Topic: New Bike - Running Rough

[Tews19]

No bud

[bmx4637]

Are you able to see the pics from my prior posts on page 1?

[Tews19]

Yes I can see on page 1.

[bmx4637]

Ok the url's for the images work and it's coded the same as the previous page's images. It shows on my comp and phone. I'm thinking it may be information overload since it is 21 images. I will repost it in 3 posts to give it a try.

[bmx4637]

Posted by: calj737
To accurately determine cylinder wear, lobe wear, spring fatigue etc you need accurate measuring tools. You cannot "eyeball" these measurements.

Right...

Posted by: bmx4637
It can very well be that my valve springs are unable to provide a proper seal (Which I will measure once removed)...Thanks Tews, yea it (camshaft) definitely does look worn. I will probably need a micrometer to determine if it is out of limits or not.

My previous visual inspection was to look at wear patterns, which the manual says to look for.
I've seen that worn camshafts tend to cause backfire and low compression, however I haven't experienced those symptoms with this bike. Only afterfire and no compression.

As for the leakage at the exhaust, that could easily be down to bad gaskets.

I believe it would have to leak past the valve first then past the exhaust gasket though. If leaking past the head gasket then I would feel/hear the air coming out of the head/block interface instead of the tail pipe.







But I went ahead and moved forward anyway, Removed the exhaust manifold and carb assembly which actually wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. It appears that the previous owner had put a white grease on the rubber seals to facilitate removal/installation.

         



Question:

         
Carb assy removed from bike

         
Carb assy from parts bike. Anyone knows what that little manifold at the top is?

[bmx4637]

This was the compression tester I used, middle one fits the threads on the bike. Since it's a 2piece system it works very well for leak testing when connecting an air line to the fitting. I have videos of the leak down test with the carb assy and exhaust manifold removed to see a few things better before removing the head. Just haven't uploaded them yet.


         
Image of #4 cylinder intake port.                                                                         Image of #4 cylinder exhaust port.     Camshaft is removed so valves are supposed to be shut.



Out of focus Image of #3 cylinder intake port.


         
Image of #2 cylinder exhaust port.                                                                         Image of #1 cylinder exhaust port. Closed the way it's supposed to be.

[bmx4637]

         
Cylinder head bolt pattern.                                                                                                                        Cylinder head removal procedures.


         
3" extension 3/8"drive. Very useful for #'s 1-4 bolts because of the center frame. I didn't want to use a 1/2" drive and put too much force without knowing it and break some bolts. Luckily they all came out no problem with some elbow grease.





Bolt position #3, I had to install the extension first then connect the ratchet because the frame wouldn't let it all fit together.


                             
Just make sure that socket/extension doesn't fall into the chain cavity!! *cough*                   Magnet also helps remove the bolts/washers. My #11 bolt actually had 2 washers on it 




         
Cylinder head bolts removed.


Now I am trying to remove the cylinder head only and not the cylinder block. However the entire assembly is loose and I've tapped a ton with my rubber hammer, tried cylinder compression to remove (as noted in manual) and the block keeps trying to come off, but I don't want to remove the block. I want to remove only the head. I don't want to score or pry open the head/block interface and cause out of round/local warp that will make me need to deck the head.

Any tips?

Thanks guys,
Alex

[bmx4637]

I will try the rope in the cylinder idea, but I think it will just move the entire block up anyway, similar to adding compression in the cylinder. Is there any way to hold the block down and pull/push on the head?

Thanks,
-Alex