Topic: 1976 gl1000 front end swap

[suprafabs]

Does anyone know if I can use CB750A alloy front wheel fit on direct bolt on gl1000 front end? ussing the gl1000 rotors.

**Think I might of miss explained my issue. I purchased a dual disc kit from goddfrey for my 76 cb750k but due to the right fork not being symmetrical and what not, I have spent numerous hours and headaches and still cant get my breaks to work. So today i decided to look into buying GL1000 front end this way would be a more straight forward way of setting up dual disc. but Im also in this predicament where i just bought cb750A wheels and i was wondering if i did upgrade to the GL front end, could i still use the Wheels? or do i need GL front wheel?**

[flybox1]

Is lack of lever pressure all you're fighting with, or still trying to get the caliper flush with the rotors?

[riffman12]

wait so you want to ditch the dual disk idea completely? But keep the GL1000 front end?

I think in order to do it properly, you need the front end including brake calipers, rotors, and front wheel from the GL.

If lever feel was the biggest issue, you probably just need a bigger master cylinder. For $45 you could be up and running:

http://4into1.com/80s-style-honda-complete-brake-master-cylinder/

[rickmoore24]

I wouldn't use the stock master cylinder from the CB750 for a dual front brake setup. Use the 'Wang MC or a more modern one.    Rick.

[suprafabs]

i bought an universal one 14mm size

[Bankerdanny]

GL1000 expert Randaak recommends the 14mm for single disk bikes. For GL1000's his aftermarket MC upgrade is a 5/8" piston version (about 16mm)

[rickmoore24]

Yesss^^^^^

[suprafabs]

Think I might of miss explained my issue. I purchased a dual disc kit from goddfrey for my 76 cb750k but due to the right fork not being symmetrical and what not, I have spent numerous hours and headaches and still cant get my breaks to work. So today i decided to look into buying GL1000 front end this way would be a more straight forward way of setting up dual disc. but Im also in this predicament where i just bought cb750A wheels and i was wondering if i did upgrade to the GL front end, could i still use the Wheels? or do i need GL front wheel?

[flybox1]

I used his rotors as well for my K8's dual disc setup, and had a few headaches, but managed to get everything worked out.
if you still want to give this a go, post up a few pictures of each brake arm setup, and be really detailed with what you are struggling with.
We might be able to see something...

[suprafabs]

thanks, you guys are awesome

[seanbarney41]

despite the gl1000 frontend swap being a bolt on, there are several headaches to overcome before it's gonna work on your 750, so its probably just as easy to figure out whats wrong with the brakes you got now.

71-78k, 75-76f, A model cb750's and 75-76GL1000 front wheels all use the exact same hub

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

With a GL front end, you will use the GL calipers/brackets and rotors.  The GL wheel hub is identical to the 750/550 but the offset of the brake rotors on the GL rotors is different.  The GL rim is aluminum (which has less unsprung mass).  You can use either the GL rim or the steel 750 rim.  If you use your stock steel-rimmed 750 wheel, you will still need to bolt up the GL brake rotors.  If you have the option of using a complete GL wheel with rotors, use it.

[Terry in Australia]

The GL1000 front end swap is an easy conversion, and the benefits are way better front brakes than a twin disc conversion using OEM CB750 calipers and discs with less unsprung weight and stiffer, better damped 37mm forks. Your CB750 front wheel will bolt straight up to the GL1000 discs, but from memory you'll need the GL1000 axle and spacers.

I had to cut up the gauge bracket for both the CB750 K6 gauges and GL1000 gauge bracket to adapt them to the GL1000 forks, but that wasn't a hard job and it looks "factory". I used the GL1000 fender bracket with a CB750F "Shorty" fender riveted to it, because I didn't like the GL1000 fender, which would have otherwise worked fine. The GL1000 handlebar clamps are angled back toward the rider which reduces the stretch forwards, which might be good for riders with short arms.

I'm built like a gorilla so the wider "pullback" style bars make for a more upright seating position than I prefer, so eventually I'll put some lower bars on it. Still happy with the conversion though, and wouldn't change it back to the stock setup. Cheers, Terry.

[suprafabs]

straight bolt on? no customize headaches

[Terry in Australia]

No problems mate, a little "McGuiver-ing" with the gauge and fender brackets, and I vaguely remember an issue with the tapered roller bearings (I did this a couple of years ago) but it wasn't hard at all. Cheers, Terry.

[754]

I have a set of GL rotors to sell, cept i am in Canada
50 bux plus shipping.

[seanbarney41]

the big issue is the gl forks are too long and the springs are way too stiff...there are ways around these issues but they are not necessarily cheap or easy...plus whatever old ass frontend you get will probly need calipers rebuilt which is not cheap...you just have to decide what you want... I think it was worth it but not as easy as I thought

[Terry in Australia]

the big issue is the gl forks are too long and the springs are way too stiff...there are ways around these issues but they are not necessarily cheap or easy...plus whatever old ass frontend you get will probly need calipers rebuilt which is not cheap...you just have to decide what you want... I think it was worth it but not as easy as I thought

How much longer are the GL forks Sean? I've never noticed any difference in length between them and CB750 forks? Maybe they're not as "sagged" as CB750 forks with those stiffer springs? My GL forks had Progressive springs when I bought them, so I haven't noticed any over-stiffness. Cheers, Terry.

