Author Topic: stan's 1977 CB750K (Read 5651 times)

stan. · « **Reply #25 on:** January 30, 2016, 10:08:16 AM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on January 29, 2016, 06:17:36 PM

the coils are good now?

yep!

stan. · « **Reply #26 on:** January 30, 2016, 10:09:35 AM »

found someone selling a drum / spoke rear wheel for $20 so I think I'm going to try and snag that tomorrow. it's got some surface rust but for $20 who cares

stan. · « **Reply #27 on:** January 30, 2016, 03:44:21 PM »

exhaust installed, carburetors installed and hooked up!

grcamna2 · « **Reply #28 on:** January 30, 2016, 05:33:42 PM »

I like your helper there

stan. · « **Reply #29 on:** February 02, 2016, 02:47:29 AM »

today is a big day! picked up some fuel line, oil, and made an auxiliary fuel bottle from a soda bottle and a brass fitting. jumped the coils up to the points and the battery in order to have ignition, albeit running total loss. still waiting on my OMP connectors shipment so the construction of a new harness can begin.

succeeded in starting the engine up! here's a video of the first start

it's a little rough and loud as the carbs were open, the 4-1 header is open, and i was winding the engine out to get it started up. after the video i adjusted the idle screw and warmed the bike up a little, it idles!

next order of business: a muffler. that open header is LOUD

stan. · « **Reply #30 on:** February 02, 2016, 02:04:46 PM »

checked the OD of the header's outlet and it's ~2.56". rang up cone engineering (they're local to me) and asked, their 2.5" is not loose enough tolerance'd to fit onto my bike

not sure how to proceed from here.

found all the parts of my stock airbox, but the boots are pretty junky so i was able to place them on just barely. going to need to track down a filter, and debating whether to buy nice soft new boots.

OMP connectors arrived, will pay a visit to the electronics yard to get wiring and start cracking on the harness build.

i bought a replacement petcock but can't find it anywhere right now. probably will clean house before spending money on another one.

clutch still seems grabby, might disassemble to take a look at the innards.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 02, 2016, 02:57:55 PM »

I think there's a way to make that 2.5" Cone muffler to fit

stan. · « **Reply #32 on:** February 02, 2016, 03:35:12 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on February 02, 2016, 02:57:55 PM

I think there's a way to make that 2.5" Cone muffler to fit

i could cut slits to allow it to fit, but i'm nervous about getting a good seal as the slip section terminates into a weld pretty close by.

mycoal · « **Reply #33 on:** February 02, 2016, 03:41:34 PM »

Question for you guys. Why would a drum brake be superior to his rear disc brake?

Also, if that rear disc brake + caliper is for sale I might be interested.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #34 on:** February 02, 2016, 03:44:53 PM »

Quote from: mycoal on February 02, 2016, 03:41:34 PM

Question for you guys. Why would a drum brake be superior to his rear disc brake?

Also, if that rear disc brake + caliper is for sale I might be interested.

It's not superior in terms of performance. The disc will offer better braking when serviced/rebuilt. He does not want to fabricate a mount for the brake stabilizer on the swingarm. His swingarm is set up for a drum and has a different attachment point.

stan. · « **Reply #35 on:** February 02, 2016, 03:45:04 PM »

Quote from: mycoal on February 02, 2016, 03:41:34 PM

Also, if that rear disc brake + caliper is for sale I might be interested.

it isn't listed, but i do wish to sell it. shoot me a pm.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 02, 2016, 03:45:32 PM »

Quote from: mycoal on February 02, 2016, 03:41:34 PM

Question for you guys. Why would a drum brake be superior to his rear disc brake?

Also, if that rear disc brake + caliper is for sale I might be interested.

The drum brake is good for riding in wet weather because it's sealed and the 'feel' is consistent;I don't like using rear brakes very much,more of a front brake person.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2016, 03:51:44 PM »

The stock rear drum brake is sufficient for everyday use. Drum brakes can be more prone to lock-up and offer less braking power than most comparable year discs. Disc rotors (at least modern one) offer better feel and modulation before locking up. A twin or quad leading shoe brake, however, will outperform the 750SS brake disc.

