Topic: CB750 AHRMA Sportsman 750 Racer

[slikwilli420]

Those gears look nice.  Who is your source for the ISF process?  Do they charge by the piece?

Thanks Martin! Pretty happy with how they turned out. Im using a place called ESCO Midwest in Kalamazoo, MI. Its about 10min away so an obvious choice. They are an official RemChem satellite facility. They charge by the load, and my trans parts fit into one load with ease. The load cost is $150 and they only took a few days to turn it around.

[slikwilli420]

I put the trans together yesterday and found that all the bearings slid on with anywhere from slip fit to moderate finger pressure with no need for a press on any of them. There is no detectable wiggle in any of them. Am I ok here? Remember my trans was ISF tumbled and the bearings are all anti friction coated so surfaces are very smooth.

[Rocketman]

You sound good to go to me.  I can’t recall any of the transmissions I have worked on requiring a press fit of bearing to shaft.

[slikwilli420]

You sound good to go to me.  I can’t recall any of the transmissions I have worked on requiring a press fit of bearing to shaft.

Thanks for that Martin. I guess silence from the rest is golden, so I will assume that all is well with the fitment of my bearings on the trans shafts.

[slikwilli420]

I was able to get the cases cleaned up last night and wanted to get main studs installed to get ready to check main bearing clearances. I took some tips from Mike Rieck and installed as follows:
1. Long end in the case - This made sense to me since there is no need for all that thread up top when the nut is thinner than even the shorter threaded end
2. Drop of red loctite and thread into the case with a stud installation tool (highly recommended vs the double nut method)
3. He mentions just a light tweak on them to get good thread engagement, but being as particular as I am, I chose a light torque figure (30 in-lbs) as the torque I would set them at
4. Once installed I added the other case half, some assembly lube on the threads and torqued to 17 ft-lbs and let them set up in that configuration before pulling it back apart

I did notice the center studs had no extra thread sticking out of the nuts while others had some. All shorter threads were within about 1mm of each other regarding installed length.



I have never done this before but it all made sense at the time. All sound good?

[slikwilli420]

Huge day yesterday in the engine assembly lab. Crank bearings checked out at 0.0015-0.002" all the way across, with no taper or weird spots. All the new goodies were double checked, soaked in oil and a generous amount of assembly lube was used on more critical parts. Everything went together flawlessly. I still need to source some OEM clutch plates/springs and then I can assemble the clutch. The only other thing left in the bottom end is the shifter linkage then its ready for the top end. Kenny said piston should be coming early this month!

[Rocketman]

Now that looks nice!  Well done.

[bwaller]

All shiny & new. 

[slikwilli420]

All shiny & new. 

For now! Hopefully change that to dirty and fast before too long.

[gschuld]

Looking great....  I have to say I’m pretty jealous (among other things) of your vapor blasted cases👍

George

[slikwilli420]

Looking great....  I have to say I’m pretty jealous (among other things) of your vapor blasted cases👍

George

Thanks George! They came out really well. I found a local guy who does a very good job for an extremely competitive price. I also don't have to do any prep like blasting or paint, but did do a thorough cleaning after I got them back. Every hole chased, all oil passages blown out with air and generous brake parts cleaner and some bottle brushes until it all came out clean. Well worth the effort as there was no gasket material or goo left anywhere.

[Haybus]

Those cases look beautiful. I really love this phase of bike building, having just gone through it a few weeks ago. Fired right up with no issues a week ago. Unfortunately the season isn't looking so great for us this year, so perhaps I built it for the AHRMA race in Utah only.

http://www.roadracingworld.com/news/wmrra-lose-of-insurance-forces-cancellation-of-round-one-puts-2018-season-in-jeopardy/

Alan

[slikwilli420]

Those cases look beautiful. I really love this phase of bike building, having just gone through it a few weeks ago. Fired right up with no issues a week ago. Unfortunately the season isn't looking so great for us this year, so perhaps I built it for the AHRMA race in Utah only.

http://www.roadracingworld.com/news/wmrra-lose-of-insurance-forces-cancellation-of-round-one-puts-2018-season-in-jeopardy/

Alan

It really is a lot of fun. It will be a mostly new bike so plenty to be excited about.

