall thicknesses effects the color of the metal, so, not only will it be darker but also uneven?

Given your expertise, what would be your recommendation for getting a clear coat (of, whatever) on a high gloss polished bare metal (steel) without changing the color?

I certainly appreciate your input.

If you're concerned about the metal turning try using a lower cure temp clear, there are some that cure at 325*-345*. You're going to lose 15-20% of the gloss when you clear coat the bare metal.

[lrutt]

didn't read the whole thread, but have to ask...if you do 'historical' restos then why would you PC your bike?

Just paint the damn thing with enamel for $30 and be done with it. I've got enamel frames that were just rattle canned 20 years ago that still look great.

[thelowmax]

didn't read the whole thread, but have to ask...if you do 'historical' restos then why would you PC your bike?

Just paint the damn thing with enamel for $30 and be done with it. I've got enamel frames that were just rattle canned 20 years ago that still look great.

Yes. Somebody already posed that question. I just know a powder coat looks and lasts longer. I would do it myself,  but I don't have an oven big enough. That's all. But after reviewing all the info, regarding color, sheen (the biggest issues), cost, etc., more than likely, I'll just do it myself for cheap.