As grcamna2 stated, most of your braking is biased toward the front disc.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 02, 2016, 03:56:24 PM »

Quote from: mycoal on February 02, 2016, 03:41:34 PM

Question for you guys. Why would a drum brake be superior to his rear disc brake?

an overly powerful rear break can be dangerous when the slightest toe tap results in wheel lockup. As you probably realize, most are much better at modulating braking force with their hands than their feet, so in a panic situation this can be even worse...added to the fact that in braking weight transfers to the front forks so that front has wayyy more traction than rear. So, most agree that F0/1 caliper is too powerful but K model drum has less power but is especially unpredictable to modulate, quickly going from no braking force to wheel locked. I feel like it is a tossup, both rear brakes kinda suck...

grcamna2 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 02, 2016, 04:05:01 PM »

stan,in a panic stop I'd get my mind to think 'All I have are the front brakes

' ! and then remember to only use 'one toe' on the rear brake pedal.

stan. · « **Reply #40 on:** February 02, 2016, 04:30:13 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on February 02, 2016, 04:05:01 PM

stan,in a panic stop I'd get my mind to think 'All I have are the front brakes ' ! and then remember to only use 'one toe' on the rear brake pedal.

yep, all my past bikes have been much more modern (ie 2004 ZX-6R) and even then, back brake is more there for moral support to me. or holding the bike in place while sitting at a light

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #41 on:** February 02, 2016, 04:51:08 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on February 02, 2016, 03:56:24 PM

Quote from: mycoal on February 02, 2016, 03:41:34 PM
Question for you guys. Why would a drum brake be superior to his rear disc brake?
an overly powerful rear break can be dangerous when the slightest toe tap results in wheel lockup. As you probably realize, most are much better at modulating braking force with their hands than their feet, so in a panic situation this can be even worse...added to the fact that in braking weight transfers to the front forks so that front has wayyy more traction than rear. So, most agree that F0/1 caliper is too powerful but K model drum has less power but is especially unpredictable to modulate, quickly going from no braking force to wheel locked. I feel like it is a tossup, both rear brakes kinda suck...

Well put, SB -- especially the last sentence.

calj737 · « **Reply #42 on:** February 03, 2016, 05:05:46 AM »

Quote from: stan. on February 02, 2016, 03:35:12 PM

i could cut slits to allow it to fit, but i'm nervous about getting a good seal as the slip section terminates into a weld pretty close by.

Cut the slits in the collector and "squish" it to slip into the Cone muffler. Then, the overlap provided by the muffler provides all the seal you need. Heck, for that matter, cut some slits out of the header, then weld it back. The material removed can be more than enough to "shrink" the OD and allow a perfect slip fit.

stan. · « **Reply #43 on:** February 07, 2016, 03:39:45 AM »

picked up a filter for the stock airbox today, started rust treatment on the tank, got replacement rear tank rubber, and got front brake bled and functional.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #44 on:** February 07, 2016, 07:44:26 AM »

How's the tank doing ?

stan. · « **Reply #45 on:** February 07, 2016, 01:09:59 PM »

tons of rust came out. this time i did a gallon of sulfuric acid drain opener straight into the tank, followed by enough water to fill the tank up. let it sit for ~15 hours. dumped out, rinsed over and over until water ran clear (took a while). this is after my previous treatments a few months back - the works toilet bowl cleaner followed by reverse electrolysis. the tank was heavily heavily rusted when i got it originally.

at this point i feel like i might be good to go as long as i use an inline filter between the petcock and the carbs. photos give a pretty good idea of the current state, mostly good clean bare metal but a few stubborn archipelagos of rust on the sides. not sure if it's necessary to try to bother getting those out. open to discussion of the merits of continued rust removal efforts or calling this good and running an inline filter.

toytuff · « **Reply #46 on:** February 07, 2016, 01:23:14 PM »

I have several handle bars for that model. One K and two F models which were a little flatter. F model bars are in good nick. K model should clean up nice.

I believe your in Arizona correct? Ill look for a picture if interested.

tt

stan. · « **Reply #47 on:** February 07, 2016, 02:09:10 PM »

Quote from: toytuff on February 07, 2016, 01:23:14 PM

I have several handle bars for that model. One K and two F models which were a little flatter. F model bars are in good nick. K model should clean up nice.

I believe your in Arizona correct? Ill look for a picture if interested.

tt

what are you talking about?

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Author Topic: stan's 1977 CB750K (Read 5651 times)