Your news is devastating. I'm really sorry to see something like this happen to any race org. Fingers crossed they get coverage for the rest of the season.

[gschuld]

Looking great....  I have to say I’m pretty jealous (among other things) of your vapor blasted cases👍

George

Thanks George! They came out really well. I found a local guy who does a very good job for an extremely competitive price. I also don't have to do any prep like blasting or paint, but did do a thorough cleaning after I got them back. Every hole chased, all oil passages blown out with air and generous brake parts cleaner and some bottle brushes until it all came out clean. Well worth the effort as there was no gasket material or goo left anywhere.

So you decided not to paint the cases and left the vapor blasted surface as is?

I wonder how that will oxidize from a vapor blasted surface.  🧐

George

[MRieck]

 Looks great. You could have removed a lot more material from the basket and had it balanced, true for the shift drum too (no balancing required). I have seen real factory race parts ...the basket and drum.....that were so unbelievably swiss cheesed you'd die. All hand work in a lathe /mill with the hand finishing touches. It taught me to know what is possible.

[gschuld]

Looks great. You could have removed a lot more material from the basket and had it balanced, true for the shift drum too (no balancing required). I have seen real factory race parts ...the basket and drum.....that were so unbelievably swiss cheesed you'd die. All hand work in a lathe /mill with the hand finishing touches. It taught me to know what is possible.

I’d like to see a few pictures of those😳

[slikwilli420]

Looks great. You could have removed a lot more material from the basket and had it balanced, true for the shift drum too (no balancing required). I have seen real factory race parts ...the basket and drum.....that were so unbelievably swiss cheesed you'd die. All hand work in a lathe /mill with the hand finishing touches. It taught me to know what is possible.

I’d like to see a few pictures of those😳

Me too! Maybe next year. Always room for improvement.

I'll be leaving the cases as is. Plenty of guys get a lot of years with no issues. Hoping the same goes for me.

[gschuld]

Looks great. You could have removed a lot more material from the basket and had it balanced, true for the shift drum too (no balancing required). I have seen real factory race parts ...the basket and drum.....that were so unbelievably swiss cheesed you'd die. All hand work in a lathe /mill with the hand finishing touches. It taught me to know what is possible.

I’d like to see a few pictures of those😳

Me too! Maybe next year. Always room for improvement.

I'll be leaving the cases as is. Plenty of guys get a lot of years with no issues. Hoping the same goes for me.

Very interesting....🧐

George

[bwaller]

George I even sandblasted my cases years ago for the roughest finish possible. Really no issue with oxidation although it's not like they sit in a damp garage corner untouched either.

Alan that insurance business sucks. Hopefully the  race ass'n can secure coverage elsewhere. Years ago I was involved with ten other fire departments in an insurance smack down. I dislike these companies, it's a perfect example of making money for shareholders.

[754]

The main bearing studs and nuts, anyone had rust problems with them.
 They look like black oxide..

[MRieck]

The main bearing studs and nuts, anyone had rust problems with them.
 They look like black oxide..

If they get wet they will rust Frank....black oxide like you said.

[slikwilli420]

The main bearing studs and nuts, anyone had rust problems with them.
 They look like black oxide..

If they get wet they will rust Frank....black oxide like you said.

I thought about that too and will have to see how they hold up racing. Would be tits to have ARP roll a set of studs and use some thick washers under their 6 or 12 point nuts. They wouldn't rust for a millennia and be just as strong as the black oxide.

[Tintop]

clear nail polish, cheap, easily removable, easy to spot apply. 

[simon#42]

how much practice and set up time do you have planned before the first meeting matt ?

[754]

clear nail polish, cheap, easily removable, easy to spot apply. 

That or clear spray paint should get them through at least a season..

 If you don't live by the ocean.l