Author Topic: Transistorized ignition, points style. First ones are ready! (Read 81046 times)

Since the setup is anticipated to be sensitive to slightly dirty breaker points, does this mean it is likely to quit working as the points accumulate some "grunge" in normal service, or if they get slightly damp in a downpour? Now THAT would be a bummer!

The kind of "dirt" that is a problem is the black-looking carbon left after points pit from arcing. This is a non-conductive oxide that uses the initial surge current of the coil and condensor to "punch through" to make the Kettering cycle work again. It's one of the little-understood secrets to this brilliant design that's stood the test of time.

Wet points probably won't bother anything with this amp, but spraying a little LPS-1 on them when clean and new will probably keep them that way until the bike's frame rusts away, years from now. I did experience some RPM limitations (racing conditions) with LPS-1, but on the street it was (is) great stuff. The polymer won't part fast enough above about 100 Hz, so spark begins to fall off above 8000 RPM with that stuff.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #113 on:** January 03, 2007, 11:22:24 pm »

All technical jargon aside, I wanty!

750goes · « **Reply #114 on:** January 03, 2007, 11:26:53 pm »

Pole smoking again eh Terry

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #115 on:** January 04, 2007, 12:24:36 am »

Quote from: 750goes on January 03, 2007, 11:26:53 pm

Pole smoking again eh Terry

Don't you start on me Charlie, who was it who tried to sneak around behind me to win HM's favors? Geez, you're the only bloke I know who's got stretch marks around your mouth, ha ha!

I remember saying to Geoff that I thought I could smell sperm, and he just replied, "Nah mate, Charlie lives nearby, he probably just burped!"

750goes · « **Reply #116 on:** January 04, 2007, 12:59:08 am »

Terry, you really have a disturbed mind........when you go to the US, please take a BIG jar of vaseline, your lips will need it from all the chafing in the big windy city (New York)...or is that Chicago....

Have they finally allowed you in on a Green Card or has George Dubbya Shrub invited you for a BBQ???

Deltarider · « **Reply #117 on:** January 04, 2007, 01:46:28 am »

The K2543 transistor ignition is a Velleman kit. It is well known here in Holland and Belgium, comes with chrystalclear instructions and costs € 14,75. After I tested one on my 1978 504 Peugeot, I assembled a set for my CB 500 Four (You need two, ofcourse). Having the scheme now, I bought the electronic components (they're real cheap) and mounted them as smart as possible on some experimentboard. With improvisation I've managed to house it in a little aluminium box and located that behind the rubber strap that holds the battery in place. It's been on my bike for 8 years now and it has not failed me once. With this set you disconnect the condensors and use the points as trigger. Points will not pit anymore. I have not changed them in 40.000 km. That supplied heatsink is exagerated. To have the Darlingtontransistors cooled I simply mounted them with their backside against box and lid. Works fine. A scheme you will find on http://suzuki88.webcindario.com/fotos/fm17-1g.jpg For a test ride I located the box behind the right side cover, to be precise: behind the rubber strap that holds the battery in place. That's halfway the coils and the breakerpoints. The tension of the strap pulls the box firmly against the battery. The battery itself is relatively vibrationfree due to some rubber parts in the bottom of the batteryholder. It proofed to be a perfect location. After testing it, I have never bothered to mount it somewhere else. After riding through half of Europe (sometimes over very bumpy roads), I can assure you that that strip never comes loose. My box has never moved a millimeter.

Klark Kent · « **Reply #118 on:** January 04, 2007, 09:10:40 am »

nice work. you wanna send one to baltimore for testing- if you think europe is bumpy youve never seen the pot holes in baltmore
-KK

HondaMan · « **Reply #119 on:** January 04, 2007, 06:54:17 pm »

Thanks for posting it, Sierck; I wanted these guys to see it, too.
Nice method: the CB500 guys can use this with the one I'm building, too, if they want.

Klark Kent · « **Reply #120 on:** January 04, 2007, 07:49:17 pm »

im running a 550K1 so i am taking notes from both of yo, so the more you two post about what you are doing the better. you are both people i can learn from.
-KK

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #121 on:** January 04, 2007, 10:38:50 pm »

I suspect that both of these whizz kids are running parallel, KK.

HondaMan · « **Reply #122 on:** January 05, 2007, 07:09:37 pm »

The unit that Sierck has modified dates back to the early 1970s, when it was a kit. Apparently in Europe, it still is a kit. There are better parts to use today, but the old ones will still work just fine, if someone wants to hand-build one like he has! Good for him!

Terry: which Dyna coils do you have? Are they the "green" ones? And, what spark wires are you running, are you using resistor caps or resistor plugs?

Reason I ask: while I'm waiting for the circuit boards to arrive, I can test a setup similar to yours ahead of time. I have some "green" Dyna 3-ohm coils. They should be run with either resistor spark wires or resistor plug caps or resistor plugs (at least one of the above) to generate best peak voltage. I'd like to test with your setup here first so there won't be any unusual surprises.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #123 on:** January 05, 2007, 10:48:02 pm »

G'Day Mark, I've got a pair of new Dyna 3 Ohm green coils with 7mm solid copper cored wire, and NGK plug caps, but I dunno if they're "resistor" or "non-resistor" caps? Sorry mate, but by now you've probably guessed that to me, auto electronics is "white mans magic", ha ha! Cheers, Terry.

Deltarider · « **Reply #124 on:** January 06, 2007, 01:02:30 am »

Let me confess that I know little about electronics. On my 1976 500 Four I run the green 3 Ohm Dynacoils. They take a bit more power compared to the original coils that rate about 4,5 Ohms. The combination 3 Ohm coils with the original ignition setup will cause your points to pit more. Any transistorized ignition overcomes that problem.
As fas as I know (not much) resistors - wheather they are in caps, plugs or wires, are ONLY there to prevent interference on radio's. By the way, that's enough reason to have them. I have never, never understood what good they can do for the spark. They make it more difficult for the spark to fly. If that's what you want, why not widen the sparkplug gap a bit?

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Author Topic: Transistorized ignition, points style. First ones are ready! (Read 81046 times)