Topic: Cam chain tensioner replacement

[theslayedsaint]

So I guess I'm replacing my tensioner now.... So I was wondering if anyone has reused a mls head gasket before or do I have to get a new one?(only has about 200 miles on it) and in the same question do I have to pull the jugs to remove the tensioner can't remember if there is away to pull it out with out. And is there anything else that has to be replaced on opening case if there is no miles on the bike?
Can't believe I have to open this thing up again!!

[Flyin900]

I would never reuse a head gasket on a motor that has run and heat cycled, or you could be doing the job a third time. Even the base gasket for the jugs once the pressure is released off the studs and head removed could end up with an oil seep from no longer sealing 100 %.
Once your into it that far IMO personally for a little more cash for new gaskets and some extra work you have done the job right.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

I vote that you can reuse the MLS gasket. Jugs gotta come off.

[drumstyx]

What's the preferred replacement for this now? Are OEM parts still available? Just looked it up and at least for my '78 most bits are available...just the bearing pin and collar are not. Neat.

[Retro Rocket]

I've heard you can, found this online..

Q: Can I reuse an MLS gasket?
A: Here is our take on this. If the engine hasn't been run very long (less than a few hundred miles or less than a few hours) an MLS gasket can almost surely be re-used if you have to remove the head.

We go by that guide and haven't had problems. Some people get away with a longer period, but due to the fact everyone has a different project and variance in between, there is no standard suggestion.

One thing we can say, is that if the "black coating" layer on the top and bottom of the gasket has come off in any way during removal, it should be discarded and replaced.

[theslayedsaint]

Thanks guys.... Can't decide what to do right now about the gasket there not cheap. Anyone got any good tips on re installing Pistons into jugs I had one hell of a time last time getting everything in. As for parts I'll be ordering OME parts for sure after all this recall crap happened.

[ekpent]

Two pistons at a time with a board supporting the first two and some band clamps loosely tightened to hold the piston rings in and in place.

[Wingnut74]

I just installed and then dug out the brand new offending tensioner and replaced it with OEM and based on a tip from MRieck - you don't need to pull the cylinders up the whole way and redo the ring compression job that took me forever because I am a chicken Newb. Look for my post buried in that monster first thread - I took precautions to avoid disaster and it was pretty easy. Only bummer was that I had just sealed up an $85 OEM head gasket and when i removed it two weeks later there were about 4 little spots the size of a pencil diameter at the largest and the thickness of paper where the thin first paper layer stuck to the cylinder top. They were not near the edges and I my plan was to re--use it with multiple layers of coppergasket layered in to replace the little divots. And then just to be safe I resprayed coppergasket on both sides of the OEM gasket. In the end I said screw it and bought another NOS one and the original OEM copper sprayed one is hanging from a wire in my basement - will sell cheap for anyone braver than me.

[theslayedsaint]

Thanks Wingnut74 I'll take a look at the post later. Did you replace anything else cam cover gasket? Or anything else for this job. And yeah your not the only noob that took forever to get the damn Pistons in haha

[Wingnut74]

Yes I did. Did not get as far as valve cover gasket, but when I pulled the valve towers back-off, of course it messed up the Vintage CB750 pucks that I had glued in with Permatex 2 (per Hondaman Book), and my new plan was all OEM/NOS parts especially anything soft and buried, so I redid those.

[theslayedsaint]

Ohh yeah forgot about those damn things! Can't believe I was on day away from ridding and now I'm back to a month or more of work.... Not happy 

[PeWe]

I just installed and then dug out the brand new offending tensioner and replaced it with OEM and based on a tip from MRieck - you don't need to pull the cylinders up the whole way and redo the ring compression job that took me forever because I am a chicken Newb. Look for my post buried in that monster first thread - I took precautions to avoid disaster and it was pretty easy. Only bummer was that I had just sealed up an $85 OEM head gasket and when i removed it two weeks later there were about 4 little spots the size of a pencil diameter at the largest and the thickness of paper where the thin first paper layer stuck to the cylinder top. They were not near the edges and I my plan was to re--use it with multiple layers of coppergasket layered in to replace the little divots. And then just to be safe I resprayed coppergasket on both sides of the OEM gasket. In the end I said screw it and bought another NOS one and the original OEM copper sprayed one is hanging from a wire in my basement - will sell cheap for anyone braver than me.

Copper spray on fiber gasket (Cometic CFM20) was not good combo in my engine (836). Oil leak out as into the cylinders. It has never leaked like that before.
I got it verified by my local tuner that has more than 40 years in the business, fiber gasket seals with the graphite. The gasket before did not leak with no additional sealer.

[Wingnut74]

I just installed and then dug out the brand new offending tensioner and replaced it with OEM and based on a tip from MRieck - you don't need to pull the cylinders up the whole way and redo the ring compression job that took me forever because I am a chicken Newb. Look for my post buried in that monster first thread - I took precautions to avoid disaster and it was pretty easy. Only bummer was that I had just sealed up an $85 OEM head gasket and when i removed it two weeks later there were about 4 little spots the size of a pencil diameter at the largest and the thickness of paper where the thin first paper layer stuck to the cylinder top. They were not near the edges and I my plan was to re--use it with multiple layers of coppergasket layered in to replace the little divots. And then just to be safe I resprayed coppergasket on both sides of the OEM gasket. In the end I said screw it and bought another NOS one and the original OEM copper sprayed one is hanging from a wire in my basement - will sell cheap for anyone braver than me.

Copper spray on fiber gasket (Cometic CFM20) was not good combo in my engine (836). Oil leak out as into the cylinders. It has never leaked like that before.
I got it verified by my local tuner that has more than 40 years in the business, fiber gasket seals with the graphite. The gasket before did not leak with no additional sealer.

Yup. All guidance I read was not to use the copperspray on an OEM gasket because it has its own glue - you can tell its kind of tacky.  It is a little trickier call after you have compressed it once like I did where all the tackiness was gone as though the glue had been squeezed out and then gone once you cleanup the mating surfaces - so my thought was that since it now seemed to be missing the tack factor I would add it back with the spray. And then I chickened out and bought new OEM. Cha-Ching, Cha-Ching, Could have bought a BMW by the time I am done but mine will have way more soul! assuming it runs in a couple weeks.