[seanbarney41]

the big issue is the gl forks are too long and the springs are way too stiff...there are ways around these issues but they are not necessarily cheap or easy...plus whatever old ass frontend you get will probly need calipers rebuilt which is not cheap...you just have to decide what you want... I think it was worth it but not as easy as I thought

How much longer are the GL forks Sean? I've never noticed any difference in length between them and CB750 forks? Maybe they're not as "sagged" as CB750 forks with those stiffer springs? My GL forks had Progressive springs when I bought them, so I haven't noticed any over-stiffness. Cheers, Terry.

It depends....and that brings up another issue.  There is about 1" of length built into the GL top triple with the way the stem clamp is offset above the tube clamps.  I think the tubes are only 1" longer than 71-76 cb750k tubes.  These pictures do not show the height offset very well but it can be seen.
DSCN0719 by Sean Barney, on Flickr
DSCN0721 by Sean Barney, on Flickr
I initially hoped that the old springs that where in my gl frontend where worn out enough to work ok on a cb750.  No such luck.  The ride was rock hard and with almost no sag with my 190 lb ass on the bike turn in was similar to a '68 coupe de ville.  I did ride the bike several times like that and it wasn't un-rideable, just not what I was looking for.

I fixed all this with two expensive purchases...first I had SlikWilli420 whittle me up a new top triple clamp.
DSCN0902 by Sean Barney, on Flickr
DSCN0907 by Sean Barney, on Flickr
and I installed custom length and rate springs from Race Tech along with their cartridge emulators.
CB750 Four Cafe Racer 112 by Sean Barney, on Flickr
so all told now I got over $600 into making a "bolt on" front end that I got for free work.  The bike does now handle excellent.

[somesuch]

From memory, the GL1000 forks are about an 1.5" longer.....but this is a good thing...

Stock CB750 runs out of ground clearance pretty early in the turns, raising the front end ~3/4" (fork tubes can be slid up in the triple clamps the remaining ~3/4") and using slightly longer shocks fixes that.

ALL dimensions are VERY approximate 

This is a very easy conversion and even the stock GL1000 front end works way better than the CB750 "stock" dual disk as Terry said.... less unsprung weight, stiffer 37mm forks, 4 bolt axle clamps, etc....

The GL1000 forks, when improved by hard anodizing the lowers to reduce stiction, and an adaptation of some sort of a "gold valve" cartridge emulators, work really  well while looking "proper" on the CB.

The front spring rate was OK for me on those setups with longer shocks....I forget what I had for springs in the back

[754]

Heaven forbid we have to put money into improving our bikes handling, i bet some have run as is.
Not the end of the world spending money on a bike, the GL upgrade,has a lot going for it..

[seanbarney41]

I totally agree Frank.  Obviously, I enjoy working and spending on my bikes.  I just wanted to point out that a quick, easy, low budget effort may not get you where you want to be.  I will also add that just slapping the gl front end on and riding will net you huge improvements in stability, braking, and a rock solid feel.

[Terry in Australia]

Yeah, as much as I like the look of your custom top triple clamp Sean, I'm trying to understand why you needed it in the first place?

Same for the racetech cartridge emulators, I've had no issues with the standard damping, (a lot can be achieved with just adding a different weight oil) and while I can always see the positives in being able to fine tune your damping, (I am a gadget nut too) it's not something that I think critical, so really, a 100 dollar set of Progressive springs is about all anyone would need, and they'd need them even if they kept their OEM forks, after 40 years.

Just to add to the mix, I had a very cool S&W air kit for a set of GL1000 forks that I installed at the same time I fitted them, basically to take up any sag and to get that plush "air ride" feel that I enjoyed so much in my 1986 GL1200 Interstate that of course came with air assisted suspension from the factory, and I was surprised last weekend when checking the frame number that after 2 years since I installed them, they're still holding air! Yep, it looks like it's lost a couple of psi since 2014, but that's not bad, at all.

[seanbarney41]

Terry, I didnt need that stuff, but without it, I think the stock cb stuff can be made to work nearly as well...err except for the brakes

[suprafabs]

bike seems to be breaking and i got it where there's less wheel drag, waiting to see if a member with same mods has some pics to compare alignment.  In the mean while, im going to pick up a 16mm piston to see if I can get better feel. thanks guys for direction. If I still cant get it or feel comfortable with it, I might just due the GL1000 conversion since my CB750K hub is same as early GL1000.
Any of you know a good source to fish around for GL parts?

thanks guys!

[Terry in Australia]

Here you go mate, $29.95? Bargain!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-GL1000-Goldwing-CB750A-Hondamatic-Front-Forks-Triple-Clamp-CB750K-/191855140555?hash=item2cab751ecb:g:L2EAAOSwUuFW2JbR&vxp=mtr

[Ricky_Racer]

Sumpthin' wrong there, Terry.... Single disk brake. 

RR

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Any 75-77 GL1000 front should work.

The GL fork tubes are about 1.5" longer.  You can get shorter fork tubes from Forking by Frank (like I did) or extend the extra length through the trees.  I also had my forks rebuilt and sprung with a lower spring rate.  Initially the ride was overly-stiff since the GL is a much heavier bike.  The front was so firm that the ride was harsh and the front would feel like it almost skipped over ruts when turning.  It handled much better after sending it to Matt Wiley at Race Tech.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I did not use the stock GL top triple tree, since I was using clip-ons.  I picked up an after market top clamp from DCC.  I also did not use my stock gauge cluster, but an Acewell unit.